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Posted

I need to add a couple thin styrene strips to the edges of a hood to widen it. Because of it being such a fragile glue point, and that it will have to be worked on for shaping, I was wondering what glue would be the strongest for this application. Liquid,  super,  epoxy ? Any input would be appreciated. 

Posted

If both the hood and strip are styrene then any liquid cement should do the trick.  Those cements actually dissolve the plastic's surfaces and "weld" the parts together.  The basically become a single piece. That should result in the strongest possible joint.  I like the Tamiya extra thin cement, and I would also wait couple of days before shaping or sanding the glued pieces (to allow for all the solvent to evaporate).

Posted (edited)

I would also use Tamiya extra thin. Rather than trying to glue two thin edges together, I lengthened this hood by glueing a wider strip flat to the back edge, forming a “T”. Once it was thoroughly dry, I filed and sanded the inside and outside down to the same thickness as the hood.

421BAFB8-5B77-48BB-B9FC-41393DDE50DB.jpeg

Edited by NOBLNG
Posted

Testors is just some MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) in a small bottle.  MEK evaporates fairly slowly. While that is desired in some instances I think here I would use a faster evaporating liquid cement. That is the cement both of us recommended. That cement evaporates much faster than MEK alone.

Posted

I do a lot of splicing and adding styrene to edges for better fit. I always use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. You can't beat it IMO. 

Posted

Yes, a methylene chloride cement would be best IMHO. Instead of cutting strips, glue your hood edge-on to a flat sheet of styrene and then carve it down to shape later. I'm planning to do exactly this to widen the hood of the AMT '55 Bel Air. 

Posted

Another vote for liquid. Also, I have found with using liquid glue due to the melt/weld of it, more often than not after proper sanding, no filler is needed.....

Posted
9 hours ago, tbill said:

Another vote for liquid. Also, I have found with using liquid glue due to the melt/weld of it, more often than not after proper sanding, no filler is needed.....

True, but I also experienced shrinkage (slight sink line) at the joint (I assume due to the solvent evaporating from the plastic joint).  That is why I recommend gluing the parts together, then waiting (few days) for all the solvent to evaporate, and only then sanding and finishing the part.

Posted
14 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

They make a quick setting version that is my favorite.

24B53611-7AE0-48AD-8D38-D60571E04B9C.jpeg

The quick setting is the best glue I have ever used, love it.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
3 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Kind of off topic here but instead of a new thread, need suggestions for a safe glue applicator that just dispences a tiny amount.

 

The brush in Tamiya's glue is very small.

Posted
3 minutes ago, 935k3 said:

The brush in Tamiya's glue is very small.

Yes, if you get a big drop on the end of it, just touch it to the inside of the bottle neck to drain off the excess. It works very well.

Posted
6 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Kind of off topic here but instead of a new thread, need suggestions for a safe glue applicator that just dispences a tiny amount.

 

For which specific glue?  There are dozen different adhesives out there, requiring different types of dispensers.

Posted

Peter I thought that I should mention what glue.  I like to use the Super Glue  brand sold at the Dollar Store.  Dries real fast but soooo many times I wind up with a drop of glue on a finger and invariably touch it on the paint Grrrr. Maybe I need to use a liquid glue but does it dry fast??

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

Peter I thought that I should mention what glue.  I like to use the Super Glue  brand sold at the Dollar Store.  Dries real fast but soooo many times I wind up with a drop of glue on a finger and invariably touch it on the paint Grrrr. Maybe I need to use a liquid glue but does it dry fast??

I have the same problem with super thin CA glue. There is NO WAY I can apply it from the bottle. First the nozzle is usually plugged and I have to open it with a pin. Then it will dispense way too much. I usually put a couple of drops in a bottle cap and use an applicator made from a thin piece of wire. I also made an applicator for the kicker from a large sewing needle that I ground the tip off of to make a tiny fork. It would likely work better than the wire for the glue also.? You can most likely buy special applicators at a hobby shop?

The Tamiya extra thin quick set will get your parts stuck together quite fast, but takes a fair while to completely evaporate and gain full strength. The medium or extra thick CA glues are easier to manage but also dry slow unless an accelerator is used.

What type of joints are you needing it to dry quickly for? Things like door handles, mirrors and wipers, or....?

8C78408C-4B3A-4B95-A3BC-7F56E67AA560.jpeg

Edited by NOBLNG
Posted

Greg I use a pointed toothpick the way you use the needle and as you said, the darn nozzle on the glue bottle stops up so yeah, gotta poke it with a needle.  

Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Peter I thought that I should mention what glue.  I like to use the Super Glue  brand sold at the Dollar Store.  Dries real fast but soooo many times I wind up with a drop of glue on a finger and invariably touch it on the paint Grrrr. Maybe I need to use a liquid glue but does it dry fast??

OK, Here is how I apply CA and accelerator in small amounts and in very controlled way.  Click on the arrow in the upper rigth to go right to my post (not to the start of the thread).  And it is "sewing", not"sawing" needles - silly typo!

 

Edited by peteski
Posted
On 10/14/2020 at 7:11 AM, NOBLNG said:

They make a quick setting version that is my favorite.

24B53611-7AE0-48AD-8D38-D60571E04B9C.jpeg

Are these a strong glue? How fast do they dry?

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