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64 Dodge D100 Pickup Pro Street


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2 hours ago, 2zwudz said:

Francis when you formed the rear wheel tubs did you use any heat to help form them around the socket??

thanks

mark

Hello Mark, I didn't used heat but I first wrap the plastic strip around a way smaller socket overnight to give it the shape I was looking for (to make the styrene more docile I would say). The following day I wrapped the strip around the wanted size socket and held it in place with a rubber band and I glued the flat piece on one side. When both tubs were done I glued them in the bed floor openings and made the final adjustments.

Hope this helpful, Francis

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On 2/25/2020 at 11:07 AM, JollySipper said:

I think that a patina'd look would suit this one! Something like the 'Fast and Loud" pickup....

patinadodge.jpg.251cd729627a522e65d3274cb21ce879.jpg

You'd probably get many different suggestions on color, as we have very diverse tastes on the board.....

That was a very cool truck, i love the patina on it.

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Hello Everyone,

After some testing I realized that the frame was too wide between the front wheels so I had to make some adjustments. I cutted the frame and main member to gain more room for the wishbones and get enough space to make sure the front wheels turn freely. I was also forced to modified the main member in order to get enough space for the oil pan.

That's the kind of issues that can be encountered when building a model from zero...

Scott: I do love this patina look too!

Chers, Francis

74b_Front_Suspension_Mod_1.JPG.0864f56184af5afbf86cd897f951bfa6.JPG74c_Front_Suspension_Mod_2.JPG.7204623d0c3b3bcf52560b18a3177270.JPG

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Hello to everybody,

This is a small update on the front direction and the next coming updates will be on mechanical aspect of the build. I want to push this as far I can before the nice season when the build will comes to a very slow progress (too much works all around the house)...

Cheers, Francis

Using a thick and hard electric sheath, I made grooves on the lathe to simulate the ribs on rubber boots for the Mustang II style direction. I turned the cutting tool at 45 degrees angle for this operation. I drilled on both ends to fit over the aluminum tube and the small brass tubes that connect with the direction arms.79_Rubber_Boots_Lathe.JPG.4af8cee96d3cd6b8e072c98465ccaca9.JPG

Boots on Mustang II style direction. The main body is made with 2 soft aluminum tubes (0.093’’ inserted inside a 0.125’’). The brass rod is 0.063’’ and move freely inside the main body. RB Motion rod ends will attach to the arms on direction components so the wheels will steer. I machined 2 mounting brackets on the milling using T6 aluminum.1097161161_79b_MustangII_Direction.JPG.5ac565b79581c38864812a6bbcd9de74.JPG

After some test fit I realized that the frame section between the front wheels was too wide (the wishbones pushes the wheels outside the front fenders… DOH!?!…) so I was forced to make some modification. I did cut the frame just after the cabin support brackets and before the radiator protection (end of front section of the frame). I also slice the main member (K member) and removed 0.180’’ to shorten the part. I re-glued the 2 parts of the frame and add plastic pieces to create 45 degrees angles to create the bents where the frame go toward the inside. Lot of work for a conception error but looks way better and more realistic that way. Note: This pic was taken earlier and the K member was modified to accept the oil pan (previous pics on last week last update)80_Front_Suspension_Mod.JPG.0ba5f99fdaa87d2f2f8b8ce3fa554c9e.JPG

Test fit (K member modified).860092872_80b_MustangII_Direction_Mock_1.JPG.533dacd1ee890712ac55794f04912781.JPG

Test fit (view from under).1422497508_80c_MustangII_Direction_Mock_2.JPG.cd021a750c0e79a1c762d22a6b51f3f0.JPG

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On 3/11/2020 at 6:29 AM, landman said:

Impressionnant M. Laflamme. Most of us will never get to your skill level but it sure is fun looking at your work. 

Merci M. St-Martin!

It all started with just a Dremel, a small drill bit set and the desire to do better next time! It's a fun hobby where each of us make things their own ways and is active on this forum to learn and share!

Thanks again for your visit and come back soon, Francis

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31 minutes ago, Codi said:

That steering rack turned out pretty slick Francis.  Been a while since I've checked out your updates.....it's looking very sharp.   cheers, tim

It's cool to see you back Tim and thanks for your comments!

