JohnnyK Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 Well, I finally finished the Trumpeter Ford GT 40 MK II and it was a beast of a build at 1/12 scale. I started building it in December 2012. My wife bought me the model as a Christmas present. You can see how much larger it is than a 1/25 scale model. I stopped building car models in 1966. This was my third car model that I built since I restarted building models in 2012. I built it as a daily driver, instead of a race car. This kit has a bad rap for looking toy-like, so I added a number of aftermarket detailing to the model: The carburetor in the kit looked like a Quadrajet carb. Ford only used Holley carbs, so I found a Holley double pumper on ebay. The brass carburator barrels are brass rings that I found at Hobby Lobby. The tires in the kit are too tall and square in profile with the wrong tread pattern, so they were replaced by tires from Icon Automotive I used braided lines from Pro Tech and fittings from Detail Master. I removed all of the plastic bolt heads on the engine and suspensiion and replaced them with real steel bolts from Scale Hardware. Photo etched parts and two seats came from K.A. Models I wrapped the steering wheel in electrical tape to simulate leather and used switches from K.A. Models. I replaced the fuse box located in front of the passanger with a radio with knob. The floor is flocked and the interior door panels are a material used to repair torn jeans that I found at Hobby Lobby. I used white glue to simulate weld joints on the exhaust headers and used clear blue and yellow to simulate overheated header pipes. To prevent the flexible break cooling hoses from kinking, I inserted soft earplugs in them before I bent them. Worked just fine. I uded electrical tape to simulate hoses on the cooling pipes. You can see all of the photo-etched detailing at the front of the car. The finish of the car is composed of one coat of primer, one coat of Testors’ Black, one coat of Testors’ Flame Red and finally multiple coats of Testors’ Revving Red. All the paint came from rattle cans. I used Future as a final gloss coat. This was the first time I used Future as a final coat. IMHO, it looks too thick and not shinny as I would like. It also micro-cracked in some areas. I probably will not use Future as a top coat again. I am really pleased with the final result; however, the car seems to sit too high off the ground. Not much I could do about that. This build, with all of the subassemblies and photo etched detailing, really wore me out. I think that my next build will be an airplane.
Phildaupho Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 All your added detail really enhances the model. I like it a lot.
Cato Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) You've built a really attractive one and a pleasant change from the decaled race winners. For your next one (please do) you can lower the front ride height. You simply shim the lower a-arm between it and the spindle with a small washer. Pushes the wheel up into the fender. Brings it down almost 3mm. Here's mine: All your detail work is excellent; only let down by Trump's toy-like suspension bits. Next one scratch build your own. If you choose to, you can strip off the Future by wipes with Windex. Then I'd polish the paint with grits for gloss. Overall a great looking model. EDIT: The side Lexans were held on by Dzus or rivets in an aluminum frame. Edited April 15, 2015 by Cato
atomicholiday Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 Super-nice build. That engine is just killer.
Harry P. Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 There are a few nits I could pick, but I won't. Overall, you did a really nice job on a tough kit.
JohnnyK Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 There are a few nits I could pick, but I won't. Overall, you did a really nice job on a tough kit. Harry, I'm all for improving my modeling skills. What did you notice that I could improve? John
JohnnyK Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 Super-nice build. That engine is just killer. Thanks. The engine compartment is the highpoint of this car. It really needs a lot of detailing to visually pop. I wish that I kept track of how many hours I spent on detailing the engine compartment. It took hours and hours to get those braided hoses to look correct.
vamach1 Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) Fabulous at 40. Seriously - very nice work. I have done nothing on mine except open the box. I did notice the windshield and side windows on your build seem to not be flush with the body which I assume is just a characteristic of the kit. I'm going to test fit mine and may add some body color paint to the white glue to hold them in or black to replicate trim and/or sealer. oh - and ouch on the price of the tires - $68. Edited April 16, 2015 by vamach1
Harry P. Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Harry, I'm all for improving my modeling skills. What did you notice that I could improve? John You did such a nice job overall that calling out your "mistakes" seems awfully petty... but in the photo of the engine looking forward, you missed a few mold seam lines on the rear suspension parts, you could have added some more realistic bolt heads on the rear suspension arms to replace the kit connection points, and you should have sanded the tire treads to give them a more realistic look.
Kenny B Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 John, Very nice well detailed. I see why it took you 3 years to build. I sure would be proud to show her off. Well done. Kenny B.
aurfalien Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Wow, all I can say is wow! As I about about 2/3 done with my first build, I'm simply amazed at the craftsmen-ship. I love the subject matter.
JohnnyK Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) 484820_10202108227361525_2093488402_n.jpgFabulous at 40. Seriously - very nice work. I have done nothing on mine except open the box. I did notice the windshield and side windows on your build seem to not be flush with the body which I assume is just a characteristic of the kit. I'm going to test fit mine and may add some body color paint to the white glue to hold them in or black to replicate trim and/or sealer. oh - and ouch on the price of the tires - $68. 35500_10152139826515049_311957675_n.jpg None of the clear parts fit correctly. All of them were too large for their openings. I had to sand each clear part in order to make them fit, the windshield being the worst. I never got the windshield to fit properly. The doors would not open properly when I taped the windshield tight against the "A" posts. Bad quality on the part of the manufacturer. Edited April 16, 2015 by JohnnyK
JohnnyK Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 You did such a nice job overall that calling out your "mistakes" seems awfully petty... but in the photo of the engine looking forward, you missed a few mold seam lines on the rear suspension parts, you could have added some more realistic bolt heads on the rear suspension arms to replace the kit connection points, and you should have sanded the tire treads to give them a more realistic look. I tried to sand the tire treads to make them look more "used", but I just could not get them to look "worn". Maybe I should have used a lower grit sandpaper. Any thoughts?
Cato Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 My door glass and windscreen fit perfectly into the molded reliefs for them. As well as the headlight covers. I used the kit tires and ran them against a sanding drum. They are almost slicks now.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now