peteski

While the "chrome" most model companies use to make plastic look like chrome is actually very thin layer of aluminum over high gloss undercoat. Aluminum is not a very robust metal so it can be easily removed using Lye-based liquids (like LA Awesome) and some even use chlorine bleach. But some manufacturers use electroplating method to deposit thicker layer of another metal over the plastic. Those are basically impervious to most chemicals. Trumpeter is one of those companies which uses this method. What company makes the Stacy David Hiboy?

What specific kind/brand of foil are you using? "Slick surface" is sort of strange statement. Slick might mean waxed (not just glossy paint). Foils used to represent chrome trim on models all have pressure sensitive adhesive (like any other sticker). In my experience stickers adhere best to glossy surfaces.

Standard "gold chrome" used on plastic kits is the regular (vacuum metalized) layer of (silver) aluminum sprayed with transparent yellow/orange clear top coat to make the silver look gold. If you try stripping just that top clear layer you will also damage the delicate silver layer under it. As I see it, the only way to de-gold is to fully strip the parts and re-coat them with a silver color finish of your choice.

Thanks for the explanation, but to me in order for the "solder" to run like a liquid along the kit's parts indicates that the "solder's" melting temperature has to be quite bit lower than the kit's parts themselves. If l liquid metal actual wets another metal, there is a great amount of heat transfer going on between them (for the wetting to occur). I guess looking at the "big picture" there really is no point trying to get into the technical details. Looks like that technique works and I learned something new.

As you mentioned, many metallic paints (made specifically for models, automotive touch-up or just general purpose) have metallic particles too large to look in-scale on a model. Testors line of automotive colors hobby paints is one of the examples of out-of-scale metallic paint. Models painted with those paints look like the were coated with glitter. This is not very noticeable when the model is viewed in-person, but it really shows in close-up photos. Some hobby paint suppliers who blend their own paints (like CMW, Scale Finishes, Zero or Splash Paints) use fine metallic powders so their paints look in-scale on a model.

Good for you! I don't think many modelers have access to laser welders. CA or epoxy work well, but the joint strengths is nowhere as good as welding. Matt the technique you describe sounds more like brazing than soldering. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing Also, if the solder was the same stuff as the kit parts themselves, wouldn't that also start melting the kit parts?! I suspect the melting point of the solder is lower than the metal used for the kit. Don't you also need a soldering iron with adjustable temperature to keep it for getting too hot?

I'll ask the obvious (since you didn't mention it): After you followed the password reset process (expecting an email in the email account tied to your forum account), did you check the SPAM folder for the password reset email?

That is a coverage of Topher's business which in todays world is a quickly vanishing service. But I do have to comment on whoever proofread the article. Gear made of acetone [sic]? Maybe they were thinking of "acetal" plastic? In either case, the gear in question appears to be made of Nylon, and even though Nylon is a durable plastic, it will eventually wear down (especially when it meshes with a metal worm). Maybe it was molded from inferior quality plastic, but it was not "acetone". When technical terms are used, someone with proper background should be proofreading it (yes, this type of problem shows up more and more often in printed media and spoken word). Sorry for the rant.

Yes, just remove the "belt" material from that pulley, create a groove, and make your own belt. in 1:8 scale that will look more realistic than a 3D printed belt. I have done this on kits as small as 1:43 and IMO it improves look of the engine compartment. If I can do this in 1:43, you should be able to pull it off in 1:8.

Tamiya Silver Plate is also metallic color with no apparent flakes. Also Tru-Color Aluminum is very smooth. Then there are various metallic shades from Alclad II. Those all supposed to represent bare metal surface (not a metallic paint with visible flakes).

I'm surprised that someone recommends soldering white-metal kits. If the kit is actually made of what in U.S. is usually called white-metal (or Zamak), that alloy does not solder easily. If the metal in question is Pewter (tin-based alloy), then it can be soldered, but it would be quite difficult to do without melting the parts themselves. If there is some new building technique out there, I have not heard about it. Tameo most likely uses some Peter alloy. I'm experienced in soldering (bot as a hobby and professionally) and I would not consider soldering Tameo kits. Here is some reading material on Zamak: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamak And on Pewter: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pewter I have soldered kits made using photo-etched brass parts, but that is something all together different. Most modelers use either CA (superglue) or epoxy to build metal kits. My recommendation would be to forget soldering and use adhesives.

LOL, I thought your reply meant that you still couldn't watch the video, and not that you tried the technique and it didn't live up to your expectation. I guess if your worded your reply "Tried the technique. It's not there yet". I would have gotten the clue.

That makes total sense. Quality of the JPG file (its compression) affects the file size.

Worked for me. The The embedded video plays for me in Firefox on a PC. Here is a direct link https://youtu.be/MCbirH84sqE

Clever!