Dave G.

For Kit Basher, here is the AutoAir video;

I bet is has a cool setting with no heat output, my wifes does. Auto Air has a leveler too, I forget the number off hand, you really want that and the thinner/reducer. There is an instructional video online where a rep takes you through the steps. I think I ran into it under a search something like "airbrushing AutoAir paints" or some such thing.

Try a hair dryer, works pisser and heat sets the paint at the same time. That's how I quick cure my Stynylrez primer and can over coat it in about half an hour. I got the heat setting idea from a guy who uses Createx on fishing lures. On another note i would think you would want to be thinning Createx with some 4012 or similar thinner, no ?

This 150 has the pedal style, it's the updated tip and yes I believe the heavy needle and tip will fit your 200, it would take you from a .5 assembly to a .75, it flows paint unbelievable much like a Paasche H but with way more control:

The guys who buy the knock offs throw the seal out and use bees wax because they are cheap seals in their case and lacquer thinner breaks them down. I think the real 200 always had the seal but I think the later iterations have the teflon. I know my original seal compacted and leaked. I also upgraded my medium and heavy nozzle and needles to the pedal style ( i may have mentioned that already). My stuff is old and well used , I just figured I'd refresh it a bit. The fine was my least used back in the day, I do use it a bit more now but it looks like new, the others were kind of beat though they still work and I kept them as spares. The new air cap being the pedal style I can get in there to clean a bit easier. Everything was available through Amazon.

Hah, gotta love the 200 ! Something I discovered recently with mine while back flushing with detergent water, there is an air leak between the nozzle cap and the outer air cap. And it doesn't matter how tight I tighten it. I also tie flies and have dubbing wax which is in part bees wax. I waxed the threads with that and no more leak. And I feel the paint lays down smoother since doing that, though that also could be my wild imagination. I've used the wax before against an old teflon washer that was leaking and it stopped the pulsing that had developed. Worked great till I got a new washer.

That Point Zero gets good reviews for the money but they also have one with a tank on it for about $20 more, also with good reviews. I have a PZ regulator/water separator and can only say it is well made/no complaints. But I use a big 8 gal compressor of a different brand.

Is it a 200 or 200nh ? I've had a regular 200 for more than 40 years and never have soaked the body. I pull the needle and polish it up with ooo steel wool and lacquer thinner and pull the nozzle and cap apart and soak those in the capped jar over night in lacquer thinner. Especially for lacquer and enamels. Acrylic might need further addressing but probably not inside the body.

MM acrylic last I knew was- is- are pretty well pre thinned. I would add some retarder to it though. You should test anything you want to try, cross platforms can or may work great, they can also go whacko, or may spray fine but dry with a haze or fog. I do my test spraying on empty prescription bottles, some folks use plastic spoons, then if you get a flop you wrecked a spoon worth half a cent or an empty script bottle you were throwing out anyway and not a $30 model. For me testing is half the fun, it's how I developed my own thinner for some acrylics and acrylic craft paints. I will say that both Vallejo and Tamiya it is safe to say should use their own thinners. You might not want to use Tamiya though it does have a bit of odor to it, not like lacquer but it's stronger than some other acrylics and it can be thinned with lacquer thinner, so there is something different in their formula. great paint but thinking of the wife here. Have you hooshcowed a compressor from someplace ? Edit: Actually I sprayed some mm today (12-17-19) and did put a little thinner in it. It's very smooth spraying and flowed out pretty well with the bit of retarder in there that I use in my thinner. That said, Testors recommends their own acrylic thinner of course.

That's great then ! As I said I know that other modelers use the Neo as well. Don't worry it's going to put down paint and no matter what you get it will come with a learning curve, so you will learn this one.. And think milk.

Great, can't wait to hear how it goes for you !

Yes though the link was dead here in the forum, you would have to copy and past that to your browser. It is from Humbrol though so should be reliable, only 2-3 minutes long. Here is the link ( fwiw that guy thins his paint thicker than I would, just sayin): Well how do you like that now the thing came up.

Hmmm, I was glad to see that Humbrol Thinner for airbrushing has a retarder in it. I make my own thinner for use in many acrylic paints and craft paints and use retarder in it as well, which greatly reduces if not eliminates tip dry. There is a video out there on this but it wouldn't load here.

In the end they all spray ! It's getting to know their ways is all.

