BigTallDad

Consider using fingernail clippers to trim the outside of the piece

I'll see your post and raise you I'm sorry, but this is too much.

Microscale has a product called MICRO SOL and it is a setting solution.

You also might want to look here, in the event you have other questions http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/79627-how-do-i-search-for-answers-already-posted-here/

What with all the folks staying home, the Internet in general seems a bit sluggish.

I know you're a newbie, but you're asking questions that have already been answered numerous times. You might want to do some research before you ask your next question. Here's a start http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/79627-how-do-i-search-for-answers-already-posted-here/

What scale is the diorama? You might run into the situation where the text would be so small that font wouldn't be noticeable.

Great tip. A similar approach might be used to simulate carbon fiber.

Absolutely stunning! Does that car have a radio (which, along with a heater, was optional back then)? I didn't see an antenna.

I use a black sharpie

It would seem you have everything to do some testing...let us know the results.

A google search will answer that question.

Get a non-metallic color, then add silver Pearl X (available at Michael's) to it. Do some experimentation, using varying amounts of Pearl X, before you apply the finish coat.

Nice resto work. I've never seen a convertible (or any other two-door/two-seat) with fixed seat-backs on the front seat.

I agree.

I totally concur!

Another approach to consider... Go on ebay and find mirrored plexiglas; it's typically 1/8" thick. While you're there, get a clear plastic display case or two. Cut the plexiglas the same length as the base, and about 3" wider (some experimentation might be required, based on the height of the display case) than the base. When the plexiglas is installed on the inside of the case (strictly on a temporary basis, no cement should be used), it will be at an angle. Setting the model on the top of the case, which will allow the underside of the model to be seen via the plexiglas mirror. Several advantages to this approach: Transporting the model is safer, because it's in the case while in transit. At the contest, remove the model, insert the plexiglas mirror, place the top on the base, and set the model on top of that contraption. Your model will stand out, because it is higher off the display table and can catch judges' eyes more easily (psychological stuff). There should be no need for the judges to handle the model in order to look at the underside because of the mirrored plexiglas.

My club has a show (we hope) on March 28. At 77 years old with respiratory problems, I won't be attending.

Nice touch on the reservoir bottles...showing them half full (or half empty, depending on your mind-set).

As has been mentioned before, it depends on the contest. If, however, the contest is being judged under IPMS guidelines, models may (and should) be picked up. From the IPMS website: "Models are three-dimensional, scale representations of three-dimensional, full-size articles. For that reason, models will be judged in three dimensions. Because the bottom of the model is just as important as the top, judges will handle models to the degree required to judge the entire model consistently."

Most of the shows I attend have free admission. Granted, these are not Regional/National or other prestigious shows.

That sounds awfully high. There's a contest in Central Florida on 3/28 and tables are $25 each, $20 if you get three or more.

Get a vendor table at a model contest.

Don't forget that Florida only issues one plate and it goes on the rear.

As a suggestion, try masking the "Made in the USA" on the underside of the plastic utensil. That will give you a better feeling how the liquid mask will cooperate on small areas.