Lamborghini Miura

[70 Sting]

Planning to build the Miura next, will also be attempting to airbrush a car body for the first time, should be fun. I'm going with candy green and silver side panels. Interior will be 2 tone black with silver accents and maybe embossing powder for the carpet, though I don't think it will show.

I have a few questions before I start:

Can I spray white primer over red plastic? I thought I read somewhere that red was hard to cover.

Can you mix Tamiya Gloss Black with Tamiya Flat Black to make semi-gloss?  (More out of general interest)

If there's no chance that parts of an engine, trunk or interior will never be seen, do you complete them to best of your ability, casually cover them or don't bother at all?

Thanks!

[Snake45]

1. Shouldn't be a big problem with your candy green. Red plastic can sometimes show through light paints like white, light yellow, or even light blues. Better yet, hit it with a gray primer, then your white primer, then your candy base (silver or gold), then your candy green. 

2. Tamiya makes a matte or semigloss black. Just get that. Matter of fact, it looks like you HAVE their semi-gloss black in the pic. Also, note that your NATO Black isn't really a true black, it's more of an extremely dark gray. 

3. Entirely up to you. Personally, I don't waste a lot of time (with most builds) on chassis, interiors, or underhood areas and in many builds I don't even put the engine in. Some I do, some I don't. I mainly concentrate on bodywork, paint finish, and trim and detail, but this is YOUR hobby and YOUR model and you should always pursue it in a way that makes YOU happy. 

[70 Sting]

1. Good idea regarding grey primer. I've been practicing decanting and airbrushing the primer and it goes on fairly thin, so there's less chance of filling in panel lines etc. with multiple applications of paint for candy coating.

2. I have a couple extra Gloss and Flat bottles on hand, was just wondering if I could mix them for spraying chassis and undercoating on cars. I chose the Nato black for a little contrast against the semi gloss black. Might still use flat and/or gloss.

Thanks @Snake45

[Venom]

I agree with all of what Snake said, except that I would first spray the body with matte black, then mist over that with silver, then spray the green on... if it were mine. The reason being that the black will fill in the panel lines, and if you don’t spray too much silver on, the darkness will be retained in the panel line for when you spray the green on, which will give a more natural effect without as much buildup needed with the green paint. However you choose to do it, I’m sure you will figure out how to get the results you’re looking for... just take your time and think it through?

[70 Sting]

@Venom Hmm, I do have Vallejo Acrylic black primer (flat) in a spray can. Would a gloss black be better?

Edited July 5, 2021 by 70 Sting

[Bainford]

Interesting kit, I'm following.

I've mixed Tamiya gloss black and flat black (acrylics) to get semi-gloss, though I prefer their actual semi-gloss which lays down very nice. However, I find semi-gloss to still be too flat for chassis painting. For general chassis parts that are to be black, I mix Tamiya semi-gloss black and gloss black acrylic to create a black with a slight sheen, perfect for chassis work. I call it chassis black, and always have some on hand.

[robertw]

You've gotten some excellent advice so far but the one thing not mentioned that I almost always do is to deepen door, hood etc lines. I usually use a # 11 blade backward. That way if you get too many coats of primer, color and clear you won' lose the depth of these lines. I usually use Tamiya Fine White Primer (lacquer based) decanted and applied through my airbrush and I've also used silver as a primer.

As for interior, chassis and engine. I'll spend as much time painting the interior (usually with acrylics) as I do the body and on a nice kit like this it deserves your best efforts. I build a lot of Japanese kits so that I can escape from having to do engines. For me that is the most disagreeable part of building a model, but that's just me. Chassis are usually done in semi or matte black.

After you've had a little more practice you might try using the Tamiya synthetic lacquers in their rattle can line. They spray on very smoothly and dry almost instantly. I'll decant, then spray them through the airbrush although Tamiya are bringing out most of the same colours in bottles, calling them the LP line.

Good luck with this build. I'll look forward to seeing it finished.

[70 Sting]

@Bainford Good to know. I'll keep it as a backup if/when the need arises. I have an hour drive to get to any hobby shop in my area.

@robertw I've tried panel scribing once, the results were sketchy as I found it difficult to stay within the lines. I was using the Tamiya Panel Scriber 2 but didn't like the angle you had to work at. I made a DIY scriber that I plan to try this time as well as the back of the Xacto blade. 

I was not aware that Japanese kits were less detailed with regards to engines. I have a plan to make the engine a little more detailed and the rear window louvers removable so I can see the engine when it's complete. 

I used a Tamiya TS spray on my previous model, I have to say, it goes on a heck of lot better than rattle cans from the hardware store.  I'm in the process of switching from Tesors enamel to Tamiya Acrylic, though there aren't nearly as many colours (at least in gloss paint) as their TS lineup. The LP line looks very interesting but a little more toxic in use. Maybe the best compromise is TS or LP for the body and acrylic for the rest.

[robertw]

4 hours ago, 70 Sting said:

@Bainford Good to know. I'll keep it as a backup if/when the need arises. I have an hour drive to get to any hobby shop in my area.

