*1950 3100 Chevy Pickup*

[Zippi]

I was afraid that using any chemicals would soften the glue so I decided to just sand it down.  It's now a heck of a lot better.  Looks like a lot of orange peel so not sure to just leave it or not.

[Kromolly]

I find rattle cans very tough to use for a quality paint job on a body.  After changing over to an air brush I was amazed at the difference.  In an earlier post you mentioned the bed slats.  On my '50 Chevy PU that I built (pic below), I painted the wood and then masked the bed & cut the masking away from the slats and shot body color.  You could do the same with chrome paint, or use bare metal foil on the slats.

[Zippi]

52 minutes ago, Kromolly said:

I find rattle cans very tough to use for a quality paint job on a body.  After changing over to an air brush I was amazed at the difference.  In an earlier post you mentioned the bed slats.  On my '50 Chevy PU that I built (pic below), I painted the wood and then masked the bed & cut the masking away from the slats and shot body color.  You could do the same with chrome paint, or use bare metal foil on the slats.

Thanks for the idea on the bed.  I've been looking at an airbrush and spray booth.  I keep my 1949 Chevy pickup in the garage so I'd hate to spray anything in the garage.  With a booth would you still need to cover e studying up?  Have any more pics of your truck?

[Kromolly]

Here are a few more shots of my truck.  I built this about 25 years ago.  The paint is Testors Model Master enamel, air brushed and polished.  My biggest challenge has always been dust.  I can lay down a glossy paint with the air brush, but inevitably something will float into the paint and I need to polish it out.  I've started covering the model immediately with a plastic tub and I think that might help.  My spray booth (homemade) is inside the house.  I can spray with rattle cans (I use them for primer and engine, chassis parts etc. where I'm not looking for such a smooth, glossy finish) and my wife can't even smell it across the room.  I posted my homemade paint booth in the "How To" or FAQ section... I'm not sure how to go find that link while I am writing a post.

[Zippi]

19 minutes ago, Kromolly said:

Here are a few more shots of my truck.  I built this about 25 years ago.  The paint is Testors Model Master enamel, air brushed and polished.  My biggest challenge has always been dust.  I can lay down a glossy paint with the air brush, but inevitably something will float into the paint and I need to polish it out.  I've started covering the model immediately with a plastic tub and I think that might help.  My spray booth (homemade) is inside the house.  I can spray with rattle cans (I use them for primer and engine, chassis parts etc. where I'm not looking for such a smooth, glossy finish) and my wife can't even smell it across the room.  I posted my homemade paint booth in the "How To" or FAQ section... I'm not sure how to go find that link while I am writing a post.

Nice looking AD.  

[Kromolly]

I think I figured out how to put a link to a post into a new post.  Here's a link to my spraybooth build.  It may or may not be helpful.  I just happened to have the exhaust fan after a remodel, and free plywood, and too much time on my hands, apparently.  It does work very well, though.  Actually exceeds my expectations.

 

[slusher]

12 hours ago, Zippi said:

Thanks for the info.  How would I go about stripping the paint off?

Super clean sold at Walmart , put it in a plastic container and use rubber gloves getting it out  it will dry your skin out...

[Tom Geiger]

A few thoughts- I too have done a lot of wood beds. I dry brush them using a technique from Irv Arter. I can send you a pdf of the process. 

I recently bought a Pace spray booth for $250 shipped. It’s all very professionally done sheet metal. I’m very pleased with mine using spray cans. 

[kruleworld]

16 hours ago, Kromolly said:

I used to use Mr. Muscle oven cleaner but I haven't found that recently (haven't looked hard).  

Here's one i used, now called "Oven and BBQ cleaner". I bought a cake container and sprayed it. left for 24 hours and it came out 99%. i think it depends on the type of paint and how old it is.

DSCF9128 by aus_mus, on Flickr

DSCF9122 by aus_mus, on Flickr

[kruleworld]

16 hours ago, Kromolly said:

I used to use Mr. Muscle oven cleaner but I haven't found that recently (haven't looked hard).  

Here's one i used, now called "Oven and BBQ cleaner". I bought a cake container and sprayed it. left for 24 hours and it came out 99%. i think it depends on the type of paint and how old it is.

DSCF9128 by aus_mus, on Flickr

DSCF9122 by aus_mus, on Flickr

[kruleworld]

16 hours ago, Kromolly said:

I used to use Mr. Muscle oven cleaner but I haven't found that recently (haven't looked hard).  

Here's one i used, now called "Oven and BBQ cleaner". I bought a cake container and sprayed it. left for 24 hours and it came out 99%. i think it depends on the type of paint and how old it is.

DSCF9128 by aus_mus, on Flickr

[kruleworld]

16 hours ago, Kromolly said:

I used to use Mr. Muscle oven cleaner but I haven't found that recently (haven't looked hard).  

