Dave G.

Thought someone might have a ball park idea ? It says 1/25 scale, no mention of real tire diameter or width. I'd like to fit some slicks inside the fender wells of the AMT 49 Ford in 1/25th. Probably 28"x9 or 10"x rim size 15". I don't mind massaging the fender wells but I have no interest in radiusing wheel wells or full tubbing for this build at least. I want to keep a street and strip look. I know the big slick set would be too large, or assume so anyway.

Ya time goes by, I started building models when I was about 7, that was 1957. At ten though, I rode my bike to either the hardware store where they sold some kits and supplies or better, across the city to the hobby store. I also got a paper route and made my own purchases, dad wasn't fond of the cost of my habit, since he gave me a $.35 allowance and the cost of a kit was outside my weekly chore money and I seemed to want more than one a month plus paint and supplies( I think an AMT 32 or 40 Ford kit was $1.25 back then). My paper route kept me well supplied with money left over, even a small savings account and I didn't hurt dads beer money ever again, not even purchasing a new bicycle to get around on, since parents in those days just plain didn't cart you around where ever you wanted to go.. At least not mine anyway.

I like that ! Where did you acquire the y block from ? Love the quick change and transverse spring, I've got a 26 T kit with a Jag rear end I really don't like and was thinking exactly that a quick change or even conventional rear end with transverse spring would appeal to me way more. Your work is inspiring.

I have a Revell 26 Ford T sedan delivery street rod "Lil John's" I can't seem to get the steam up to even open it. It's been in a closet probably since the 80's still in original wrap. I think I keep it because it's small block Ford powered instead of Chevy. Hate the Jag rear end, wish it was a regular sedan instead of delivery but yet I leave out hope for some inspiration one day. The older I get the less it interests me really but I did move it from the closet to next to my living room chair.. It's collecting dust there now.

I don't think I'm changing anything at this stage of life in terms of brands, have had good luck with both Badger and Paasche in terms of function and support, for 40+ years in the case of Badger, less time with Paasche. And actually they are both supported in the aftermarket well anyway ( genuine parts through dealers).

Well it's a quality tool and will last you a lifetime.

Hah ! Now you gotta spray some 2% milk through it and let us know how it flows lol ! Seriously though, that looks great. Sure is a pretty looking AB.

I don't always use the side cup with my 200 either. I find it lends itself well to little jobs where just a little paint will be used. Also testing paints for color and flow where quick changes may be made. I find the metal color cup has it's uses for me but I wouldn't want to be without the jars for more volumes of paint, especially with the large needle and nozzle combo. ( that can really go through the paint, especially if you screw up and use the medium needle like I did once). .

That knurled fitting to the side of the jar screws into the top of the airbrush body where the to cup would normally be on a gravity feed brush.. Of course it becomes obvious that the posters AB has a removable cup. I suspect it's going to work very well, I was just curious of the difference between it and a bottom feed with side cup in terms of pressure etc, if any. There may be no difference.

Right around10 psi with paints thinned pretty loose. It's a bottom feed brush though, with side cup. You're drawing up and over and i have not seen that configuration in action before. I'm just curious is all, be sure to let us know how you get along with it.

Looks good, I'd be curious of how your air pressure and thin rates change if any. Top feed I think is good for small details using low pressure and with small volumes of paint. I know I use a side color cup on my Badger 200 for those sort of things and have considered a top feed gun but never made the move in 40 years so far. With a side color cup there is no issue lifting a few drops of paint, where with jars the tube may not be in the paint. Otherwise jars are fine for me. They probably make a color cup for your rig there, though I suppose all you have to do is put the top cup back on if you want to ever use it that way again.

I really don't care much for the tall gasser look of the day anymore but when I built them way back when , I'd say too, the AMT 37 Chevy was for me. But I also used to kit bash the 40 Ford coupe into a gasser. Then I got into kit bashing short track circle track cars. I lost interest in drag cars till I was going to the track myself with a real 67 Mustang GT fastback.

Not sure on the 68 GT but on the 69 Cobrajet you get all the chassis and engine in the body, then mount the front grill/headlight surround piece. And taillight piece as well is glued in after.

What are you looking for in trade ?

I know I had the kit in it's original form, I believe back around 1960 or so ( or when ever the first release was). For the life of me I can't recall it ever being finished or on display or even working on it. I bet I parted it out into other builds. I may have used that body on a slot car chassis actually now that I think about. Yes, and I put the big motor in it and it got in a crash and got smashed into an overpass bridge lol ! No clue what the other parts migrated into.

