Dave G.

I'd go by the spray pattern, is the paint or even the look of spraying water out, even all the way around ? As to Badger, they're pretty easy to work with. There has been more than one 105 owner on here with some sort of problem that Badger either fixed or swapped out a replacement.

I just painted 1/32 1958 T bird white walls that had no really good demarcation on the sidewall,not for these old eyes anyway. I mounted the assembled wheels on a rudimentary mandrill and spun the tires slowly in a cordless drill. Then just touched the paint brush to the side wall. I'm used to wood turning, it's much easier to control circular designs onto a spinning object if they're just straight up dimensions like white walls. Coarse the tire can't wobble, at least not much.

I discovered one day earlier this week that Home Depot has Quick Shine, several iterations of it from cleaners to finish. Just sayin.

I just use full hot tap water when I heat spray cans. Give it a shake every couple of minutes till the can is just comfortably warm after a shake. It doesn't need to be too hot, remember the pressure builds with heat. The paint thins out too and will atomize much better than a cool can will. Tamiya cans I imagine heat quickly, I'm used to things like Rustoleum, Krylon paints, 3M contact cement, acrylic or lacquer clears too and such.

I've turned over to mostly acrylic at this point. Tamiya's X-22 is a good clear. I do still use clear lacquer at times though. It's all on my own whim at the time really.

I'm wondering if the yellowing on your decal sheets is the paper not the film. Look at the circled items that have white in them, I don't see the yellow there. Least not on my screen. But where the film would be clear between other colors the white areas look yellow. I suspect the paper backing has yellowed.

Came out better than I expected from Atlantis, nice work !!

Well enjoy !

I varnish 16x20" acrylic paintings in three coats with the Paasche H and #5 needle set. I shoot vertical and immediately horizontal, a quick heat set with hair dryer, repeat and repeat again. At the right distance it puts down a good 3" path of wet paint per pass. Or you could get an airbrush with a fan nozzle. There are a few out there. They do about the same width but in a straighter line pattern, the H has a round pattern. A touch up gun will work but it's going to require more air volume and the tip size will be about the same as the H. Honestly for 1/16 I use nothing special, I've even done two in lacquer with a .25 tip ! 1/8 ( depending on the model) can use a little more coverage but honestly no more than a spray can puts out. I say that as someone who decades ago shot 1/8 with spray cans and they turned out fine.

Yep

Look for a video from Barbetos Rex on Mica Powders and or Pigment powders.

Also to me it's not all about the kits but airbrushing, mixing colors,. A big one, conquering acrylics (which I have a really good grasp on now that I've experimented, practiced and used them for 8-10 or so years) . I'm as confident with acrylic now as I am with enamel and that hasn't come without sticking it out, experimenting, making thinners etc. I have more shiny, pretty painted prescription bottles than anyone on the planet and I threw a bunch out at that ! Next I think will be mica powders, there is a certain look you can gain from them that I want to learn those ropes.

You hit it on the head Pierre. Besides the idea that not all models interest me the real thing of what I model does. I have to research color charts from 1932, photos etc for instance. Sometimes the history of that model car, engine colors etc. I only go that far if I know there is a kit out there. Now and then I do a theme car or truck, usually 1950s or older, nothing modern at all. But your point of the research being half the fun is true for me as well.

My shelf space fits 12 with closed doors and no cramming with fudge room to get in 2-3 more but I don't. Instead, If I move one out to completion that leaves an open spot to fill in. I mostly like old classics and not every one interests me I look at folks stashes and about 90% of whats in them I have no interest in. It's really simple lol. Now I completed two since last week so there are two open slots that can be filled, don't think my mind hasn't been at work what will fill the two slots..

12, ALL old kits. I'm revisiting my childhood builds. Except I've added some 1/16 classic cars.................... And I absolutely won't pay what they want for a good condition Monogram 1/8 Big Deuce kit these days....

Well congrats on getting them both done !!

All I can think of is they must have run yellow prior and a shot got in the works as the white got going. It's not a real strong yellow but it's there. Stynylrez will block it but the color will be red anyway, it's not as though I'm shooting it white. And at this point I'm planning on acrylic red. I'll decide in the next week if I'm going with acrylic or enamel but I doubt it will matter much.

I opened a new AMT 53 Ford ( coca cola version) pickup kit a couple of weeks ago molded in white, except the rear quarter or so of the bed is yellow ! Now that's a first for me in more than 60 years of building models.

The Monogram Indy car I built way back when was the Kraft car, which was creamish/yellow with red #9, aluminum colored wheels. There are a few at ebay right now actually. Same molds as yours probably.

That looks awesome ! I built one back around 1962 or so, the plastic I believe was cream colored on that one back then. Or similar anyway.

Between this forum and another that I visit there have been several reports of various sorts of 2x not performing over Rustoleum primer. As to a final wipe down I've gone to, for years now, odorless mineral spirits. Just test it on your iteration of resin first, on the inside or on an edge someplace. You don't need to soak it in the stuff just wipe down with a damp cloth or paper towel. You can sand silicone or oils into the surface thinking you're sanding it off fwiw. Not saying you did that but that it can happen.

The lesson in all this is to not use something " as primer" but to use primer. Primer is a real thing an actual product made to stick to the plastic and for paint to stick to it. Primer though even at that comes in variants, from sanding primer, non sanding primer, primer sealer, primer surfacer, lacquer, acrylic, acrylic with urethane polymers or not, enamel and etc. But primers are primers not a decorative paint used as primer.

I have 4 on the bench so to speak waiting simply to be glued together and 12 kits in boxes some started most not started. I'd like to get clear of the 1/32 and 1/25 scale kits to get back to my preference of 1/24 and 1/16 scale classic cars in this year. Or at least put a dent in that direction.

Nice booth and install that should serve you well for years to come.

As to paint blocking glue points I've always scraped away paint there so there is a plastic to plastic glue connection. But how much paint to mix has many variables from model size or surface area to be painted to how heavy you put it on and how many coats, air pressure etc.. For me in Testors though, I like to have two bottles on hand which I mix together in case there is a batch difference, then re bottle. For me that's not so often these days because I've been decanting enamels or shooting base coats in acrylic more so. Mostly craft paint, artist paints or Createx paints for base color coating. Hope any of that helps.