peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Czasem polak polakowi pomaga.
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Yes, Pro Tech braided line has a more realistic weave than the Detail master. He supposedly had it custom made to his specs (instead of just using electrical shielded cable used by Detail master).
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The foils you mentioned are thicker and stiffer than the original or new chrome. So they are bit more stubborn and don't confirm to the surface as well. The gold and black can be rubbed off if burnished too vigorously. I prefer masking and black paint rather than black foil. I only used gold for small items like emblems.
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Yeah, that is an interesting diorama. Funny, no matter what type of government is governing a country (Communist or Democratic), there are always problems abound. There is no perfect solution. I'm not trying to start a political discussion here - just stating the obvious.
That translation is pretty good, but "non-business" should read "generic" or "non-branded" (as in the manufacturer of the other models in the diorama).
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Neoprene rubber is actually type of synthetic rubber which is very resistant to degradation. Quoting https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neoprene :
Neoprene resists degradation more than natural or synthetic rubber. This relative inertness makes it well suited for demanding applications such as gaskets, hoses, and corrosion-resistant coatings.[1] It can be used as a base for adhesives, noise isolation in power transformer installations, and as padding in external metal cases to protect the contents while allowing a snug fit. It resists burning better than exclusively hydrocarbon based rubbers,[8] resulting in its appearance in weather stripping for fire doors and in combat related attire such as gloves and face masks. Because of its tolerance of extreme conditions, neoprene is used to line landfills. Neoprene's burn point is around 260°C (500°F).[9]
I suspect that those rubber tires popular with Japanese kit manufacturers are some sort of natural rubber (similar to what is used on 1:1 tires which also crack with age).
As far as the vinyl tires melting styrene goes, it is not PVC (momomer) that is softening the polystyrene. Pure PVC is naturally rigid (like PVC sewer and water pipes). It is made soft by addition of plasticizers. In some instances (poor compatibility or inferior material quality perhaps?) the plasticizers leaches out of the PVC tire and ends up softening the polystyrene parts of the model.
Here is some info on plasticizers from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_chloride
Phthalate plasticizers
Most vinyl products contain plasticizers which dramatically improve their performance characteristic. The most common plasticizers are derivatives of phthalic acid. The materials are selected on their compatibility with the polymer, low volatility levels, and cost. These materials are usually oily colourless substances that mix well with the PVC particles.
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I had Centerlines on my '76 Camaro (in the '80s). I still have them in the basement.
I always liked their clean brushed-aluminum look.They are made of front and back halves riveted together using stainless steel rivets. The halves are sealed by a thick bead of clear silicone. So that is how they were made (at least in the '80s when I bought them).
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Sweet!
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Do whatever you like and build whichever kit you want. It is your model and who cares if others don't like it or that it is not perfectly accurate.
Or better yet, get the Fujimi kit and build them all. Then show them as a collection showing difference between all those models. That would make an interesting display (and you have 4 times the fun building them).
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Same here - happy PayPal user since early 2000s. If this is not an eBay transaction then I think it is up to the seller to provide tracking numbers, etc. PayPal is just used for the monetary transaction. I buy and sell items from and to people I know from online forums and I have not been burned yet. But I have known those people for years and from what they post and how they act I can tell they are honest.
I have not done any transactions with people I do not have any history about. You at least probably shouldn't use a "friends and family" money transfer directly from your bank account. It would be safer to use a credit card transfer (and pay the fees). That way you will at least have a credit card protection if something goes wrong. But before you send any money, work out all the details (like what shipping option they will use and whether there will be tracking) with the seller.
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Yes, I experience the delay every time I click on anything on this site. Sometimes for 20 seconds or more. I learned to live with it.
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You could do reverse masking: Paint the transmission area of the chassis silver first, mask the transmission, then paint the rest of the chassis whatever color it needs to be.
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It is there again and it works! THANKS!
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I just posted something and wanted to correct/add somethgin to the post but the "edit" link is gone. We can't edit our posts anymore?
EDIT: Yes, it works again!
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Builds & items were, indeed sent to the museum, that were never acknowledged. . . . . Perhaps, if you ever decide to take the time to build & donate a 4 month project somewhere & then, not receive acknowledgement; you'll feel the same .
Without more details it is difficult to get the complete picture.
