ShakyCraftsman

Hey all This is my 1/25 scale Loadking drop nose lowboy trailer build. I started this as a drawing on paper of a trailer that I wanted to build for the AMT D8H bulldozer that I'm in the process of making. While I was scouring the internet for pictures I came across a 3D model of a 3 axle 55 ton Loadking drop nose trailer for a free download. It has air ride suspension, flip up rear axle has all of the out riggers and "D" rings. I also came across a 4 axle 100 ton drop nose lowboy trailer 3D model that I downloaded. It has spring suspension and flip up rear axle. It only has a 14' well, no out riggers or "D" rings. I plan on modifying it into a 27' well with air ride suspension, out riggers and "D" rings. It does have a better front nose set up, it has a hydraulic mechanism for supporting the drop nose on the frame of the tractor when not hooked to the trailer, and bigger hydraulic cylinders for lifting the trailer deck. My plans are too combine features of both trailers to make both a 3 axle and a 4 axle drop nose trailer with air ride, out riggers and "D" rings. Here are some pictures of the Cad models. this view is looking from the front aft of the 3 axle 55 ton Loadking drop nose lowboy trailer. this view shows the rear of the trailer looking forward. view looking down at the deck of the trailer. this view shows the bottom of the trailer. this view is of the 4 axle 100 ton trailer Cad model. this is a view from the rear looking forward this is a side view of the trailer. this view shows the front nose and mechanism for supporting the nose on the tractor frame. this view shows the bottom of the trailer and the spring suspension. That's it for now be back soon with more updates. Ron G

Hey all This is my Revell 1/25 Peterbilt 359 4 axle heavy haul tractor. I'm making this from the Revell "can do" wrecker kit. I started this by assembling the frame and suspension. I also stretched the frame a scale 2 feet so that I could add two extra tanks, 4 fuel tanks in all. I also added a step in between the two tanks on the drivers side. This rig will have Scenes Unlimited 10 hole Alco wheels, Bridgestone L375 445/65R 22.5 front floats, Bridgestone M710 285/75R 22.5 drive tires and Michelin "X" 445/50R 22.5 super singles on a lift axle. this view shows the frame. this view shows the frame and front steerable front axle. this view shows the frame next to the frame of my Kenworth W925 gravel train tractor. this view shows the whole thing just temporarily put together for pictures. view from the other side. another view showing the headache rack. view from the front looking aft. view from the rear looking forward. I have a aluminum fender kit that will cover all three rear axles. this figure is from the 1/24 Airfix Mosquito kit. I modified him by removing his officers hat and turnig it into a baseball cap. I also turned his shoes into cowboy boots. another view of the driver figure for this big Pete. this view shows the Pete heavy haul that I modeled up in NX 11 (Unigraphics). this view is from the aft looking forward. this view shows the rear of the rig this is a side view of the 4 axle Peterbilt 359. I also have a 3 axle 24' well Loadking drop nose trailer with flip up rear axle, a 4 axle drop nose trailer with flip up rear axle, a Caterpillar 336E excavator and I'm working on a Cat D8H/K and D8T bulldozer. These are modeled up in NX11 and I my be able to 3D print parts of them on my 3D resin printer. Since I modeled them full size I should be able to print them to any scale. Well that's it for now be back with more updates soon. Ron G

Hey ReduitRetro Sweet build! Hey you should turn that Cummins into a NTC-475 twin turbo! A lot of Petes ran those back in the day, and you can get them to put out 800 hp! they sure look wicked! Ron G

Hey MD The tubs will be aluminum and the chassis will be black. Ron G

Hey Mopar D I'm thinking along these lines. Orange and Black (my birthday colors) Ron G

