peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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My neighbor made me an apron (I provided the fabric) with a strip of Velcro sewn onto the bottom edge. I have the other part of (self-adhesive) Velcro stuck under my workbench. Works like a charm, except when sometimes I decide not to wear it while working and then I almost always drop something on the floor! Still haven't learned to make sure to always wear it!
Jewelers/watch-makers have been using this type of apron for many, many years. The beard thing looks usable, but to me it is too tight around the neck to be comfortable for long periods of time. Aprons have much looser fit around the neck.
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4 hours ago, Art Anderson said:
Peter. the Testors/Modelmaster units are polyethylene--I've used them for years now, with good results.
Art
Now I'm confused. Sure the hobby ones are safe since they are designed to work with those hobby paints. But I thought that we were discussing turkey basters. Those are the ones I've seen where some not made from polyethylene.
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On 4/4/2018 at 11:28 AM, Greg Wann said:
The photo is a bit grainy. These two bright light colored dots are the vents filled with resin. They are close enough to the part to be effective and not be directly connected to the part. I think this is much nicer than the typical sprue attachment points in model kits. I think it is a advantage. Some parts on sprues are as small as the sprue itself.
Now I understand! Thanks! Learning more tricks and techniques . . .
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Very interesting!
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Nice! Mustangs are beautiful airplanes.
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I pretty much use BSI CA line of products and they all work well.
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Typical hobbyist language...
When you say acrylic, do you mean water-based paints? (Because there are plenty of organic-solvent-based acrylics). If you mean "water-based acrylics" then some of those paints will curdle when mixed with alcohol, while others will be fine.
But regardless, denatured alcohol is a good cleaner/degreaser for parts (metal and plastic) before painting.
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On 4/8/2018 at 3:53 PM, Art Anderson said:
A cheap polyethylene "turkey baster" works great, as do the "squeeze bulb" droppers from Testors.
Art
And make sure it is polyethylene (the slightly milky, soft, waxy looking plastic). I've seen basters made from crystal clear plastic (either acrylic or polystyrene). Those will be attacked by strong solvents in paints. Unless of course the paint is water-based.
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On 4/4/2018 at 9:37 PM, Mahogany Rush said:
Anyone try the plasti-dip for masking yet? I need to darken the back fenders and masking the curve if tough plus it bleeds a bit. The car is all painted, so I want to paint the fender and surrounding area with the PDip, then xacto the fender line and peel that off. Then paint the fender, then remove the surrounding PDip. Make sense? Will it work?
I don't think that is a good idea. Plasti-Dip uses solvents similar to what is used as solvents in model paints. If you apply it over paint it might start attacking/dissolving the paint.
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On 4/8/2018 at 7:52 PM, aurfalien said:
I forgot to mention to then soak it in water for a good bit.
BTW this is meant to be a helpful tip. No need to be critical.
Lets think about this for a bit: Molotow is alcohol-solvent-based. The tip is made from some sort of fiber. If the tip is clogged up with dry paint why not soak it in a solvent. How about the same solvent used in the paint itself (alcohol). SO soak it in either 99% isopropyl alcohol or maybe in denatured alcohol. Or if that fails, lacquer thinner or acetone will do a good job of dissolving the dried up paint. No need to use SuperClean. All the liquids I mentioned will dry with no residue, and you will be able to use the tip again without rinsing the tip in water.
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Plating (electroplating) is not what is used on plastic model kit parts (at least on majority of kits). The "plating" we see on kit parts is vacuum metalizing. This process is totally different from plating.
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2 hours ago, Greg Wann said:
OK, I see what you are asking. To me, those are vent holes where excess resin and air gets pushed out when the two mold parts are put together. If you go to page 6 on the top link above you will see my secret weapon. This is a sort of waffle shaped thing I found at work. It was perfect for my experimenting back then. It is actually for vibration isolation on motors and pumps to mount on. So....I place this waffle on top of the mold and then I place molds on top of it. For me, air pressure and weight on the mold is what makes a good part. There are still little tricks to know. When I first decided to try resin casting I was doing what most everyone else was doing. I joined the Cactus Car model club. I saw some resin pieces I would have thrown in the trash instead of expecting someone to shell out a lot of money for a difficult task of using them. So, I learned to make really nice parts pretty quickly and I became the mastercaster.
Ah, so you put some resin in the female mold, then you put the male mold in and squish the resin out. Some resin comes up the vent holes. Then you put it under pressure and let it cure. But aren't those vent holes still filled with resin? If so, then you just break the cast parts off those stubs of resin in the vent holes?