Was Mark informed that the models and items would be sent to the museum?
Was this a solicited or unsolicited donation?
When models/items were sent (through USPS, UPS, or FedEx I assume) was there any proof that they were delivered to the museum/Mark?
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As long as you don't go to hard on the BMF, it'll be fine (and will get shinier). Polishing any metal with any polishing compound will leave dark residue on the polishing cloth - nothing to worry about. Personally however, if I polished my models, I would polish them before applying BMF. I would be afraid to rip the BMF off the body during polishing.
You said that you masked the BMF?! With what? and the BMF did not lift off the model when you removed the mask?
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Man this is one super nice 67! The white paint and rally wheels makes it different from all the red and black cars, very nice! So excuse my ignorance on the topic of big scale cars, but I'm trying to figure out how to make red line tires. I'm planning to build a Monogram 'Vette similar to this one and one of the focal points on the outside will be the tires. if i could pull this off it would look so much better than a plain black tire.
Funny that you asked:
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Nice job Eric! But that gas pedal looks nothing like any gas pedals I've ever seen. It look more like a brake or clutch pedal.
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Guess I'll have to have that sump pump replaced every few years whether it needs it or not, as I'm not goin' through this again. That does irk me, however stuff like that does happen. Oh well.
Couldn't you install one of those water alarms to warn you about the water lever raising? That would give you some warning that you need to do something before the space floods.
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Another problem I've seen on mostly die-cast Chinese made small scale models (1:43 or 1:64) which are mounted on plastic bases is that the tire material oozes out some sort of clear liquid (plasticizer?) which then softens the plastic base so the tire makes a depression it in. That is probably similar to the tire rot experienced in the 1:24 plastic kits. I blame this on using cheap tire-molding ingredients to save on manufacturing costs.
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There are many eBay sellers who take complete kits, part them out, and sell individual parts for outrageous prices (like a $15 hood or a $40 set of wheels). While the turnover rate is probably pretty low, they do seem to thrive. You could do the same with a partial kit.
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As I see it, many older modelers (who will spend a large part of their income buying plastic model kits) don't do Tweetbooks, Snaptweets or Facechats. Instead, they like to hang around the old-fashioned online modeling forums. By setting up your little project on FB, you are missing out some important input from those individuals. We are a dying breed, but after we gone, do we think that the tech-savvy millennials and even younger generation will keep the hobby going and growing? I sure hope so, but I wouldn't hold my breath . . .
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I've decanted rattle cans using other methods, and in all of those (including this post) I've run into the annoyance of the straw getting extremely cold, to the point where my finger got numb.
That is because the propellent goes from high pressure state (inside the can) to low pressure (ambient) when it sprays out of the nozzle. Simple laws of physics (and that is how a Freon-based air conditioning works too). If you decant in a humid environment you also risk water getting into the decanted paint. When the container you are decanting the paint into cools down, water from the ambient air can start condensing on the inside walls, and if enough condenses it can start dripping down into the paint. Not good.
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IIRC Pactra went to aluminum lids years before Testor did. They also used PLASTIC bottles instead of glass. Don't thin your plastic-bottle Pactra paint with lacquer thinner or it will chew its way out of there!
Aluminum lids? I have an old (plastic) Pactra bottle and it has a steel lid (magnetic). Same with all (old and new) Testors bottles, Floquil, and Scalecoat bottles I own - they all have steel lids. I don't ever recall seeing any hobby paint bottles with aluminum lids.
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Dave, was there anything on or in the box which identified the owner (you)? Name, address, phone # or email address? That would help to locate you (even if someone took it to collect ransom/reward).
Can you re-trace your steps at the NNL? When was the last time you remember seeing or handling that box? Is it possible that you actually took it out to your vehicle but then left it on the curb or maybe even on the roof of your vehicle? People do that with their coffee cups and even with babies!
Hopefully what you learned from your son is true and you will be reunited with your stuff soon!
Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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With dehydrators you have control of the temperature and it is a pretty much dust-free enclosure. Leaving your car outside - not so much. I live in New England where we have cold and humidity - dehydrator comes in really handy. But I can see one being used in warm and dry climate too. It does speed up the paint drying time, but I also use it to accelerate hardening of urethane or epoxy resins, RTV and whatever else kicks over faster when heated.