I can't tell you how many of those kits I built, most of them and certain ones several times. The 32 five window was my first in the series and several of the 39-40 Ford sedans, several 40 Ford coupes.. But I built the T and 32 roadsters too, in fact entered a contest with the full fendered roadster with Chrysler engine.. It didn't place because it was brush painted, that was the last body that ever got brush painted lol. The next contest I entered a semi custom 49 Ford ( not from the trophy series) with sprayed body and upholstered interior and got a third place with that. As I recall all the old Ford kits were molded in black initially and the contemporaries of the time like the 58 t bird, the 60's buicks etc in white. Long time ago now though so who knows ! But ya I remember the series for sure. I preferred hard tops to convertibles though so not so many of the convertibles got done by me. Never built the boat and I don't recall that trailer at all, though I must have seen it.

I've been thinking on what you have written here. You seem to want a detail gun. Then outfit your 200 with a fine tip and needle if you don't have them and have a good detail gun. I use the medium on my 200 to do acrylic colors on interior parts and sprue tree parts overall but the 350 or an H can do that just as well.. I go with a color cup and fine needle on the 200, mix the paint into almost a wash, then turn the flow of both paint and air way down ( you almost can't see the paint coming out till the tip is almost on the part) to paint inside the grills.. On the outer rim of the grill I put a light coat of glycerin and just rub it off after if any over spray hit it. The body and large surface parts like the hood or trunk parts I use the H but you could use the 350 just as well I bet. I think a fine tip and needle combo at Amazon is around $12- $15, no more than $20 if you have to buy them separately.. Probably US Airbrush Supply is similarly priced for these parts. You want the needle and nozzle for the Badger 100, 150 and 200. Don't confuse the 200NH in there because it's needles will also fit the 105 and 155 and this is a different system from your older style 200 that you said you had..

The Patriot 105 is also on 40% coupon at Amazon prime and smile as well, can be had for about $40 on the subscribe and save program.I believe the medium needle is standard in it but you can buy other tips and needles if a need is found. It has a smaller color cup than the TG. All Badgers use the same hose, Paasche has a different thread but adapters can be gotten either way..

I upgraded my 200 last year, I used the old hose and got a Badger to 1/4" adapter and put a standard 1/4 coupler end on that to fit my portable shop compressor ( never a fear of low air supply lol). and I bought the upgraded medium and large nozzle sets with appropriate needles. My fine nozzle set I kept original because it's always worked ok. I wanted to try the new pedal style nozzle sets, Glad I did. It's still not double action though, you have to manually dial flow down and up. and with the cost of all the upgrades you can buy a new Patriot 105 by the time all is said and done. By the way I use a color cup on my 200 fairly often, especially with the fine needle combo. I use one on the H too but more so on the 200 because the 200 is my detail gun. I just wanted to rejuvenate my old 200 is all. It works great. So does the Paasche H. I bet the Badger 350 does too.

If you are an Amazon prime member there is an offer up now for the TG where you hit subscribe and save and get 40% off with the coupon that generates. The regular price at Amazon is$98 for the 3 needle set plus fan air cap at Amazon to begin with so that is a substantial deal ( $58 with free shipping). The TS has the fan cap as well fwiw but is not listed in this program. I think that set is $89.. The Badger Patriot 105 is on this deal as well, though you weren't asking about Badger airbrushes. With the 40% off I guess that brush would be around $40. All that said , I use a Paasche H with #3 head set mostly. Also a Badger 200 that is 40 years old, both are single action. I use either one with the color cup or with jars of mixed paint depending on the volume of paint I need to run. Incidentally, I can paint the mesh of a 1/25th scale chrome grill with the Badger 200 and fine needle/ nozzle without masking, so double action not really required though I guess it would be good to clear the head if starting to get tip dry. I don't know if the TG would be as comfortable getting into small details like that quite honestly.

As I said, always worth a look see. Amazon wants $39.90 for the ICM 1/24 scale model T roaster and that local guy is $59 and change.

Always worth a look see, course it doesn't always work out either.

I just checked Amazon prime, it's $21.95 with free shipping. I'm in favor of a local shop staying in business but not $11 worth on a single kit. I think he is more in line on the 40 ford coupe though.

I see. So are there non deluxe/retro kits out there as well ? A local hobby store want $32 for Gas man kit, Amazon $23 I think, maybe this is why and I wasn't aware of this. It seems like model car kits used to be a simple straight forward purchase way back when.

Dueces, what's a deluxe kit about ? I'm not familiar with that one. I have no loyalty to this GasMan thing, the rendition I want to build is more street rod/ street and strip. custom/retro and haven't bought a kit yet..