Masking Tape Help

[bugman9317]

I wanted to see if anyone can give me some hints or anything to help with masking of for paint. I am working on a 1970 Buick GSX hood and this will be the third time in the Purple Pond. Originally I thought I would only need to mask off for the hood scoops and the main black on the hood and then use the decal for the center arrow. Then I realized the decal that matched the paint pretty good would not sit down when I tried to apply it. I am running into where the tape does not lift off cleanly so if anyone has any tips I would appreciate it. This time I tried BMF but ran into the same problem as the Tamaiya tape.

[Snake45]

I think we all just had this conversation...

Big respect for trying to keep the yellow surrounds on the hood scoops on that GSX. Almost nobody does that, or even tries. In fact, trying to figure out how to do that has kept me from finishing my painted, polished-out GSX for about 20 years now. Someday I'll figger out how to do it.

[astroracer]

Bleed under is hard to control, especially in small tight areas like those scoops. You really have to take your time and get your masking to lay down perfectly. THEN, before spraying any color, shoot a couple of coats of CLEAR over the masking. If there is going to any bleed under the clear will bleed and seal the leak. Now spray your color. The clear should seal up the masking and it will disappear when you put the final clear coats on.

Mark

[Jon Haigwood]

I have been fighting with the paint on this Hemi Hydro boat for awhile. Trying to get some good edges on the blue sections. After several drownings in the "Pond". I ended up with using some old pinstripe tape that I have had laying around for some years.

I start with Autoair Pearl White and then a coat of intercoat  clear (Autoair 4030) , lay down the pinstripe tape and then another light coat of 4030. Then sprayed the Blue Pearl (also Autoair) and another light coat of 4030. Now after it dries (and I touch up where some blue slipped thru) it will be cleared then polished.

The pinstripe tape leaves nice clean edges and no residue.

 

 

Edited August 15, 2017 by Jon Haigwood

[Ace-Garageguy]

If you're very good at laying things out on paper, and then cutting them accurately and cleanly, you can also make custom masking templates from "frisket" material. It is available to work well with different paint products, and avoids the problem of wrinkling and subsequent lifting with bleed-under you encounter with masking tapes.

Another option, again only viable if you have very good fine motor control of your hands, is to use a "liquid mask" that is painted on, with a very fine brush used to sharply define edges.

[bugman9317]

Thanks guys. I do have some pinstripe tape that I will try and I'll put a mist of clear down before the color. Hopefully this will be the last dip in the pond.. I hate to just paint them black because it will bother the heck out of me knowing they should be the yellow.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I'll bet you're using enamel paint.

Enamel dries much slower giving it a lot more time to seep into all kinds of nooks and crannies, especially if it's sprayed on heavy.

If you're going to use enamel, spray the first coat or 2 lightly.

That way it won't seep under the tape as easily & it will seal up the tape edges before the final wet coat.

I never have any bleed under issues with lacquer paints & Tamiya tape.

I painted the fine pinstripes & FORD lettering on the tailgate of my '63 Ford with zero issues using lacquer & Tamiya tape & foil for masking.

 

Steve

 

Edited August 15, 2017 by StevenGuthmiller

[bugman9317]

I'll bet you're using enamel paint.

Enamel dries much slower giving it a lot more time to seep into all kinds of nooks and crannies, especially if it's sprayed on heavy.

If you're going to use enamel, spray the first coat or 2 lightly.

That way it won't seep under the tape as easily & it will seal up the tape edges before the final wet coat.

I never have any bleed under issues with lacquer paints & Tamiya tape.

 

Steve

Yea its enamel. I had a bottle of MM Classic black left over that I figured I would use up. I'll try the clear coat and light coats of the black and hopefully it comes out good..

[StevenGuthmiller]

Yea its enamel. I had a bottle of MM Classic black left over that I figured I would use up. I'll try the clear coat and light coats of the black and hopefully it comes out good..

That's part of the problem with enamel.

to get a nice smooth, shiney finish, a fairly heavy coat is required leaving you open to runs, sags & bleed under.

Lighter coats can sometimes lead to orange peel.

I wish you luck though.

 

Steve

Edited August 15, 2017 by StevenGuthmiller

[bugman9317]

I think I am going to stop at the LHS and pick up some lacquer before I redo it.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I think I am going to stop at the LHS and pick up some lacquer before I redo it.

Just be aware that lacquer doesn't play well with enamel as a rule, so if you plan on spraying lacquer over an enamel painted hood.......don't!

 

Steve

[bugman9317]

 

Just be aware that lacquer doesn't play well with enamel as a rule, so if you plan on spraying lacquer over an enamel painted hood.......don't!

 

Steve

Thanks, I wonder if that may be some of the problem. The base yellow is auto lacquer. I thought the two were ok together as long as they were dry. 

[Ace-Garageguy]

 

Thanks, I wonder if that may be some of the problem. The base yellow is auto lacquer. I thought the two were ok together as long as they were dry. 

Enamel over lacquer is usually safe (depending on several factors).

Lacquer over enamel is asking for lifting, wrinkling, etc.

Enamels also often have a "recoat window" that varies from paint to paint, and with temperature, humidity, etc.

The general rule of thumb is that you can recoat enamel with enamel before 1 hour's drying, or after 48...but this needs to be verified experimentally for each paint you use.

Shoot enamel over uncured enamel too soon, you'll probably get wrinkling too.

[StevenGuthmiller]

 

Thanks, I wonder if that may be some of the problem. The base yellow is auto lacquer. I thought the two were ok together as long as they were dry. 

Enamel is fine over lacquer, just don't reverse it.

 

Steve