peteski

BSI Gold (low-odor) AC I believe is not as strong as standard CAs. Still plenty strong in use assuming the glues surfaces are clean and fee of debris or oil (even natural human body oils). Also using the accelerator instead of allowing natural cure to occur makes the CA more brittle.

You hit the nail on the head here. The problem with electrical wire (which is what we use for simulating wiring and hoses in scale models) usually only describe the wire gauge, not the outside diameter of the insulation. Those, as you noted, will wary depending on the wire's purpose (like its maximum voltage and type of insulation material). I have not find any reliable source which would give the outside diameter of insulated electrical wires. That is why I keep on collecting various wires I find from various sources so I can measure them myself. Also, even the same vendors can change the source of their wire, and the new version of the same gauge wire will have different insulation and of course the outside-diameter. There are hobby vendors like Detail Master or Pro-Tech who sell electrical wires for detailing models and they do state the wire's outside diameter. Some large industrial sources of wire also provide complete details specs for their wire (including the outside diameter of the insulation), but those sources usually require that you purchase a large quantity of wire. Some wire, like the 30AWG Kynar-insulated wire wrapping wire have kept its (~0.016") OD over the years, however I find that wire a bit heavy for simulating ignition wire in most 1:24/25 scale models. It does have other uses though (as ti is equivalent to 0.4" wire or hose in 1:1 scale vehicle). Or whatever the equivalent is in other scales you model. Over the years I have collected a decent range of diameters and colors of wire, so I have a good selection available for my models.

Regardless with how many sub-forums we have there is also the fact that many threads are started in the wrong forum. For example, take the "Model Cars Magazine News and Discussions" section. The forum's sub-section description clearly states"Model Cars Magazine News and Discussions. This is for news and discussion about the magazine. We will be posting news and announcements, and you are welcome to ask questions. As always, please be respectful." Just on the 1st page, 9 threads were moved to more appropriate sections, and 10 more moved on the 2nd page. If you look further, more thread moves are there. If you look at all the moved threads, they have nothing to do with the clearly described purpose of that sub-forum. Members just either do not read or understand the description. Maybe MCM forum should go to the single stream of posts like the the Spotlight Hobbies forum. Yes, I'm joking.

So, this is a newly tooled kit? Nice! I thought it was a reboxing of the Fujimi Porsche, like Revell did some years ago.

Sure. I should also mention that if some domestic (USA) paint has "poly" in its name, that also indicates a metallic paint. Mica name is usually used in names of Japanese paint colors.

The shape of the shield seems wrong.

Any paint with "mica" in its name is sparkly or metallic.

I understand, but to me dealing with T-shirts would be just another distraction for them. Like Dan mentioned earlier "Online merch is quite low on the priority scale for the time being."

That stinks. With older "iffy" decals it makes sense to scan them at a high resolution (at least 600 dpi) before trying to use them. I guess someone should have mentioned that earlier. That way you would have a chance to have a new decal printed. I have successfully restored old cracked decals with the Microscale stuff, but obviously this is not guaranteed.

I think a more pressing thing is when the next issue of MCM will be published.

Same thing in a Hilton last January. Not even a pad or pen. I stayed in the same hotel many times in the past and the water pressure in the shower was very high and invigorating. This time the shower head was barely peeing the water out. Yes, I asked for maintenance to look at it. They are even getting stingy on water! They are nickel-and-diming us all to death.

I do like BSI CA and I have all three viscosities. and the accelerator. I find BSI accelerator best because it is low odor and does not attack paint or plastic like other brand accelerators. I also have about half a dozen of various other adhesives. That way I can choose the adhesive best suited for a specific task. Having such a variety makes good quality models easier.

