DiscoRover007

Looks like some slight fogging due to humidity. Duplicolor is very sensitive to it. Should go away with clear coat and sunny weather.

Would be better in 1/24

This is excellent work! I love that green metallic color. Could you point me in the right direction in acquiring some?

Long time no see guys. It is has been a long time haha. Unfortunately, the red and silver bodies suffered damage and had to be stalled. The blue body was also mishandled by someone in my household and suffered chipping on multiple areas. At that point I was drained of my enthusiasm to continue. BUT The blue Supra still lives on. I recently started with a fresh body, painted in the same color, this time I clear coated in 2k clear to give it extra protection. I also made some pretty good vaccum lines for the engine bay. I will post a new progress pic soon.

TS-17 Gloss Aluminum is probably the best in scale silver look from a spray can. It takes a lot of work and prep to make it look just right though. You could probably say that of most silvers. You need to wet sand your primer and get it very smooth. Use light coats from a heated can first. Keep your wet coats consistent but not too heavy so you can avoid dark spots. If you are using TS-13 to clear it, you need to again start with light coats to keep the color coat from re-activating. TS-76 is a good silver too and is more forgiving than TS-17 but the flake is a little larger and has more of a sparkle (Still in scale in my opinion compared to most options). A body with well prepped primer, and finely sanded color coats before the last wet coat of TS-76 will give you a very fine silver look. TS-30 Silver leaf is very very fine. It's almost more of a plating than it is silver flake. This being the case your primer needs to be baby smooth to keep it looking "fine". It will not cover any flaws whatsoever in your paint. Its a good color but I think it so bare of "grain" that its not quite as pleasing to the eye as TS-17 is.

This one is just phenomenal. You should see if Lamborghini will buy it from you!

I’d really love to see a company take on the 4x4 market there are so many untapped subjects that would sell like hotcakes. Land Rover Discovery Mitsubishi Montero (03 and up) Modern Toyota Tacoma’s, Land Cruiser’s, 4 Runner’s Nissan Patrol

Appreciate your thoughts! The chip in question is just above the left most bulb in the headlight. Where the edge of the fender would meet the glass of the light. Probably should have circled it.

Just thinking out loud here. But I wonder if the best solution would be to spray the Tamiya Racing Blue into a cup, add a few drops of Tamiya lacquer thinner and retarder, and fill that chip with a very fine tipped brush. Then I'll use a light coat of Spray Max blending coat, through the airbrush and simply use that as the clear coat to blend it into the existing clear.

Hey guys so I've got Mk4 supra build that is quite precious to me that I've gone to great strides in detailing and upgrading and having good paint work. The body is painted with Tamiya white primer, tamiya lacquer racing blue from the can, and then spray max 2k clear from the can. It came out great. Somehow however when I was testing the look with the hood on it I managed to chip a pin sized portion of paint away near the headlamp. Luckily, when I attach the headlight glass it makes even less noticeable. But of course this will bother me to no end. I swear its like the universe will not let you get a perfect paint job. Which was the point of using 2k clear in the first place, not getting chips and little accidents like this. Anyway I wanted to ask what would be the best way to patch this? I feel like its almost too small to mask and spray, and doing so may risk further paint chipping when removing tape, additionally the masking lines may appear more of a nuisance than the chip itself. What I'm thinking is to maybe spray enough of the Racing Blue into a small cup, and then using something like the tip of a lead pencil to sort of dab and fill this hole. The more difficult part of this for me is what to seal it with? Being that this is a 2k clear finish, the new clear won't blend into the existing one. Could I get away with using the lead pencil trick with the 2k clear as well, and then hoping for the best when it hardens so some very delicate polishing? My understanding though is that 2k is meant to be atomized so I would worry about pinholes or bubbles. I suppose I could try this with a 1k clear also. Spray Max does have a clear coat blender, but I'm trying to think through how practical that would be on such a small area. I would need to essentially dab on the 2k clear and then quickly dab the blending coat right after. But on such a small area there's no way to really control that the blending coat goes on the edges of the chip. I suppose I could just dab on the color coat and leave it exposed as an option as well.

Looks very well detailed. Disappointed it's not in 1/24 though. Even at 1/25 it looks a little cluttered toyish to my eye.

Phenomenal job. This is a perfect build. Hope you keep this one in a case!

Thats what I do also. Then I wipe the body thoroughly with Tamiya's static display brush. Does a great job at eliminating dust before painting.

That PE looks fantastic. Something to keep in mind though, I believe the bumper is attached to the front end as one piece. I know there is a chrome trim that pretty much covers the seam but it might be worth puttying and smoothing over.

I use spray adhesive. It takes a little more work because you need to mask off the areas you don't want carpeted. But the cool thing is you can spray, apply it, dump the excess and if you still have patches you can respray and reflock again. Or you can fix small patches with the white glue method if you choose to. This gives you a strong and thick layer of flocking without looking matted that Elmer's glue can do sometimes.