Hey all Well lets get started with some pictures. this will be the tractor for the gravel train. It will have Hayes 5 spoke 24.5 wheels & Bridgestone tires from Scenes Unlimited. I added a hydraulic tank just behind the sleeper for running the dump cylinders on the dump trailers. this view shows the trailer kits I will be using.The front trailer is 24' long (OOB) the rear trailer will be modified to 18' long from the stock kit one by cutting out a scale 6' section. this kit is for parts. I used the dolly parts from this kit to make a tandem dolly. The wheels are a little different then the ones in the gravel trailer kit, but there pretty close. So far I have the frame for the tractor assembled, ready for paint. I started on the front dump trailer, and I have the frame assembled for it. I started on remaking the hydraulic cylinder for it, but it came out to big in diameter, I used plastic tube and should have used aluminum tubing instead. So I ordered some Aluminum tubing and I'm remaking the cylinders right now. I have the tandem dolly scratched up and ready for paint. So here are some more pictures for you all. this view shows the tractor. this view shows the front dump trailer. this view shows the scratch built tandem dolly. this view shows the Bridgestone L375 445/65R 24.5 front floats. I reworked the front Scenes Unlimited Hayes 5 poke wheels into float wheels with some bits from my spares box.2 this view shows the front dump trailers wheels/tires this view shows the dolly's wheels/tires. this view shows the air, electrical and hydraulic connections. this view shows the glad hands (aftermarket) tge electric connector made from scratch and tge hydraulic connector made from scratch. closer view of the connectors. Well tgats ut for now be back soon with more updates. Ron G

Hey all I'm new here as you can all imagine. I'm 69 going on ancient...lol. I've been modeling off and on since I was 7 years old. I hVe a few projects going on at the moment. First one is I'm reworking the Revell 1/25 " Can do " wrecker into a 4 axle stretched heavy haul tractor. Second one is I'm building from scratch and 3D printed parts a 1/25 scale 48' Loadking drop nose lowboy trailer. Third is I'm doing the 1/25 scale AMT D8H bulldozer with a lot of extra details that will be the load for the trailer. And fourth I'm making a "Michigan gravel train" from the 1/25 AMT Kenworth W925, two AMT 1/25 gravel trailers and the dolly from the AMT 1/25 double trailer kit. I plan to do some build threads on all of these, as long as I don't have trouble posting pictures from my phone. Ron G

Hey Jrb53 She already knows how to drive, she can't anymore cause of a bum right arm, and she ain't that light...lol RonG

Thanks Dave, it is defiantly alot of fun. Now if I can just turn off the volume on the wife it would be perfect.

Thanks all I haven't been working on it for the last week. Been messing with this 2017 Challenger 392 T/A in Gomango orange. Got tired of climbing in and out of my lifted jeep jk wrangler.getin to old for that but not for this...IT'S F'N ASSUME!!! It's got 485hp/475lbs-ft cold air intake and does the Quarter mile in the low 12's.

Hey all Here's some more pics to look at. I starting on the interior panels these are just temporary for fitment purposes only.So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG

Hey Xx Rusty Xx What quadruple turbo? The motor I'm using has 2 turbos not 4. With the right combination you could theroiticly make in the neighborhood of 2500 hp. RonG

Thanks geetee66 I'm still trying to improve on how the door opens and closes, It's not quite there yet, plus I still have to replicate it for the other side then I can get on to the interior. Thanks RonG

Hey all Here's some more pictures to look at.This view shows that I finally cut the body for the tilt front end.Another view showing the tilt front end.This view shows the opening front door.View from the inside of the front door.View of the front door hinges.View looking through the passenger door aND roll cage.View of the trunk lid.View showing the trunk lid open aND the hinges.View from the bottom showing the hinges and latche.View of the underside of the trunk lid.Another view of the trunk lid from a different angle. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG

Thanks afx and DumpyDan It's slowly getting their one nut and bolt at a time...lol. Here are some more pictures to look at.View of the front axle assembly.View of the drive shaft.View of the rear end assembly, still have to add the bolts to this.This view shows the whole thing kind of temporarily put together.View of the front end and engine.View of the rear end.Another view of the engine.View with the body on.Another view of the front of the body.View looking in through the drivers door.Last view from the front showing the engine. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG

Hey all Well the paint got dry...lol. it's been a while since I posted on this. The engine is put together permanently now. I have all the bolts & nuts added. I made some pop off valve springs for the blower and added a decal to the plate. I mounted the dipstick and distributor with added decal. The frame and roll cage are painted with Tamiya semi gloss black. Here are the pictures.If you look closely you can see that the carb bowls and timing cover have been chromed with a molotow pen.View showing the pop off springs.View showing the decal on the blower burst plate and the pop off springs.View showing the decal on the MSD distributor and the dipstick.This view shows the dipstick aND the chromed bloc of plates for the hemi heads.View of the blower studs and valve cover bolts.This view shows the chromed timing cover and electric motor for the water pump also the soc. hd. scrs. for the timing cover.This view shows the oil filter, the starter and oil pan and pan bolts.View showing the starter and inspection cover.View of the RBMotion radiator hose ends.View of the frame and roll cage.View of the rear end assembly, the front end assembly and drive shaft. I still have to polish the blower scoop and chrome plate it. I also have to add the bolts to the rear end assembly. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG

Hey fast Floyd 2 Thanks Hey NYLIBUD You can get a cheap one for $200-$300 dollars, but the part quality from them is pretty low. You get a part, but by the time you clean it up and rework it, it would probably be easier to scratch build the part. They are improving them and the quality and prices will probably drop so keep looking and keep up with trends. Thanks RonG

Hey NYLIBUD You can get a decent one for around $1500.00, but don't forget that you have to design the parts before you can print them, and that it takes a long time to print them. The tires I'm using on my 65 stang took 11 hours to print and 2 hours to clean up. I'm not trying to talk you out of getting a printer just saying it's not a easy process. My printer (actually it's my son's) cost was just under 2 grand and the materials cost around $150 - $200 dollars a bottle (resin printer) you get about 4 maybe 5 of the tire size parts to a bottle. You need some kind of graphics or cad software and training in how to use it. I'm a retired, 35yrs. Automotive engineering designer. I designed the tooling and fixtures that put the cars together. I started drawing on the board, draftsmen, and changed to Unigraphics, it's called NX now, it is a very sophisticated cad software. I have been trying to get a copy for home, but it's way too expensive in the $30,000.00 dollar range. I'm trying to learn the graphics software that my son uses for his business. There is a learning curve and I'm still learning. I haven't created anything on it yet, my son made the tires for the '65. Like I said I'm not trying to discurage you just giving a heads up. Thanks RonG

Hey Dave Yup from that photo I can tell that I will need alot more room then that. But like I said I won't be doing anything till I have all the parts on hand. Right now I'm waiting on Shapways to finish printing them. Thanks RonG

Hey Dave I can't find that post. I'm pretty sure I need to stretch it, there just isn't enough room with the components I'm using. I did several drawings at the stock length and no mater how I configure the turbos there isn't enough room to get it all in. I won't cut it until I have all of the components on hand. Thanks RonG

Hey all OK...here is the new set of drawings. I think I have it figured out but, I won't know until I get the motor and turbos, they are being printed at Shapways as we speak. They are from Ron Olsen at 3d Specialties. I'm hoping they will be here by the end of this week. The first photo is a side view showing the 9"stretch.These last 2 are photos I downloaded off of the Internet. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG

Hey NYLIBUD Thanks, those were the first go around. I found out that I needed to stretch the body 9" to accommodate the turbos and the exhaust. So I'm working on a new set of drawings. When I get themdone I'll post some pics. Thanks RonG

Hey all Here's some pics of the drawings. 1st is a Side view of the car. 2nd is side & top view of the chassis and motor. 3rd & 4th are shots of the motor and turbos. So look em over and let me know what you think. I know it's not the mountain motor but this one comes with the twin turbo set-up. Thanks RonG

Hey all Well I decided to go with a Brodix BBC from 3d specialties, simulating a 750 cu. In. motor. Went with the twin turbos 3", 26" Goodyear front runners, Billet Specialties Win lite rear wheels and Billet Specialties Win lite front wheels. I started on the drawings of the chassis and the fit of the body. I had to do a drawing of the bbc motor and turbo set-up, basically I have to figure out how to plumb this sucker!! BOY o BOY is it tight. The turbos end up right behind the front bumper and the exhaust wants to dump right into the front tires. Have to do some weird plumbing to get all of it to fit. I have a lot of work to get this ready for building. I will try to get some pics of the drawings tomorrow. Have to go wife's calling for dinner. Thanks RonG

Hey all Just an update, no new pics, but I did get the frame/chassis painted. It's not quite what I hoped for, there's a few flob-ups but they are fixable. I have most of the nuts and bolts attached to the engine and rear end assembly. I am waiting for the paint to dry so I can take some more pictures. So as soon as it's dry I'll get some pics taken. Thanks RonG