@robertw I've tried panel scribing once, the results were sketchy as I found it difficult to stay within the lines. I was using the Tamiya Panel Scriber 2 but didn't like the angle you had to work at. I made a DIY scriber that I plan to try this time as well as the back of the Xacto blade. 

I was not aware that Japanese kits were less detailed with regards to engines. I have a plan to make the engine a little more detailed and the rear window louvers removable so I can see the engine when it's complete. 

I used a Tamiya TS spray on my previous model, I have to say, it goes on a heck of lot better than rattle cans from the hardware store.  I'm in the process of switching from Tesors enamel to Tamiya Acrylic, though there aren't nearly as many colours (at least in gloss paint) as their TS lineup. The LP line looks very interesting but a little more toxic in use. Maybe the best compromise is TS or LP for the body and acrylic for the rest.

You are closer to your nearest LHS then I am, 2hrs to the nearest and close to 3 hrs to the best one so as a result I tell others that, " I'm my own hobby shop" and I keep multiples of everything I might need, especially in paints. It's worked out too during our year long covid thing my local closest LHS claims to not being able to get paints. That's ok I haven't needed any paints in over a year and I've been building steady.

Not all Japanese kits are engineless but many are but despite that body and interior detail are as good as any kit. Some refuse to build a kit without an engine I don't have that problem but I'm also not into competitive building. I just build for the fun of it.

I primarily use the Tamiya TS (usually decanted) or the LP series when I'm doing cars then clear with TS-13 Clear before colour sanding and polishing the body. Interior and other details will then be done with acrylics or enamels. I was told recently that Tamiya are wanting to bring out a line of enamels which would be great news considering the demise of Model Master and Testors and the problem that Humbrol is currently having with their lack of French labels.

Good luck on your build.

 

[70 Sting]

39 minutes ago, robertw said:

You are closer to your nearest LHS then I am, 2hrs to the nearest and close to 3 hrs to the best one so as a result I tell others that, " I'm my own hobby shop" and I keep multiples of everything I might need, especially in paints. It's worked out too during our year long covid thing my local closest LHS claims to not being able to get paints. That's ok I haven't needed any paints in over a year and I've been building steady.

Not all Japanese kits are engineless but many are but despite that body and interior detail are as good as any kit. Some refuse to build a kit without an engine I don't have that problem but I'm also not into competitive building. I just build for the fun of it.

I primarily use the Tamiya TS (usually decanted) or the LP series when I'm doing cars then clear with TS-13 Clear before colour sanding and polishing the body. Interior and other details will then be done with acrylics or enamels. I was told recently that Tamiya are wanting to bring out a line of enamels which would be great news considering the demise of Model Master and Testors and the problem that Humbrol is currently having with their lack of French labels.

Good luck on your build.

 

Out there on the prairies you probably can't even see your neighbours. ?

[robertw]

Not quite but close, live in a small town so have neighbours but must admit that when I look out the front window to a vacant lot and beyond that a field with cows and no I don't consider them neighbours. ?

[carbuilder1950]

@70 Sting

Love these cars, and the color you chose should be a "Knock-out."

I hope your paint turns out as nice as you want.

I'll be following along on this one ?.

Dave

[Sandboarder]

A really well thought out build plan with a great idea and a good kit to start with.

 

You have been given some good advice but I’d like to mention a couple of things.

 

Red plastic when primered and sprayed in silver generally won’t bleed tho. If the primer can’t stop it the silver paint will.

 

Now I see you have AK Extreme metal which is Enamel paint. You have acrylic Tamiya paints. The X-25 clear green would be your final colour coat. Do not use TS-13 lacquer from a rattle can over this as it WILL melt/dissolve/damage the acrylic clear green. Stick with similar paint or do some good test spoons to avoid damaging your work. 

[70 Sting]

3 hours ago, Sandboarder said:

Red plastic when primered and sprayed in silver generally won’t bleed tho. If the primer can’t stop it the silver paint will.

Interesting, I was thinking the same thing. Tamiya X-10 is a darker silver.

I've had one bad experience in the past with Krylon clear spray over another brand of spray paint that had been dry for days. 

The X-25 came out fairly glossy on the spoon so I might not spray clear at all (certainly not TS-13 ). I recall reading somewhere, perhaps on this forum, the debate over gloss coating and whether it looks more realistic, overdone or best suited for certain cars. I guess in the end, it comes down to a matter of personal taste. I would like to try for a super glossy finish at some point... almost seems like the holy grail of finishes.

 

[Richard Bartrop]

On 7/4/2021 at 1:07 PM, 70 Sting said:

Planning to build the Miura next, will also be attempting to airbrush a car body for the first time, should be fun. I'm going with candy green and silver side panels. Interior will be 2 tone black with silver accents and maybe embossing powder for the carpet, though I don't think it will show.

I have a few questions before I start:

Can I spray white primer over red plastic? I thought I read somewhere that red was hard to cover.

Can you mix Tamiya Gloss Black with Tamiya Flat Black to make semi-gloss?  (More out of general interest)

If there's no chance that parts of an engine, trunk or interior will never be seen, do you complete them to best of your ability, casually cover them or don't bother at all?

Thanks!

