peteski

Not sure why you aren't seeing it Mike. TO me it is clear as day that this is a Vernier caliper. Maybe we live in alternate universes? Which might be true because I went to the HF website and could not find the set of outside calipers shown in this thread.

That *IS* a Vernier caliper - just arranged differently than typical Vernier calipers. I also likely has lower resolution (basically you get what you paid for).

Too bad you made the subject line so generic - something like "Looking for 1:64 scale gravel material" might have been a bit more informative. 1:64 is well within the range of model railroading scales. If you have a hobby shop which caters to model railroaders you should be able to find something appropriate. I think that N scale ballast material (it comes in several colors and coarseness) would be good representation of gravel in 1:64 scale. As for affixing it, just Google "ballasting model railroad track" and you will get lots of info on how to do it. Most involves "wet water" and Elmers glue or acrylic matt media.

I wonder if they now sell full-size decals separately? More profit that way.

I am tuning in and waiting with baited breath to follow that thread. Sounds like a fun one.

yOUR POST AMUSED ME. hOW ABOUT PEOPLE WHO USE ODD WRITING STYLES¿ iHAVE TROUBLE DEALING WITH THOSE ADULTS.

DJ, you just provided some technical info. As I see it, this thread went off the rails way earlier with this statement from Mike: "I think a Nova's real wheelbase is 111" on the left, and 114" on the right, with the differenct built in to the rear axle. That's how you get that sweet ofset (Beagle) tracking." I would be interested to see a rear axle designed with a 3 inch offset. Where do such ideas come from?

I have not tried this but I know that hot glue (one you use in craft glue guns will quickly come of any smooth surfaces after applying some 91% Isopropyl Alcohol to the glue joint. Maybe that will work on the edging, but since the wood is porous, it might not work as well. Then you could try stronger solvents like lacquer thinner or acetone. None of them should affect the wood itself (unless the wood surface has a clear coat). Try it out.

Yup, just like many other things around us nowadays.

Welcome Kat! While this forum is a type of social media, it is in an old-school format which has been around before other types of social media were even around. It is not Facebook, X, Instagram or others, but you can still learn lots of things here, with a large membership of experienced modelers. I'm not on any of the other versions of social media, and I find this forum more than adequate for my needs. That is not to say that other members aren't on other social media sites, but to me this forum works best.

Noel, if you look at the link in the post above yours, Steve explains what it is. I also like to mention that most clear films used by modelers are not Acetate. I guess going back to early days acetate was likely the only clear plastic film available to modelers. The name stuck and it is often used to describe any clear film modelers use, even if the actual film is made of Polystyrene, Acrylic, Nylon, Polycarbonate, PET, or PVC (Vinyl), as those are more widely available to the hobbyists. Actual Acetate is still available, but not generally used in the modeling circles. "Acetate" became a generic, kind of like "Kleenex" is used to describe any facial tissue. No big deal, but one needs to remember that all of those different types of plastic have different properties. It doesn't make much difference if all you need is to use as a small flat window, but if you want to thermoform, you might make sure to use the film best suited to it. Some good info is on https://www.grafixplastics.com/grafix-plastics/plastic-film-plastic-sheet-faq/acetate_what/ . Be sure to also read other FAQs (links on the right side of that page.

Tony, considering that the cost of a standard 1st Class stamp seems like has been increasing every 6 months (last increase just in July 13) and now cost 78 cents, that $1.90 doesn't seem all that outrageous. Well cost of mailing anything in general is outrageous!

There are sellers on eBay parting out model kits, but I don't think I've seen them to go as granular as selling individual parts of an engine (like a distributor). If you want the actual parts, I think your best bet would be to go to model show or swap meets where there are dealers who sell old built models for parts. Often, in their parts bins they have engines floating around. You could also post that you are looking for kit's distributors in the Trading Post or Wanted sections. I believe that Norm at RMCoM (Replicas and Miniatures Company of Maryland) had a selection of resin cast distributors based on actual kit parts. Those are high quality resin casting.

Evergreen sells multiple thicknesses of clear polystyrene. I think 0.010" or even 0.005".

Unfortunately the Spare Time Shop closed few years ago. Paul Skopecki's shop was a fun place to shop. It was bulging with all sorts of kits from the floor to the ceiling. It was a bit cramped, but that also gave it that old-school hobby shop vibe. I used to visit it several times a year. When our club made the annual trek to the NNL East, we always stopped by it when going back home. Paul also gave club members a good discount. Hobby Emporium is larger than the Spare Spare Time Shop, it is brighter and feels more open. They also have several people on the staff, and they are pretty knowledgeable. They have really large range of paints from various manufacturers and then also have full selection of model RR items (in N and H0). Spare Time Shop had a very small model RR section with mostly old items. The prices are on the high side, but if you can prove you are an active model club member, they will give you a discount on most kits.

