WillyBilly

I am dusting this off by addressing the biggest problem with the body. The Body! The resin body was so bad I decided it was either scrap it or try to cut it up and splice the two together. So, I cut the resin body to keep only what makes it a wagon and cut the plastic body to remove what makes it a sedan. With the real car, the wagon gets wider at the c-pillar. This causes the back doors to bow out at the back to match. The differential and rear track is 3" wider on the wagon than on the sedan. Luckily the body lines between the two match perfectly. So, after getting over this hurdle, it is game on.

MPC Coo Coo Marlin Monte Carlo. I got it 50 years ago and never got a chance to finish it. Got one off ebay a few years back and built it with a matching carrier.

That is awesome. I remember the original truck. The 50 is outstanding.

Always reminded me of the early 70s 1800 ES. I love the look.

Mail Call

Thanks for the advice guys. I now can continue on the build.

Very nice job.

Great save.

I think you nailed the OP's problem. Don't shake the can with clears.

I like that idea. It would keep the body from interfering with the tub, or in my case, the rear wheel wells.

My normal method for stretching cabs is to put styrene plates behind the joining points. I glue to one side, let it dry, then I have a holding point for the other side to bring the two halves together. I will do the same here by supergluing plates/bars to both sides and roof on the resin side, followed by epoxy to make sure they stay put, then I will glue the plastic side to the plates with a fine bead along the seam from inside where I can. Other than the roof, the rest is a panel line, so I have to keep that in mind as I join the two sides. Pic is how I have done it in the past when I am just dealing with styrene. The pic shows before the two halves are brought together. Thanks for all the advice. I am feeling better about how this will come together now.

One coat of grey primer followed by a light coat of white primer before white paint. You can skip the white primer, but you will need a couple more coats of white paint. I use testors grey primer followed by two coats of testors white enamel spray paint with good results.

So I purchased this tonight. I have superglue, but wanted something a little thicker, and less runny for this.

I only buy Wet look clear, and I can say that I have had foaming from it. I find that if I shake it and let it settle, it comes out ok. Sometimes I give it a quick shake and let it sit for 30 seconds to a minute before spraying. Some cans do it, some don't, but if I let it settle, I have no problems. Shaking it seems to create bubbles in some cans. Not sure why.

I purchased a so-called Modelhaus resin wagon body for Revell Caprice/Impala SS models. I am not sure if it was or not, but it needed far too much work up front to work and look right. I have had more than a few Jimmy Flintstone bodies, and they are not bad at all. This thing was horrible. I said if I could take the part of the sedan body that is the same as the wagon, and the wagon specific part of the resin body that would be my best bet. So after much deliberation, I stuck it back in the box for a couple years. Yesterday I decided to see if I could cut the resin body up without destroying it beyond use. I think I did an ok job. I still have some sanding to do to get the two to mate up as they should. On the real car, the back is wider starting at the C-pillar, so the back doors bow outward a bit. This seems to be about the same with the model. The gap on the roof will come together once the doors line up with the quarters. My big question is: Should I use Superglue to mate the two parts together, or is there another glue better suited for what I am looking to do?

Outstanding. I love that you have the issue with the van. I especially like the off-road van.

Mail call from A few Sprues loose, and Hobby Inc. M1009 conversions for Revell Blazer, and a couple police push bars, and a 1/16 1964 1/2 Mustang.

Now we just need someone to do a 6.2 diesel/TH400 combo.

Since a Blazer can be considered a car, truck, or SUV I figured I would share this good news to those who need to hear it.😀 A few Spruse Loose on Ebay has released a M1009 conversion for the Revell Blazer/Jimmy. US Military M1009 CUCV 1984-87 Chevy Blazer Conversion for 1:25 Revell Model Kit | eBay

The kid who swallows the marble does not grow up to be president. However, even low IQ people can do basic math if taught. I remember going to a McDonalds a few years back to get an Iced Coffee. The bill was $1.63. I gave the kid $2.13 cents that consisted of 2 one-dollar bills, two nickels, and three pennies. He stood there for a second and handed me back the change. I told him I wanted two quarters back. after a little back and forth his manager came over and could not figure out why I would want to do that, but told him to just key it in, and the machine would tell him what to give back. I left thinking that it does not take much to stop traffic in the human mind, yet we put a man on the moon?

A few Spruse Loose on Ebay has released a M1009 conversion for the Revell Blazer/Jimmy. US Military M1009 CUCV 1984-87 Chevy Blazer Conversion for 1:25 Revell Model Kit | eBay

Mail call today. 1985 Mustang SVO sealed inside the box from Ebay, and a Richard Petty donor model Roadrunner, with correct decals from 1971 from Mike's Decals This was a much cheaper option than trying to find an original MPC kit on Ebay. Oh, and a Ford GT40 purchased locally.

When should we expect the new changes?

Perfect sleeper.

When should we expect the new changes?