2.  Tamiya x-18 has always worked just first for me, or is there something specific you're trying to do?

3. Up to you how you want to go, but for some cars, the mechanicals are what make them interesting, and Italian supercar engines do tend to border on abstract sculpture.

[70 Sting]

@Richard Bartrop Nothing specific with the X and XF, I just have a few more of those on hand and was wondering how they'd mix for chassis and other parts you don't see as much.

I have a plan to make the engine compartment louvers removable and open up the rear grill to make it look more realistic. I'm going to try adding engine wires for the first time and maybe add a couple different colours of paint. As robertw said above, it's a nice kit and worth the effort. If it was entirely hidden, perhaps less so.

[randyc]

Here's some stuff from my build - sounds much like yours.  I don't have any completion photos though.  My photos never go in the right order.   I primed with silver of some sort apparently - looks like I had the red body as well.   Paint is testors out of can, but I might have decanted it to airbrush.  That would be my guess.   Basic engine photos - then you hide it all with the body.  Interior is nice enough to spend some time on.   I found a site with this exact car that had lots of reference photos.  

[Snake45]

Looking good! I'm watching with interest. Few years ago I got this toy Miura for a couple bucks, it looks like it's right around 1/24-1/25 scale and I've been looking for some inspiration of something to do with it. First job will be to find some appropriate-looking wheels and tires. Drive on with yours! 

[70 Sting]

@randyc Looks great. Love that interior - great colour choice and detail.

I was spraying more spoons with different AK and Tamiya silvers over different primed bases today. I pretty much suck with an airbrush at this point but I can say that AK Interactive Black Base goes on poorly.

@Snake45 You could sand it down and perhaps make some louvers for the rear window. And replace the corpse in the front seat.

I found a box of miscellaneous cables, wires, adapters and such and thought I could strip them for engine wires. Some are more flexible than others but I think I'll give them a try.

[Venom]

On 7/5/2021 at 10:41 AM, 70 Sting said:

@Venom Hmm, I do have Vallejo Acrylic black primer (flat) in a spray can. Would a gloss black be better?

No, don’t use gloss for a base layer.... I mean, I’m sure it can be done and likely has been successfully, but you want your base layer to be like primer so that the top layer has something to really adhere to. Gloss would be more of a risk.

And if you use acrylic for the base layer make sure to use acrylic for your top coat as well, or enamel on top of enamel, etc.?

[70 Sting]

Made some progress today. After testing a few other silvers, I decided stick with AK Matte Silver and spray it over their Black Base.

Stripped the chrome off a few parts with Old Dutch Bleach... wowsers that worked quick! I'm talking within 2 minutes the chrome was completely gone. I did leave them in the bath for a couple hours more and after taking them out I could feel a slimy substance on the parts - perhaps the glue?

Also opened up the front and rear grill/vent locations on the body. I'm going to glue some screen to the front and grind away the back of the rear grill to expose the holes/openings. I first tried using a pin vise to drill a bunch of holes but the bit kept skipping across the surface so I ended up using an Xacto blade. I had a couple little slips but I think I can sand or fill them.

 

[Venom]

Harry, that takes a lot of patient cutting to do that... nice job?  Also, I was wondering if you were wearing gloves when handling your bumpers? Bleach on bare skin basically melts the very surface layer of skin...causes a slimey feeling?

[70 Sting]

58 minutes ago, Venom said:

Bleach on bare skin basically melts the very surface layer of skin...causes a slimey feeling?

What?! ☠️ I guess I will be from now on.

[Can-Con]

Harry, I've done my share of candy paints and I can give you a few tips. 

The silver, gold and other very metallic paints do indeed block the red. It's because the flakes in it act like shellac and lay down like shingles on a roof so it's harder for the dye to leach up through the layers. The pigment in other paints lays down like balls or pebbles, it's easier for the pigment to seep up through it.

The silver, gold or whatever can be tinted to match your final color. metallic light blue for candy blue, light green for green, pink for red, etc. This gives a base that will be easier to cover evenly as the tinted base helps hide any light and dark areas.

Don't even try to get a shiny wet coat with the candy. Just put it on in mist coats until you have the depth you want and then clearcoat it. It WILL need a clearcoat if you plan to polish it out or do any sanding on it. IF you sand or polish the uncleared candy coats you could very easily make that spot lighter than the surrounding paint or even go right through to the base coats. 

You can clearcoat Tamiya acrylics with the lacquer sprays BUT, it's difficult and could make the color run just like someone said above. I'd just wait for it to harden a week or two and clear it with 3 or 4 coats of the Tamiya clear in the bottle airbrushed on and polish it out when that has dried for a few days ,, the longer the better. 

Good luck with it. I ordered the green Mura with the photoetch from my local hobby shop about 3 months ago but he hasn't got it in for me yet.

[70 Sting]

Thanks for the info, @Can-Con. That's a good analogy for understanding paint science.

Hmm, my intention was not to clear coat this one as it's my first run at painting a car body with an airbrush. I do have some Tamiya X-22 on hand, if the candy green turns out ok, perhaps I'll give it a try. If something goes wrong I'll just blame you. ?

Green Miura, that's the detailed-up version. Looking forward to seeing that one.