mnagatani Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 The "Roach Coach" is currently being printed as we speak. Once a model is finished on my end there is a 7-10 day turn around time for me to receive it back. It is scheduled to arrive at my place around the 20th I'll post up the pics. The following images are renders of the model. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 Simply amazing ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Very interesting. What scale?I have always had a plan to do one in 1/12 scale using the Tamiya Honda RA F1 kit as the donor. The Dan Gurney Olsenite Egale works for the 1/25 scale. Are you going to be selling these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddyfink Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 (edited) Holy Smoke! That is awesome!! https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ot-40-years-ago-the-roach-show-concept.547760/ Edited October 16, 2017 by Daddyfink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Cool. I'm curious how you are going to do the "eyes". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtx6970 Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 I like it. But can only image the difficulty to make everything else for this Did this thing even run ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnagatani Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 Just arrived today from Shapeway's is the Roach Coach in 1:25 and 1:18. With regard to the bubble I made one version for the larger one and will make a couple adjustments. Currently the plan is to have them vacuum formed. So now we have the print set its a matter of shrinking down the bubble a bit so the vacuum will form to the correct tolerance. Hard part is over, now it just a matter of some tweeking! I will have these available to see at the Nov 5th "Spirit of Speed" show in Pomona along with the 1:8 Topolino and 1:24 Stilettto Show Rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDO Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 (edited) That's pretty cool. Would you be able to help builders with reference info to finish it up?This and the Stiletto are awesome...and the Fiat, too! Edited October 23, 2017 by LDO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroracer Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 (edited) That's pretty cool. Would you be able to help builders with reference info to finish it up?You have to bury it primer. Then sand it to smooth out the texture and all of the "resolution transitions" you can see in the last three pics. That's the hard part, priming and sanding enough to hide the printing discrepancies but not so much you destroy the detail in the part. The 3D printed material is very soft and sands much easier compared to styrene. It is also softer then most resins so you really have to go easy with it.Mark Edited October 24, 2017 by astroracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djflyer Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 One thing I found after some amount of research and inquiries is the most important first step with 3d printed in wsf (white strong flexible) is to SEAL it before any priming or painting. The 3D print process for wsf uses a laser to melt layers from powdered nylon, so not only does it have considerable texture, its also porous. Sealing can be done with thin super glue (best for small parts) or specified sealer like the one made by Smooth On. Some people have used sealers like Thompson's Water seal and it does work. Once the sealer is dry, hit it with 320 or 400 paper and then on to prime and paint. This sealing step saves quite a bit of time trying to get a smooth first surface with just priming and sanding.Just wanted to share that bit of info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnagatani Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 That's pretty cool. Would you be able to help builders with reference info to finish it up?This and the Stiletto are awesome...and the Fiat, too!My approach has been to sand the surface down starting with a 180 ish grit and move up to 1200-1500. Once you have sanded down the "grit" you are safe to go to a filler primer. From there the process is same as in body prep. I'll post up some pics tonight I did of the latest print that came out nice. Keep an eye out! So yes...a step by step process will important. For those attending the model car show on Nov 5th you can see the actual models at the table. I wanted to bring a finished print to show how it really looks feels. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnagatani Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 One thing I found after some amount of research and inquiries is the most important first step with 3d printed in wsf (white strong flexible) is to SEAL it before any priming or painting. The 3D print process for wsf uses a laser to melt layers from powdered nylon, so not only does it have considerable texture, its also porous. Sealing can be done with thin super glue (best for small parts) or specified sealer like the one made by Smooth On. Some people have used sealers like Thompson's Water seal and it does work. Once the sealer is dry, hit it with 320 or 400 paper and then on to prime and paint. This sealing step saves quite a bit of time trying to get a smooth first surface with just priming and sanding.Just wanted to share that bit of info.For the WSF I didn't seal anything as I went from dry sand to wet sand to primer..color....clear! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnagatani Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 You have to bury it primer. Then sand it to smooth out the texture and all of the "resolution transitions" you can see in the last three pics. That's the hard part, priming and sanding enough to hide the printing discrepancies but not so much you destroy the detail in the part. The 3D printed material is very soft and sands much easier compared to styrene. It is also softer then most resins so you really have to go easy with it.MarkYea...The key is to get a decent filler primer. I prefer the true automotive types as they are thicker. Good point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djflyer Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 For the WSF I didn't seal anything as I went from dry sand to wet sand to primer..color....clear! MikeI found with the wsf that sealing saved alot of sanding - the surface was almost smooth when dry - and could use a less thick primer and didn't damage finer detail. I have heard that some people have gone without it and your results certainly prove that's possibleHow soon will this and the other 3D prints you have shown be available for purchase? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnagatani Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 Good I found with the wsf that sealing saved alot of sanding - the surface was almost smooth when dry - and could use a less thick primer and didn't damage finer detail. I have heard that some people have gone without it and your results certainly prove that's possibleHow soon will this and the other 3D prints you have shown be available for purchase?Good question... for my brother and I we are concerned about making a quality product. As many of you know the "Roach" and "Sitletto" are at round one when it comes to quality check. We have already done a second version on the Stiletto based on feedback and the Roach will have another round of some adjustments. Shapeways right now is at minimum seven day turn around. Both versions will be at the show Nov 5th and I think from there we should have a pretty good idea when we will have ready to go for sale. Hope that answers your question. So a long story short early to mid November. Maybe earlier. I'll let you know without getting in trouble here on the board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDO Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 Good info, but by "finish it up", I meant build the chassis, drivetrain, interior, etc. Didn't that one have a Porsche race car engine? Or will it be a full kit? I'm definitely interested in getting one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnagatani Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 (edited) The Roach engine is a Granatelli Indy Car. I don't have all the details on hand, but it's out there. Building the body is the hard part for me. Finishing it will depend on the skill level. Is it possible to finish it up by scratch building it? Of course, but most of the general model building community can't finish it. It's my job to determine how much more I should make to cross that line to allow a builder to finish it. The roach and Stiletto were never made which poses a big challenge for any builder. Listening to feedback on what's needed past the body and listen to you guys. It's open for discussion on what else should be made for this one. I know one thing, the hard part is over which is to make the body and hopefully others agree. The body is the hardest thing to make especially this one. I have created many bodies from all makes and this one takes the cake! It's Alien! Mike Edited October 30, 2017 by mnagatani Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnagatani Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 Cool. I'm curious how you are going to do the "eyes".The going plan right now with the "eyes" is to make the the print of the eye just a bit smaller in scale and have them vacuum formed. I spoke with a vendor about making these and its really just a matter of getting him the print which have to be smoothed out and then he can run some sets of bubbles. I'll let you know as soon I get them done! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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