Dave G.

That compressor is Amazons choice , it's not on prime but has free shipping anyway. Really the water trap should be away from the compressor anyway to give air time to recondense or the water in the air I should say. I have a trap to use attached to the side of my booth, it's a Point Zero that I got from Amazon for I think $10. But I have such a large volume of air to tap into that I don't get water in my line, the tank on the compressor might so I just drain it there. That Point Zero trap is well made fwiw. If you're going to Amazon anyway, look around you might find one with a water trap on it but that isn't how I would plumb mine.

Hah, I use a Husky 8 gal compressor. I have it for light car repairs and running my lvlp spray guns and also nail guns. Noisy as all get out ! But I can air it up and proceed to paint a whole model with an airbrush before it needs air again, air it up and good to go when ever. I want to plumb my basement for air too because I do wood turning down there and need a blast of air in my hollow forms. Some folks are liking the quiet series Cambel Hausfield they sell at Walmart but I think it more money than the CAT.

A lot of people like the California Air Tools one, it's quiet not too pricey. The one I'm thinking of is around $108 and has the on board air tank, available at Amazon .Also direct from CAT.

Yes, this actually was why I asked if Goodwrench had an interest in airbrushing, far less and also finer particles. He still probably should run with acrylic where his wife has the sinus problems. At least no fumes. You bring up a good point about cleaning, and too, with acrylic paints it's all the more important because they dry quick in the brush and hard to break down that residue. The Paasche H is a good dependable airbrush for auto models especially. It's a simple functional design and if you bugger something up there aren't many parts and they are inexpensive. I have one myself but really prefer my Badger old school single action 200, it's more than 40 years old now still going. But a Paasche H would give that long term service too. The badger atomizes the paint a little finer being internal mix.. I like the Passche for clear coat sometimes and higher volume jobs like my wifes ceramics where I might clear 25 or 30 pieces in a sitting with Liquitex satin varnish.

Kalmbach is usually pretty good, they put together a nice kit there by the looks of it and we know their publications are good. I think the Neo Airbrush they put in that kit has something on the order of a .30 or .35 needle/nozzle combo. To me this is on the small limit for acrylic paint, I like a bit larger needle because some paints may come pre thinned and often state a needle size generally over .40. Badger Airbrush primer for instance I'm pretty sure is suggested to use a .50 or larger. However that just means you thin a bit more and put down a few more coats. A lot of people use that Neo and love it. If the paint you use is or If you thin what ever paint you use to the consistency of milk, and more specifically 2% milk, it will always atomize and spray down pretty evenly with what ever airbrush you get. Acrylic air pressure you will be good between 25 and 30 lb or so at that consistency as a good starting point. I would hope the kit would address the products and parts in the kit and best settings to start out with.. Edit: You will need an air compressor.

Absolutely, the better filters work, more money of course. Same in your booth fwiw, course if you vent outside that won't matter. You can do a nice job with acrylics. Any thoughts on an airbrush ? And I've found with acrylics you use the color as a base coat and then the clear is the gold mine so to speak, that;s where you build the finish and polish etc. The clear is also a protective coat. How did the Humbrol turn out ? Prayers for your wife that the sensitivity is something that becomes more stable, paint or no paint.

There will be a whiff of paint fumes, you know how solvent paints are/ unless you do everything in that vented booth just opening jars or a body drying is going to out gas.. Dicarding paper towels with paint on them give off odor. But it won't be any worse than her painting her nails. Does she have a problem with that too or is it just your hobby in general ? Allergies maybe ?

How about getting a hose and venting your booth outside ? Acrylics come with a learning curve, you can get good results but I would say acrylic, lacquer and enamel each have their own look. I have not used Humbrol acrylic sprays though. Just seems to me your logical step is to vent your booth and spray what ever you like using.

Ok.

as·sum·ing /əˈso͞omiNG/ conjunction conjunction: assuming 1. used for the purpose of argument to indicate a premise on which a statement can be based. "assuming that the treaty is ratified, what is its relevance?"

I'm assuming he got this H going or he would have been back. Be nice to know for sure though.

In painting the real thing we always painted the lightest color first and masked that off. Bleed was generally found in areas where tape lapped over other tape, I used the back side of a single edged razor blade to make sure it was tucked in well, going over any rises and bumps. It also helps to not direct the spray facing any weak spots and shoot straight onto taped areas otherwise. Don't test the ability of the tape by directing the spray at the seam lines at an angle towards them all. Obviously on a model you will get some cross direction angles, unavoidable to some degree. Make sure your tape is tucked in nice and tight.

I've gone more and more to craft paints since diving into acrylics over the last 18 months or so. Stynlrez primers and usually Liquitex gloss varnish clear coat. But by adding 10% or so of Liquitex satin varnish into many of several different craft paints I find that to improve flex and adhesion/chip resistance. I heat set it then put it aside overnight before continuing on.. The finish on a car body is accomplished with clear coats with acrylics though, don't try to rub out the color coat. If someone wants to have a color buffed up and no clear coat stick with solvent based paints, at least IMO so far. Interiors I add a little more varnish to the paint to get the flat acrylics to the sheen I want, then that I do not clear coat. For thinning craft paints I've made my own thinner after experimenting with various brands and other peoples formulas etc. They spray pretty nice when mixed right and shot in proper temps and at correct pressure. The thinner is fine in the paints but Liquitex clear coat requires it's own airbrush medium as they call it because it will haze with other stuff and might fish eye as well, depending on the product used in it.. So on the acrylic front I'm going more and more this way. I've left most of the hobby brands behind at this point, not to say I won't ever use them but so far, why ?. However, what I do may not be everyone's cup of tea, I realize that. I also spray nail polishes which is lacquer. I'm working on a less fussy lacquer thinner for them. Right now what works best is Kleen Strip hardware store medium dry thinner. I'm going to add a little xylene to that to slow the dry some more and see what happens. I decant Rustolium clear lacquer and spray that with the airbrush when I want a clear coat. Thus far with this set up I've gotten spectacular results on my test prescription bottles but not painted a model with it yet. But you have to get the pressure and distance just right, hoping slowing the dry will be more forgiving. Why nail polish ? Because there are a few colors I see nowhere else and they gloss up gorgeous.