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On 4/2/2018 at 12:30 PM, Greg Wann said:
I like to have the excess resin pool in these wells. The flash is nice and thin, this is good. The best way to release small parts from the thin flash is to carefully break the flash away from the part with a sharpened Starbucks coffee stirrer
Greg, by "pour stub" I meant the pools of resin shown here in the center the mold.These are solid funnel-shaped cavities (the top part is large, then there is a small opening going down towards the part's cavity). I was wondering how this funnel-shaped piece of hardened resin is detached from the molded mirror.
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I believe that the "revive it" stuff is another iteration of the original Future Floor Finish (which in its previous iteration was called Pledge FloorCare Mult-surface finish)
There used to be a great website called "the complete Future" maintained by a modeler called Swanny, He used to keep up with all the name changes, but he shut it down couple of years ago.
Um, wait . . . I just checked and it is back! http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html But if the "revive it" stuff is really Future, he has not updated the website with that info. Not sure if he is even updating it anymore.
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Is the decal paper specifically made for ink jet (not laser) printing? I don't have any pointers on the proper ink jet printer setup (I print my decals on Alps thermal transfer printer), but I can tell you that even if you manage to print the decal correctly, if you apply it to a non-white surface all the non-black colors are translucent and will not show their true colors. All the standard consumer color printers (CYMK) use translucent colored inks and they need a white background to have the colors properly rendered. My Alps printer is also a CYMK printer but it can also lay down a layer of opaque white ink as an undercoat for the color (CYMK) inks which print over the white.
For more info on CYMK color model see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CMYK_color_model
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Yeah, yeah, the clear primer stuff is not a typical primer but an adhesion promoter when painting plastic parts on 1:1 cars.
As a side-note, Tamiya's metal primer is a clear primer too. Isn't that ironic, don't you think?
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Thanks for even more "casting secrets" Greg. And the mirrors came out really nice! You mentioned flash, but how did you brake the mirrors off the pour stubs? With the same stick?
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3 hours ago, High octane said:
Yep, and they're doing it on TV also with MORE commercials and less showtime. Think I'll be watching all my old DVDs and VHS tapes soon.
Yeah, that is amazing! They also often cut out scenes out of the programs to shorten them (and make more time available for commercials). We sure live in strange times.
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9 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:
We have an email chain within our town and someone started a thread about bad Amazon deliveries. They use their own contractors to deliver and they are worse than UPS, USPS and FedEx combined. The stories about packages being tossed from moving vehicles etc, and I see them at the curb, off the curb etc all the time. Our houses sit way back on the properties so those packages are just perfect theft bait. I got home one evening last week and there's a wet Amazon Prime package sitting in the bushes near my curbside mail box in the rain. Then I found out that my daughter had sent us the package. We let her know it arrived damage. She checks the shipping info and it says "Delivered - Handed package to resident". Now Amazon is arguing with my daughter that their vendor hand delivered it.. yeesh!
I've heard some of those horror stories too. But in my case, it was an eBay item (and USPS Priority Mail delivery). I should have been clearer.
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I appreciate you posting photos of how you are making the molds, etc. It is like getting free education from an experienced caster. Thanks!
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On 3/29/2018 at 8:44 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:
Either porch-pirates or incompetent USPS driver.
Tracking number shows a small package of parts was "left at the front door" at 4:52 PM.
Odd, as it was a small package that is a size they usually leave in the mailbox.
I arrived home at 5:08 PM. Nothing on the porch or in the box. Nada. Zip. Zero.
Going to the PO in the AM to try to find out WTF happened.
Yeah, it WAS scanned in as "delivered", but that doesn't mean for certain the driver actually put it at the right address. I get other people's stuff occasionally.
Numbers are hard.
I had this happen to me few months ago. I even went looking for it at my adjacent neighbor homes - nada. The package was delivered the next day as if nothing has happened. I wasn't home to ask the mail carrier what happened. Weird! Like you said, the mail carrier had to scan the barcode on the package to show it as delivered.
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Well done - I like it!
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29 minutes ago, martinfan5 said:
My understanding all Cubes were built in Japan, what is the 1st or 11th digit on your Cube's Vin number ?
Cube seems to have been aped from the original Toyota bB (Scion xB in US), but even funkier looking with those rounded windows and asymmetrical styling. I own a 2006 xB and judging by how many I've seen on the streets, they sold better than the Cube. And xB is so darn cute! My xB was built in Japan and I think that all xBs were like that.
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That's right, there is Harry's Hobbies too. I have never visited their shop, but they usually have a dealer table at my club's annual contest and I have bought things from them. Yes, nice people.
chrome plating in Canada
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Yes, plastic can be electroplated, but I'm just saying that the "plated" parts in plastic kits are not plated but vacuum metalized. It is a different process.