It's not the H or Paasche vs Badger, the H is a great brush, it's about external mix. External mix can have some limitations depending on your needs. You may not need anything outside those limitations though. You won't know till you get painting with airbrushes. There is an argument for and against every design out there

A lot of people use the Neo. My understanding of it is that airbrush is Neo for Iwata. It's not truly Iwata but Iwata designed and again my understand and I could be wrong, is that it has the one needle set. I did confirm it comes with a .35 needle. It will work with acrylic paints ( I've shot acrylic with a .25 needle but for washes) but it will be fussier on thinning ratio and clog easier than one with a bigger needle. Again lean towards that 2% milk consistency. did you know that the Neo was designed for fine detail work and entry level ? You certainly could use it as a detail gun vs changing nozzles on another airbrush, just grab the Neo. Meanwhile I'm sure you want to paint car bodies, you're going to enjoy more flow for that work imo. and it is exactly that, my opinion. I'm not here to knock anyones Neo, I know for a fact some folks spray bodies with one but they do it with many mist coats from what I've seen in their videos. Something nice about dual action is you can yank back on the valve and help clear the nozzle as well as control paint flow on the fly.. On single action you have to screw it in and out vs lever action. It doesn't take long to get the feel of double action, in 1/1 I painted full flow, that is I pulled all the way back. But could dust in an area with partial open valve too. Also the H has limited control over flow by screwing the nozzle. My Badger ( or any internal mix brush) 200 has way more control over paint flow but it is by screwing in and out. I just think you will be happiest with something you can change the needle and nozzle on to more than .35 is all. Single vs double action is a concept change, you can get used to either or or both..

FWIW all of Donn Yost's award winning models were painted with a Paasche H and either a #3 needle or #5. those are heavy needs and nozzles, .7 and up. Just sayin. This kit is $57 at Amazon. I'm not hinting just showing it.

Read the reviews.

REload the page the photo was slow loading, it's the next post up from the one you quoted and I don't want it to show up again if I paste it over again. It's a Point Zero with tank and water trap for $98. And it on Prime.

You might entertain the thought of this one also at Amazon.

That compressor is Amazons choice , it's not on prime but has free shipping anyway. Really the water trap should be away from the compressor anyway to give air time to recondense or the water in the air I should say. I have a trap to use attached to the side of my booth, it's a Point Zero that I got from Amazon for I think $10. But I have such a large volume of air to tap into that I don't get water in my line, the tank on the compressor might so I just drain it there. That Point Zero trap is well made fwiw. If you're going to Amazon anyway, look around you might find one with a water trap on it but that isn't how I would plumb mine.

Hah, I use a Husky 8 gal compressor. I have it for light car repairs and running my lvlp spray guns and also nail guns. Noisy as all get out ! But I can air it up and proceed to paint a whole model with an airbrush before it needs air again, air it up and good to go when ever. I want to plumb my basement for air too because I do wood turning down there and need a blast of air in my hollow forms. Some folks are liking the quiet series Cambel Hausfield they sell at Walmart but I think it more money than the CAT.

A lot of people like the California Air Tools one, it's quiet not too pricey. The one I'm thinking of is around $108 and has the on board air tank, available at Amazon .Also direct from CAT.

Yes, this actually was why I asked if Goodwrench had an interest in airbrushing, far less and also finer particles. He still probably should run with acrylic where his wife has the sinus problems. At least no fumes. You bring up a good point about cleaning, and too, with acrylic paints it's all the more important because they dry quick in the brush and hard to break down that residue. The Paasche H is a good dependable airbrush for auto models especially. It's a simple functional design and if you bugger something up there aren't many parts and they are inexpensive. I have one myself but really prefer my Badger old school single action 200, it's more than 40 years old now still going. But a Paasche H would give that long term service too. The badger atomizes the paint a little finer being internal mix.. I like the Passche for clear coat sometimes and higher volume jobs like my wifes ceramics where I might clear 25 or 30 pieces in a sitting with Liquitex satin varnish.

Kalmbach is usually pretty good, they put together a nice kit there by the looks of it and we know their publications are good. I think the Neo Airbrush they put in that kit has something on the order of a .30 or .35 needle/nozzle combo. To me this is on the small limit for acrylic paint, I like a bit larger needle because some paints may come pre thinned and often state a needle size generally over .40. Badger Airbrush primer for instance I'm pretty sure is suggested to use a .50 or larger. However that just means you thin a bit more and put down a few more coats. A lot of people use that Neo and love it. If the paint you use is or If you thin what ever paint you use to the consistency of milk, and more specifically 2% milk, it will always atomize and spray down pretty evenly with what ever airbrush you get. Acrylic air pressure you will be good between 25 and 30 lb or so at that consistency as a good starting point. I would hope the kit would address the products and parts in the kit and best settings to start out with.. Edit: You will need an air compressor.