Canada Jeff

Mike, did you get the automated email from the site with instructions on how to validate your email address? I think that's the last step to finally activate your account there. They do this as an extra sign-up hassle to help weed out the email bots that are just phishing.

I remember seeing a photo of a mid-century Merc in The Rodders Journal recently that had one gold tooth. Is that where you got the inspiration for yours, or is this a "great minds think alike" thing? Very nice work. I like 'em!

Tamiya's flat white acrylic paint does a great job of covering up paint roller goof-ups on ceiling stipple. Knowing the right glue for the right job can help avoid disaster in other projects. Many modeling tools seem to also make excellent scrap booking tools, judging by how often my tool kit gets raided. Years of trial-and-error learning in body work, paint, stance and wheel/tire combo selection make 1:1 car building seem much less intimidating (if only we could learn how to weld in scale too!). Perhaps most importantly, modeling skills like patience, planning, observation, determination, detail orientation and creative problem solving have infinite uses in all aspects of your life.

How about "El Green-go"? Excellent paint work, by the way. I just drooled on my keyboard.

I believe it's a 351 Windsor, but someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Wow... I had no idea the injection pressures were that high. I guess there's my simple answer; air bubbles don't stand a chance under that kind of pressure. Thanks to everyone for chipping in their $0.02 here. Now my fevered mind can rest again.

I think you are right, Aaron. As far as I know, quad headlights on American cars began in '58. Maybe the police car travelled back in time to 1954 and was caught on film? EDIT: D'OH! Paul beat me to it by mere seconds!! The time travel joke cost me valuable typing time.

Just a straight ahead box stock build for this one (well, aside from the lakes pipes). The scallops are all paint work. Still a couple fine brush touch-ups to do on the chrome, but that's for tomorrow. This one will eventually be a gift for a co-worker who just got a promotion. I have a picture of a 1:1 just like it on my screen saver, and he always stops in mid-sentence to drool over it when it shows up in the rotation. I think he’ll dig it. Not my best work ever, but it turned out OK, I guess. Hope you enjoy….

There's probably a simple answer to this. We've all seen short-shot parts before, but why isn't it more common to see small air voids in the fine detail areas of injection moulded parts? Anyone who's played around with, or even just researched resin casting knows that air bubbles can easily be trapped and you have to plan out your moulding, venting and pouring to try to minimize the risks of air voids. In fact, filling "pin holes" is such a common part of working with resin parts that we take it as just a normal part of the deal. When you look at some of the fine detail of injection moulded kit parts (like the tiny bumps on a distributor cap where plug wires would attach, or small knobs on dash boards, etc), why is it so very uncommon that we find air bubble voids in our kit parts? Molten styrene injected into the tools has to displace the air that's already in there in order to fill all the cavities, and I'm sure the kit producers try to speed up the production process as much as possible, so it seems to me that the faster you fill the tools with styrene, the more likely it would be to trap air in a small engraving cavity. Anybody out there know the facts? This idea crept into my head a few days ago, and it's driving me nuts because I can't think of a simple answer!

Do you suppose that ARDUN headed flatty will drop into Revell's '32 ford frame? I guess I'll find out soon enough... I snagged a 3W coupe for Christmas, and just ordered two '50 truck kits from Model Express just for the engines! A hoodless highboy with an ARDUN equipped mill is in my future! Wow... Revell is really stepping up to the plate recently. Please signal your approval with your dollar-votes loud and clear so they know we appreciate their efforts!

Uh oh... I don't like the sounds of this. I have an open order with Perry's that should be coming due in a few weeks (order placed November 20th, allow 6 to 8 weeks for delivery like they say, add another few weeks to that for Christmas break and mail slow-downs). I was anticipating the delivery towards the end of this month or early next. I guess I'll keep watching the mail and see how it develops. Jeez -- I had heard good things about them before, I hope everything's OK.

Then you have to polish the rest of the WHOLE FLOOR! Clean it up quick with some windex and a paper towel before the Mrs. sees!! Windex also works great for cleaning your airbrush afterwards too. Any dried spots will be gently disolved by the amonia in the Windex.

I'm also a fan of Future. I air brush it as a clear coat and have been very happy with the results. I'm a little surprised that nobody has chimed in yet to tell us how LOUSY it is and that it's total ######. Seems like whenever this topic is raised on.... another forum for scale auto enthusiasts, somebody pipes up with some nonsense about how crappy Future is and that it has no place in model building. Disregard the nay-sayers and ebrace the Future!!

Hmmm... I was afraid of that. Two part putty was my first thought, but I like the almost unilmited working time of Sculpey instead of being "on-the-clock" with two part putty. I'm not a great sculpter, so I would like to take my time. I guess I'd rather fight the clock and work quickly than fill the house with potentially toxic fumes and ruin some perfectly good resin parts. I've used Tamiya's two part putty as well as Miliput before, and each have their disadvantages. Thanks for the feedback. Not quite the answer I was hoping for, but better safe than sorry. Cheers.

Hello all. I have a bit of an odd question here. How hot can cured resin safely get? For example, if you had a resin part that you wanted to scuplt something else on using that Sculpey polymer clay, would the resin piece stand up to the head of the oven when you tried to cure the Sculpey? For the sake of argument, let's say you're trying to sculpt a custom wide body kit out of Sculpey on a resin car body. The actual application I am wondering about is an off-topic figure modeling project, but you guys know more about resin than anybody else I've found. What happens to cured resin at high temperatures? Does it become pliable? Does it melt? Does it give off toxic fumes? If anybody out there has experience with heating cured resin parts, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

Trumpeter's '60 Pontiac kit has a very nice frame, with very detailed suspension. That might work for you too, but that kit is a bit more expensive than the other alternatives listed, just for robbing parts out of.

I just have some old junk right now. Under the junk on the roof is a 78 Mustang II. It's progressed a little since that photo was taken, but it's still pretty rough around the edges: ...and I just dragged this old boat out of the bushes last month. It's a 1960 Pontiac. Should make a nice cruiser one day.

Thanks Ken. Here's a better profile shot of that one... That really is a fantastic kit. Pick one up if you get a chance, it's very well engineered and bulds up quite nicely. My best friend has a 1:1 quite like it, but his is still in "kit form" waiting for him to assemble and paint it. I built this one to motivate him. It doesn't seem to have worked.

Hi all. I'm one of the new schmucks that's been crowding the place up lately. I thought I would put up some of my recent builds as sort of an introduction. Those who hang around the SA board, or even the Sunday Model Shows on the HAMB will have seen all of these before, but for the rest of you, here's some stuff for your enjoyment (hopefully).... First, a couple of customs. A good old 49 Merc (this one's a Testor's metal body kit) and a Lindberg 53 Ford: I rarely build replicas of real cars, but these two are significant to me. Ed Roth's Mysterion, and Gray Baskerville's 32 roadster: Last, AMT's old reliable 40 Ford sedan delivery, chopped and dropped to the ground, Jimmy Flintstone's "Leadstone" body on an AMT 51 Chevy chassis, and two of the finest from the Fighting 501st: (I threw in the Clone Trooper figures just for a laugh.... gawd, I am a massive nerd!) Thanks for looking. Great community you've got here. I'm looking forward to spending more time checking it out and learning from you folks.

Hey there. I'm Jeff from Calgary, Canada. One of the new guys around here. I've been building for about 25 years, since I was around 7 years old. My Dad used to build before us kids came along (and a little bit afterwards), and I got this disorder from him. I'm mostly a "Rod and Custom" sort of guy. I haven't posted any of my builds on this board yet, but I'll try to get some photos up this weekend. A little personal info: Married the best woman in the world (5 years this month), one cat who likes to steal model parts, currently no kids, but we have one on back-order (in the process of adopting a child from Ethiopia). Nice to meet ya. Thanks for hosting this little party. Who's next?

MIKE!! Good to see you made the jump too. Nice looking car as always. I dig the old cop cars!

There are probably as many answers to this question as there are model contests out there. Best to check with the group making the decision at the specific contest you have in mind. The local contest I usually enter each spring (just some local boys, not an NNL or IPMS affilated group) would require that car to be in their "box stock" category. The only way they would let it into the "custom" category would be if it had at least one modification done done by the builder.

.... any by removing the cap and squeezing the tube you have RUINED its aftermarket collector value! You FOOL!!

Howdy all. Just joined up and I see lots of familiar names around here already. Let's see if I got this avatar and sig stuff figured out......