Here is a suggestion for you. Get yourself two little mixing cups. In one put in some milk. In the other put in some AutoAir of the color you want to use. Get yourself a mixing stick, a length of sprue tree will be sufficient. Mix the milk around, slosh it up the sides of the cup, watch how it runs back down, note the film it leaves behind on the cup sides, drip it off the end of the stick, really look it over as you do this till you know what it looks like. Now do the same with the paint ( any paint you go to use not just this auto air, least till you get used to that consistency). You want the paint to be the same viscosity as the milk, thin accordingly until it acts like the milk. Regular milk will work but the perfect consistency/viscosity is 2% milk. And I don't care if the paint company says it's ready to spray or not ! Like Badger Synylrez is ready to spray and it will spray, but really it's a bit too thick. It will spray but it will spray better thinned a little bit. Pretty sure you will find AutoAir needs some thinner ( their own dedicated thinner) and will work best with some 4030 added first, up to 15% or so ( aids in sticking to plastics and flow out on hard surfaces).. In a Paashce H 30 psi, no less than 28 psi working pressure. So if you get a drop in pressure at 30 psi when you push the air button that drops the pressure below 28 psi with air flowing, boost the pressure up a lb or 2 till your flowing or so called working pressure is 28 or higher.. End of suggestion.

Aluminum soda can material, just don't cut yourself getting it apart. On another note, I used to drag race and have seen my share of race cars with aluminum interiors and the tunnel configured square or rectangular if you will. Course I haven't been to the race track in 30 years lol ! But last I knew circle track cars were done that way too. I'd do it square if I was doing this personally but only because I've seen it in real.

Tough government standards to meet in the US for enamel and lacquer paints I imagine. We may or may not ever see these here. I have craft paints working pretty well for me actually, but it's a process most probably wouldn't want to get involved in. Lots of colors though.

A page from Tamiya on their LP ( LP stands for lacquer paint) bottled paints ( I have not read the whole page myself, just sharing it): https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/lacquer/kit82101.htm Edit: Hmmm, seems to be a color chart more than anything, though it does say that a dedicated thinner is available.

Are you spraying the same paints as before the cleaning ? I'm thinking you are trying to spray a thicker mix now than before, spatter is usually too thick a blend or partial clog. It can be clumps of junk in your paint too. Going on dry and sandpaper like is usually from spraying too far away from the subject. The position of the hole in the needle shouldn't matter but I tend to place it in the up position personally. Did your H come as a set with other nozzles and needles ? And 25 psi should work but that depends on the needle used and the thickness of material sprayed. I tend not to use less than 28 psi with mine and often shoot at 30-32. I've shot varnishes at 35. The Paasche H likes air, it's a hefty gun and siphon feed.

Looks like some of my wood working tools after a humid summer.

I've never built an AMT kit that wouldn't fit together and while it's been a long time since I built one I have built many. As to the 51 Chevy, that I have not built and probably never will,since a 51 Chevy doesn't particularly interest me. I would be curious to hear from some folks who have done one successfully though. I looked up some videos on what looked like nice builds of that model and didn't hear anyone complaining about fit.

Ya I do my test painting on empty prescription bottles. I go through the whole process from scuffing the surface and priming on up to what would be the finished model if it were one. You never know when you mix products at what stage things might take a dive.. But to answer your question, I'm using Liquitex gloss varnish on my acrylic paint jobs when I want gloss, I have it in gloss, satin and mat. And I mix the satin in craft paints to get the fabric luster on interiors. Very pleased so far. I signed up for Micheal's coupon program so when I get a coupon for a single item 40 or 50% off is when I buy the varnish. Makes it affordable. The stuff flows out like melted butter, dries crystal clear and has uv inhibitors in it. Works for me anyway.

The fine print says 60db. The CAT (California air tools) one I listed in another thread I believe is 58db and less money with good reviews, and I believe it's lighter weight. But this Master Force is rated to run finish nail guns fwiw.

I've ordered a few items from Amazon myself. I get my Stynylrez primer there and flow aid. I bought a second airbrush there in the past ( Paasche H). I bought new medium and heavy heads and needles there for my Badger 200. I recently bought an AMT 49 Ford Gasman kit there. Many things are on prime or otherwise free shipping if you keep your eyes open. We have a somewhat local Hobby store about 12 miles away, the problem is he thinks his stuff is gold lined, that Gasman kit for instance was $11 more there than from Amazon, plus gas to go drive there and back. The kit was delivered to my door step in 3 days through Amazon. When ever I'm shopping, whether it be models or what ever I find it worth looking at Amazon first and very often it's as far as I have to go.

If I was buying an airbrush only compressor right now I'd be entertaining the idea of this one, which is $92 at Amazon: California Air Tools CAT-1P1060S Light & Quiet Portable Air Compressor, Silver

I recently stripped some chrome parts from the chrome tree of a kit from out of the 80's era. I used Drano gel formula ( it's in a red bottle). It took the chrome off in about 3 minutes, just dissolved it and I rinsed it down the drain. It stripped it to bare plastic and the plastic seemed untouched and took primer very well the next day. I probably wouldn't leave it to soak over night, not sure what would be left in the morning but my experience was such that just a few minutes is all that was required anyway. I'd probably just sand down and paint over the flat black personally.