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Model A Vintage Racer, updated photo links


MGL

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This is the vintage racer from the Mod Rod reissue. I used the flat head cylinder head instead of the OHV because after extensive research of about 3 minutes it looks like the OHV conversion would have been fairly rare based on the era that this thing would have been built. Also, the exhaust seems all wrong but I do like the way it looks. I'm hoping Bill Engwer or another knowledgeable member can give us some more information on what this might be based on. I added 2 pipes so the center cylinders could breath, throttle linkage, fuel line and filter, plug wires, and laced the wheels and cut the floor out of the fenders so it wouldn't be an empty cavity underneath.

The box art:

amt-1929-ford-model-a-roadster-mod-rod-double-kit-build-two-complete-cars-white-3

IMG 1549a

IMG 1548a

IMG 1546a

IMG 1544a

IMG 1554a

IMG 1553a

IMG 1552a

IMG 1550a

Thanks for looking.

Edited by MGL
Replacing photos
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Man, that is a knockout. I've never seen that box-art version of that kit done before, and yours looks really fine.

You were absolutely right-on in adding the two center exhaust branches, as the stock A engine does indeed have all 4 of its exhaust ports on the side, arranged as you have it.

                                              Image result for Ford model-A engine

The short branches you added are very like what an early tuner might have done, as header design was only in its infancy then, and the real science, though being investigated, wasn't widely distributed.

The AMT version of the Riley 2-port head setup (the optional parts you elected to not use) is a little vague and inaccurate (as we've gone into here on occasion) and it was relatively rare and expensive 

Great model. :D

 

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Fantastic model. I'm actually building the same thing inspired by the same box art. I used the engine and frame from the Revell 29 Woody - it has a really nice Riley head.  

Your wheels are really awesome. I used the kit wheels and they, well, kind of suck - even after hours of sanding and thinning the spokes. 

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The AMT version of the Riley 2-port head setup (the optional parts you elected to not use) is a little vague and inaccurate (as we've gone into here on occasion) and it was relatively rare and expensive 

Bill, in the little bit of research I did I found this article https://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2015/07/28/for-prewar-speed-enthusiasts-the-roof-ohv-conversion-is-tops/ about a Roof OHV conversion that intrigued me. I hope to someday duplicate this including his drip oiling system.

 

I used the kit wheels and they, well, kind of suck - even after hours of sanding and thinning the spokes. 

 What technique did you use to lace the wheels, they are outstanding?

I assembled the wheel half's then marked the center point of the spokes on the front and back of the hubs and inside the rims, then worked one set of spokes at a time (front and two corresponding back spokes). I cut three spokes out, smoothed the rim and hub, drilled through the rim and into the hub, and slid beading wire in. Before sliding the wire all the way in I put a small dab of CA glue on the end of the wire going to the hub and than another small dab on the wire still outside the rim then slid it the rest of the way in. I only worked one set of spokes at a time and only worked every third set  working my way around the wheel so at any time the hub still had most of the spokes holding it in place. After it was done I trimmed all the ends and filed the inside of the rim into shape. It only took about 45 minutes a wheel while I was watching TV. One thing to remember since the back spokes cross, in order to stay consistent think of them as left and right from the rim side and always cross the same one over the other one.

 

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