That's not as extreme as your setup on the Bantam but I'm pretty happy the way that last part turned out. I will start posting pics of the drivetrain soon so feel free to check back!

Cheers, Francis

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Hello everyone!

As I promised in my last post the next coming updates subjects will be more oriented on mechanical aspect of the build and today's pics are for the radiator. All the radiators of my past built models were custom made (bottom, upper tanks and brackets) with photo etch mesh but I wanted to go further for the D100. This part is very visible and must be as nice as possible especially because it will be visible through the front grille valance and near the engine that is always a "hot spot" under the hood, so I decided to make it with brass and test my ability to weld complex components. As always, feel free to give me your comments on this one!

Cheers, Francis

Using a U shape brass channel from K&S I engraved the details for the upper radiator tank with a 0.031’’ end mill.81_Brass_Radiator_Mill_1.JPG.9e49ebfe61fe77480a8557f025e77644.JPG

Same piece but different view. The hole for the radiator filler neck is 0.062’’82_Brass_Radiator_Mill_2.JPG.1b8debfb96a7ed265d7405ed3f6daadd.JPG

Both ends are closed with brass flat pieces and welded using a resistance solder unit.83_Brass_Radiator_Soldering_1.JPG.c2acdb3c62b7b091c8b6f395ac63bbf1.JPG

The radiator frame is made with a 0.156’’ square brass tube sliced in the middle (thus producing 2 shallow U-shaped channels). 3 of the channels are welded together and attached to a square for perfect alignment.84_Brass_Radiator_Soldering_2.JPG.139c18ad7b94b693981138f555b01619.JPG

With one end still open I inserted 2 pieces of photo-etch radiator mesh and 2 pieces of standard square mesh in between in order to creates light blocking (we can however see through like the real one). I then closed the last end and welded it to complete the radiator heat exchanger portion.85_Brass_Radiator_Soldering_3.JPG.4b91cdffe6710992db66aed4ce618d8d.JPG

Both upper and lower tank welded including inlets, holes for transmission cooling plumbing option and drain plug.86_Brass_Radiator_Component.JPG.28f6e8ace461fdadd7482aa5ca872499.JPG

Mounting brackets made with 0.015’’ brass sheets folded at 90 degrees and welded to the radiator frame.87_Brass_Radiator_Final.JPG.7883008fe94cb3b2cdffae59992ef0ba.JPG

Final piece, the holes on mounting brackets are adjusted for the ones on the radiator support.88_Brass_Radiator_Final_2.JPG.77ebb2b84b73b799b9fc0eccaa85e048.JPG

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Now THAT'S a radiator.  I have that same screen photo etch but haven't used it yet Francis.  Really makes all the hard work on the shell stand out all that much more.  I chuckled at your soldering "jig"........effective for sure and very imaginative.  I'll try that one sometime myself. cheers, tim

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13 hours ago, CabDriver said:

That radiator is a work of art in itself - beautiful!

Thanks Jim! I'm pretty happy how it turns out and I think it's my best rendition of a radiator so far.

More difficult to work with than plastic however!

Cheers, Francis

12 hours ago, Scott8950 said:

Wow!! That Radiator is amazing

Thank you Scott, always a pleasure get your visit and comments!

Cheers, Francis

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2 hours ago, Codi said:

Now THAT'S a radiator.  I have that same screen photo etch but haven't used it yet Francis.  Really makes all the hard work on the shell stand out all that much more.  I chuckled at your soldering "jig"........effective for sure and very imaginative.  I'll try that one sometime myself. cheers, tim

Thank you for the positive comment on the radiator!

I owe you a lot for the inspiration so far and I'm very happy if you can find something useful from my build!

Cheers, Francis

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2 hours ago, gasser59 said:

OMG...put that in a frame and mount it on the wall in a museum because that is a real piece of art. This whole thread is one big How-To on creative and innovative model building.

Hello Brad and thanks for the superlative... I don't think it deserve to be on the wall of a museum but I do appreciate your enthusiasm on my thread!

More to come... Cheers, Francis

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1 hour ago, allford said:

I am just blown away by the workmen ship,You must have been a fine watch maker its just SUPER.

Thanks Raymond! I don't know if I was a watch maker in a past life but I do love wristwatches and all the precision of the swiss movements.

Keep "watching" and thanks again, Francis

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