Here's one i used, now called "Oven and BBQ cleaner". I bought a cake container and sprayed it. left for 24 hours and it came out 99%. i think it depends on the type of paint and how old it is.

DSCF9128 by aus_mus, on Flickr

[Zippi]

Thanks for the idea's fellows.  Tom,  PM sent.  Thanks.  

Edited March 6, 2021 by Zippi

[Kromolly]

7 hours ago, kruleworld said:

Here's one i used, now called "Oven and BBQ cleaner". I bought a cake container and sprayed it. left for 24 hours and it came out 99%. i think it depends on the type of paint and how old it is.

DSCF9128 by aus_mus, on Flickr

Thank you Walter.  I'll look for that one.  I like the '65 Riviera.

[Zippi]

Thanks for all the advise fellows.  I got the plug wires installed this morning.  Wasn't really sure what to use to get the size that looked good.  Found some old telephone line that had red, black, and yellow wire inside.  I had to remove all the wires and redo them as the engine would not go back far enough to the firewall to install the fan.  It turned out ok I guess but it was tough to work with.  I gotta hand it to you guys that have been doing this for a while as what I've seen on this site is just amazing.      

[Kromolly]

Lookin' good.  Kudos on tackling the plug wires... you're a step ahead of me.  Looks like you got the orange to cover well on the engine.  There was an earlier discussion about primer.  I've gone to using black primer on engines because cast iron is dark.  The black gives good depth and any thin areas such as angles where sprayed paint can sometimes wick away will appear as shadows instead of highlights.  Just personal preference.  I'm with you, the work displayed on this site is incredible.  I've been out of the hobby for 25 years and back then it there wasn't much on the 'net.

[Zippi]

58 minutes ago, Kromolly said:

Lookin' good.  Kudos on tackling the plug wires... you're a step ahead of me.  Looks like you got the orange to cover well on the engine.  There was an earlier discussion about primer.  I've gone to using black primer on engines because cast iron is dark.  The black gives good depth and any thin areas such as angles where sprayed paint can sometimes wick away will appear as shadows instead of highlights.  Just personal preference.  I'm with you, the work displayed on this site is incredible.  I've been out of the hobby for 25 years and back then it there wasn't much on the 'net.

Thanks man.  I haven't build a model in over 50 years.  Boy have things changed.  Mainly the enterweb for everyone's help and pics.  The orange still didn't cover very well but it kinda gives it a weathered look I guess.  That's my store and I'm sticking with it ☺   

Edited March 7, 2021 by Zippi

[Tom Geiger]

Wires look good and you are right about the Internet!  Years ago people said it would kill the hobby but it’s done exactly the opposite!  It’s pulled us all together, made research and buying easy and if you have a question you can get an answer in minutes!

[youpey]

for the life of me, i couldnt get the engine to sit straight in this kit, and i gave up building it

[Kromolly]

The one I built had the straight six.  It sat OK.  I haven't tried the one with the V8.  Sometimes you just have to walk away and come back later and take another look.  I have a '40 Ford coupe I'm modeling after pictures of a late friend's old hot rod.  I started it about 25 years ago and packed it away when life got busy.  I got it out a couple of years ago and have put it away a few times as I've hit roadblocks on some customizing.  Someday.

[Zippi]

Yup.  Putting a V8 in mine and since I added the plug wires I can't get the engine back far enough to install the radiator.  This might take an extra cup of coffee this morning to figure out what to do ☺  

[Tom Geiger]

3 hours ago, Zippi said:

Yup.  Putting a V8 in mine and since I added the plug wires I can't get the engine back far enough to install the radiator.  This might take an extra cup of coffee this morning to figure out what to do ☺  

When I put the longer 4 cylinder engine (kit has V6) in my Jeepster, I moved the radiator forward. I believe Chevy did that with the Tri-fives.

Or look at the parts that make up the front of your engine.. is there anything there you can make thinner. In the past I’ve shaved down pulleys and even eliminated the fan on one that had a big radiator shroud.

[Zippi]

I received my 18" Torque Thrust wheels yesterday from Model Roundup and was not happy with the look.  I guess I was thinking they would look the same as my full size 1949 chevy truck.  They are just to small.  This was my fault as I should have called and ask what the dimensions were before I ordered.  When I get out in the garage this morning I'm going to try the wheels out of my 1956 Ford truck (Foose) kit and see how they look.      

[mchook]

Your 49 is really nice! I've been working on my father's 51, we're putting power steering in it & it's been fighting us all the way. Great progress on your model, keep up the good work. I can't wait to see a finished pic sitting next to your full size truck.

[espo]

The tire diameter issue with the rubber band tires can leave you with an overall diameter that is less than the stock wheels and tires. I have seen some of the tires from earlier Corvette kits that had stock 50 series tires that either fit or can be made to fit these wheels. They will offer a taller sidewall on the tire and the tread surface is usually as wide as the wheel. If you have any of these Corvette kits or their tires in your stash that maybe an option to try.