Ok, here we go: Quoting https://www.wd40.com/products/ez-reach/ WD-40 Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. I'm not suggesting to fill your engine crankcase with WD40. It is not that type of lubricant. The way it protects metal is by leaving thin oily film on the bare metal parts, which act as a barrier to water and oxygen (which cause corrosion). Because the lubricant in it is dissolved in its low viscosity solvent it can penetrate stuck parts to lubricate them. To prove it is a lubricant spray some WD40 into a small container (like a bottle cap, and let it sit for few days. After the solvent evaporates you will see a viscous honey-colored oily liquid. That is the lubricant. There isn't much, but it is there. Also nothing is mentioned about using it as a cleaner, but if someone enterprising person wants to, they are more than welcome to do that. Hey, if Coca-Cola can be used as a rust remover, why not use WD40 as a cleaner.

It would take a long time to mention all my favorite food items discontinued over the years. I often kept parts of their packaging just to remind me how miss them. As you mentioned, many seemed like they were good sellers, Then of course are the mega-mergers causing the combined company to drop some products. Not happy about it. My little world of pleasures is getting smaller and smaller.

What are you planning on using it for? Are you sure it will be safe for the pressures you are planning for it? Exploding metal tanks are not fun to be around of.

Tool? It is a lubricant. It has hundreds of uses, but I'm not sure if I call lubricants "tools".

Maybe I'm not clear about this. When a human picks up the scammers call and starts a live conversation, that tells them that there is someone willing to listen to their spiel. You phone number is tagged as a willing victim (even if you just yell at them). I understand that most people (you included) have some sort of automatic answering machine which will let the caller leave a message. But scammers never leave a message, because there is nothing for them to gain without being able to talk live. That's the point. When the call gets picked up by the answering machine, it is not really useful to scammers. A legitimate call will leave you a message.

Yes and no. In my sailing ship building experience I learned out that ships had two kinds of rigging: Standing rigging, and running rigging. Standing rigging (lines which are stationary holding up the masts, etc.) are covered with tar and black). Running rigging is the rigging which was used to set up the sails and other such functions. That rigging had to remain flexible and was natural rope color (tan). The ropes molded on those sails are part of the running rigging, so shroud not be black, although the color they are now looks ok to me. As a teenager I built that ship along with several others in the same series although my models were by Airfix, packaged in clear blister packs. The parts breakdown was similar, but they seemed to be smaller scale.

I have a reputation! And from a newbie member no less. Awesome! I love it!

To me "dry spray" means the paint was too thick, not enough thinner, so it would dry on the way to the model, creating those webs and wouldn't level out when it hit the surface.

Roughly about half way between Boston and Concord, in Tyngsborough, MA is an excellent hobby shop: Hobby Emporium. They have very large selection of paints and hobby supplies. They carry all sorts of models (Cars, planes, ships, military, and railroad). Then if your wife or you like a bit of gambling, there is The Nash Casino in Nashua, NH, which is basically across the road. It is located in the large Pheasant Lane Mall. There are also several restaurants in the area. There is a small hobby shop, Hobby Bunker in Wakefield, MA (closer to Boston), but it is mainly geared to military modelers. Of course Boston itself is chock full of points of interests. USS Constitution (oldest commissioned Navy ship) is there, Museum of Science in Cambridge is also fun place to visit. I highly recommend Duck Tours where you can see many of Boston's points of interest and also take ride in the Charles River. Last time I took that tour, I got on at the Museum of Science. There are also many other museums in Boston. If you would like to get a bird's eye view of Boston, there is View Boston observation area on the top of the Prudential Tower.

Well, I tried it when it first become available and unfortunately I had an opposite experience. Yes, it removes paint well but it also attacks (softens) plastic to the point that it can be easily dented or otherwise damaged. I let them know about this. They still continue selling the product which is basically their relabeled wood furniture stripper. On their website you will also now see this warning: IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT USING QCS MODEL SAFE PAint Remover: QCS Model Safe Paint Remover is safe for most plastics, but it should not be used on 3D printed items. QCS Model Safe Paint Remover can be used to submerge the items being stripped, but should not be left unattended for more than 15 to 30 minutes. Check your items to be sure that no damage occurs due to over-exposure. Stripwell is no longer part of my mode paint stripping arsenal. I'm glad to know that it works for you. Here is some additional info: