Marc @ MPC Motorsports

The guys in the shop are working overtime this weekend. It's starting to feel like an episode of "Overhaulin". I masked off the body with Tamiya masking tape and 3M Blue Painters Tape for Delicate Surfaces, then applied two coats of Tamiya white primer and two coats of Tamiya TS-27 Matt White. Before the top was applied, I masked the body off and painted the rear taillight panel with Testors Flat Black Lacquer. It a big block car and Chevrolet applied this treatment to all big block Gen 2 Camaros. Here is a close up of the top, which shows the molded in texture. Enjoy!!!

Other than the packaging and the price, I doubt there is any difference.

Not too shabby for your first attempt. I couldn't draw flames if I traced a template. I bet you figure it out real soon.

Yes, I did.

Very nice!!! Every model I do is an exercise of skills. Some of my favorite buids began as a paint experiment. What size are the CL's, 19" or 23"? I like how you black washed them too. Great job!!!

The paint gods told me that this was a good day to try out the new Testors One Coat lacquers, in particular, Icy Blue. This is the first model I've used this paint on and I really like the stuff. It goes on heavier than Tamiya and really levels out nicely. I did 3 color coats and 3 coats of Testors Wet Look Clear on the Camaro. At this early stage I might not even polish it as it looks that good. I masked the top off before I painted it since it will be white. It will spend the night in the dehydrator. Tomorrow, I hope to mask the body and paint the taillight panel with matt black, then, after another stint in the dehydrator, mask and paint the vinyl top with Tamiya Matt White. The paint has a lot of "sparkle" to it, so it will not be well suited to replica stock builders. But, for race cars, street machines, rods and customs, this paint is for you. I also bought a can of Mystic Emerald Green. I'll try to do a spoon test on this one while I'm in the painting mood. Enjoy!!!

Kyle, If you are going to really detail the interior, do it in tan as light colors show your detail better than dark colors. Marc

This topic has been cussed and discussed ad infinitum on the Spotlight Hobbies message board and I'm sure countless others too. Paypal is awesome. Just go open a free checking account that is SEPARATE from the bank and account that you do your everyday banking. Link this one to your Paypal account. I've done this for five years with no problem You can also get a Paypal debit card, which you can use in an ATM to withdraw money from Paypal. If you sell and take Paypal, you can transfer money to the linked bank account and you get the money in 3-4 days. If people want to participate in today's e-commerce world, they need to drop the 18th century methods of payment and embrace Paypal. I understand not wanting it forced on you. But, if you read Ebay's complete statement, it reads, "items paid with check or money order are 80% more likely to result in an item not received (INR) than those paid with credit card or PayPal. Also, buyers who pay with check or money order are 50% more likely to leave negative feedback than those who pay with electronic methods". The vast majority of Ebay problems involve payments with other than a credit card or Paypal. Ebay is eliminating a source of frustration for themselves and the buyers and sellers there. That's a smart move IMHO. I think those that are complaining about this change are definitely in the minority. If the cost of Paypal is a problem, raise your prices to cover the expense. Three percent is a small price to pay to receive instant payment and the guaranties for both buyers and sellers that Paypal offers. Add up the cost of driving to the store to purchase the money order, the cost of the MO, envelope and postage to mail said MO, the cost of your time doing these activities, and the time to wait to see if your MO arrives, it will far outweigh the Paypal fee. Just hope that the MO doesn't get lost in the mail and you need to replace it. It will cost you anywhere from $15-25 to stop pay and get your money back. I know, because I did this last year. Better keep your receipts too. Want to have proof that the seller received your MO? It will cost you about $5.50 to send Certified Mail with return receipt. Paypal now looks like the bargain of the century.

Thanks. You can send that Charger to me if you like. No, I just got it about two weeks ago. As for the other one, I'll probably get back to it as soon as I finish this one.

Thanks! Probably. The AMT shorty one piece spoiler is engraved like a three piece, so I still need to smooth it.

Got her up on all fours tonight... Rolling stock consists of the ubiquitous "big n little" Pegasus T's. Also used a new tool for the first time. I added a .010" x .020" strip of Evergreen around the vinyl top to enhance the weak AMT engraving. Used a Touch Flow liquid cement applicator and man is that a neat tool. Enjoy!!!

Great work, Ron. I don't know about you, but I love resurrecting old build models, especially when they turn out like this.

Bought this one as a built up on Ebay. It was a frankenstein kit as it had a 1973 front bumper, the vinyl top body from the 1970 annual combined with the guts of the 1990 AMT 1970 Z28 kit with the bad nose. Here's what it looked like when I received it. I dismantled it and put it in the purple pond for a swin. 48 hours later the paint did not budge. So, I applied Easy Lift Off and was able to remove the paint. The clear must have been urethane as the ELO just made it loose and sticky. After I stripped the paint, I found a badly crazed body. After lots of careful sanding and priming, I now have a presentable body. Underneath the Bandit Resins cowl hood will be an EFI motivated 396, built using the kit motor and the EFI from the AMT '70 Chevelle SS kit. Paint will be Tamiya TS-54 Light Metallic Blue with a white vinyl top. Hopefully, this will be a fun, fast build because I plan to keep things simple. Enjoy!!!

I'll second James' choice, Len. Tamiya French Blue over white primer is as close as you're gonna get.

I'm watching this one too as I'm doing a quickie restomod of an AMT 1970 annual with the molded in vinyl top. Send me a PM as I might have some parts you can use on yours. These vintage metal axle kits can be built into works of art. Too many of you guys are quick to write them off due to their lack of details as compared to their modern brotheren. Look in you vault of unbuilt kits and pull one of these old gems out and have FUN!!!

This is my first completion in 15 months since I finished the red '73 Trans Am. It feels really good to get back to the bench and accomplish something. I've listed the major details of the build below. The body is a Resin King '68 Coronet R/T that was a real challenge to get looking this good. I used a chassis from an AMT '69 Charger Daytona and an interior from an AMT '69 GTX. The front seats are resin copies from a Revell Dodge Magnum and the gauges are custom white faced units from Keith Marks. Paint is Duplicolor Super White with Tamiya TS-13 clear. The R/T stripe is from Fred Cady and the R/T emblems are Model Car Garage photoetch. The six pack hood is a BRP Resin piece that I mastered. The engine is from the Charger Daytona with resin cast M/T valve covers. Intake system is from the AMT '70 Coronet pro street kit, as are the drive pullies and alternator. The wiper motor and master cylinder came from a Revell '69 Charger kit. Wheels and tires are 19" Aoshimas with black painted spokes and resin Brembo disc brakes. Other details include door handles and a rear view mirror from the Revell '69 Charger kit and a rear wing from a Revell '71 Hemicuda. The '69 GTX kit gave up its glass and the chrome bumpers and grille came from Modelhaus. Enjoy the pics.

Welcome back, Kyle. I'm just now scratching my way back to the workbench after a 7 month hiatus. I know how you feel about the aftermath of your boy's havoc. My model room looks like that every day.

Thanks, Mark!!! Glad it's working for you. I've been away from the board and the bench for awhile and just saw this thread and thought I would find my how to and post the link.

Here's a tutorial I posted awhile back. It's a little bit different in method but the results are similar. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...ocking+tutorial

After a two month hiatus from the bench, I'm back putting the finishing touches on the Coronet. I'm about half way thru the BMF tonight. Here's a shot of the rear with the photoetch R/T emblem and the taillighs installed. The taillights are backed with embossed chrome mylar from a "AAA" sticker. The chassis and engine compartment are complete except for the radiator. Engine is from the same AMT '69 Daytona Charger that donated its chassis. Front belts, alternator, intake, carbs and aircleaners from AMT '69 GTX. The GTX also donated the wiper motor and a Revell '69 Charger gave up its master cylinder. I resin cast the valve covers and scratchbuilt the distributor and added photoetch pulley faces. Enjoy!!!

After a two month hiatus I was able to push life aside and assume the position at the workbench and get back to work on the Coronet. Cut and polished some aluminum tubing for exhaust tips. Attached the rear axle/exhaust assembly to the chassis and installed the tips. I just love the menacing look of a B Body Mopar with big pipes out the back! Never mind the rear bumper. That's still the bumper from my '69 Coronet builder that I've been using for mock ups. I have new Modelhaus '68 bumpers ready to install.

Milt, I recommend Pace Paint Booths. I purchased the Peacekeeper Deluxe in early 2007. Best $400 I've spent on my hobby. It's pretty big and might not work with your closet but you could look at the other models. I like the big one because it has the largest fan and the shelf on the front is great for setting paint cans and other stuff on while you work. The biggest selling point for me is that Pace uses common pleated household air filters that you can purchase for cheap almost anywhere. Try purchasing the special filter materials that Paasche, Badger, and the others use at Wal-Mart or your local hardware store. There is an email address on the website, but the best way to contact Bob Pace with questions or to order is via the toll free phone number. Bob is a super nice guy that knows his stuff. Hope this helps.

I think Keith Marks can help you here. His '65-72 Chevelle decal set has the necessary items for your conversion. Contact Keith at mofobow@hotmail.com to order a set.

Effing it up with the window frames was nothing compared to the on-road destruction that took place against Kurt Russell's Charger.

Reliable Resin has it. Email ReliableResin@aol.com to order direct.