Hey dude, can't we all just get along? I'm not out to get you. Your posts directed to me are not cool. I simply mentioned that I could not find those calipers on the HF website. I did not mention this to prove that you are wrong. I tried multiple searches, and even listed all the available calipers. I was hoping that someone (you maybe) would post the actual link to those calipers so I can check them out myself. And you seem to have done that by posting that photo - thanks! I was looking under calipers. In your photo I spotted that "measuring set" is mentioned on the packaging. Guess what? When I searched HF site for "measuring set" they popped right up. But they are listed under Home > Building & Construction > Measuring & Marking > Specialty Measuring Tools > Technical Measuring Tools, not under "calipers" section. No wonder I could not find them using "caliper" as a keyword. Thanks for your assistance Mr. Scally! Here is a link for future reference: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-technical-measuring-set-94447.html As for me being awesome, I'm well aware of that.

USB C is a widely accepted industry standard, so unless Samsung is doing something "funky", any USB charger with a USB C connector on the end of the cable should work. USB C has more connections (24) than the standard older USB connectors which only had 5. The cable you show looks like a standard USB A to USB C cable. I wonder if there is something custom in the phone's dedicated charger brick itself. For example the data pins of a standard USB A connector can also be used to inform the device being charged about things like fast charge capability. If you happen to have a generic USB A to USB C cable try hooking it up to the phone's dedicated charger brick and to the phone and see if it will charge. I would be curious if that works.

I model in N scale. Where did you get that information? Woodland Scenics sells multiple coarseness N scale ballast and while I don't have it handy, I'm pretty sure that even the fine ballast is larger than 0.2mm. Go to https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/NScaleProducts and search for ballast.

Interesting. Is is just a cable which has connectors on both ends and one of the connectors is a standard USB A rectangular connector which can be plugged into any of the zillion chargers out there? Or is the charging cord permanently wired into the dedicated Samsung charger? What do the connectors look like?

When it comes to figuring appropriate material size, find some 1:1 gravel, measure its average size, then divide it by 64 (since you model in 1:64 scale). Then you have an idea what size material you need. I mentioned N scale ballast because to me that would give you roughly correct size for 1:64 gravel. Brown earth paint is not gravel. Someone didn't read the question. Stuff for fish tanks/birds or kitty litter could work if crushed (in its original state to me it is way too coarse for 1:64 scale gravel).

The problem is that there is not enough activity on the subject to create separate sub-forum. For example, before the last big forum reshuffle, there was a sub-forum dedicated to just large-scale models. As we were told, due to low number of posts, it was merged into other sub-forums. Same with motorcycles. It would be nice to have separate sub-forum, but there isn't isn't enough activity to warrant this.

Not sure why you aren't seeing it Mike. TO me it is clear as day that this is a Vernier caliper. Maybe we live in alternate universes? Which might be true because I went to the HF website and could not find the set of outside calipers shown in this thread.

That *IS* a Vernier caliper - just arranged differently than typical Vernier calipers. I also likely has lower resolution (basically you get what you paid for).

Too bad you made the subject line so generic - something like "Looking for 1:64 scale gravel material" might have been a bit more informative. 1:64 is well within the range of model railroading scales. If you have a hobby shop which caters to model railroaders you should be able to find something appropriate. I think that N scale ballast material (it comes in several colors and coarseness) would be good representation of gravel in 1:64 scale. As for affixing it, just Google "ballasting model railroad track" and you will get lots of info on how to do it. Most involves "wet water" and Elmers glue or acrylic matt media.

I wonder if they now sell full-size decals separately? More profit that way.

I am tuning in and waiting with baited breath to follow that thread. Sounds like a fun one.

yOUR POST AMUSED ME. hOW ABOUT PEOPLE WHO USE ODD WRITING STYLES¿ iHAVE TROUBLE DEALING WITH THOSE ADULTS.

DJ, you just provided some technical info. As I see it, this thread went off the rails way earlier with this statement from Mike: "I think a Nova's real wheelbase is 111" on the left, and 114" on the right, with the differenct built in to the rear axle. That's how you get that sweet ofset (Beagle) tracking." I would be interested to see a rear axle designed with a 3 inch offset. Where do such ideas come from?