Texas_3D_Customs

I probably will at some point I started it I just never finished It's a lot of work

That's actually not too surprising. I am not a fan of anycubic never have been it probably goes back to the proprietary slicing format everybody freaked out when Chitubox did an encrypt it format that was proprietary but people never really cared much about anycubic. I understand there's a difference between what happened between the community and Chitu Systems but any cubic has made some very questionable products and I think the autofill is completely worthless unless you're trying to print something that you're that cannot print without refilling midprint which I never have that problem but it does intrinsically put some challenges based on the chemistry and nature of photosensitive resin. The stuff is nasty it will eat seals like there's no tomorrow.

Not really I produce very intrinsic detail models with great surface finish and here's a little inside I'm using three generation old printers some of them are newer but of the 36 printers I have only 10 are current generation printers. You have to consider that even first gen mono LCD printers were 50 micron pixels current ones are anywhere from 12 to 15 give or take I think there's some that are 17 that sounds all fine and dandy and it in theory can work but there's a lot more that goes on than just the size of the pixel. How the resin reacts and propagates from the exposure has a lot to do with it but 50 microns is extremely small in itself. More than anything it has to do with what material you use how you lay your prints out on the build plate how well you've tuned your resin and supports. I don't still have one but I was making very smooth finishes on the original elegoo Saturn. This is a 1/8 scale C6 for an FE engine. It was done on my Phrozen mega 8K which by today standards has horrible resolution it might be 8K but it's a massive screen so your pixel size I think is 50 micron but it's smooth very smooth. So while the new printers are capable of producing slightly better detail and that's only the limitations of the resin and how the curing works It's like a daisy chain you kick off a section and it does spread some from there I've done a lot of research and how resin works and why all these ridiculously small pixels don't matter as much as they make it out to be. What I will say for certain modern resin printers are some of the new features they have like the tilting vat instead of the build plate going up and down on the eligu ultra series and then you've got heated vets that's a nice thing to have Auto leveling little tossed up on it It's kind of good it's kind of bad You just have to work around it and rethink how you do things. Some of them now have pumps that will drain and fill your resin for you sounds good It's really good for draining but a lot of resins will settle and if your bottle is upside down then it's going to suck pigment before it does the other parts of the resin it needs to be mixed. So the whole point to my rant here is it's not so much the printer it's everything else that matters how good of a print you will have.

So the layer lines are not so much the XY resolution or the layer height it's the angle of the print and the shift of pixels per layer the become very pronounced when the steps are not consistent like if you were to build a staircase at an angle where every step was not the same height. Anti aliasing works best when you have the angle set correctly

You have to understand it's not so much using that word He's taking things way out of context and he's not really telling a full story and use whatever word you want.

Still holding on to that I see 😜

Layer lines but it really has to do with the settings of the person doing the printing. Most modern printers have very small voxels "pixels kinda" and with the correct orientation and anti alias settings they are not that noticeable with the naked eye, but to mitigate them a good filler primer with some post processing will make a big difference. But there also appears to be a layer shift on that part as well. How much magnifying did you do to show those lines? If you zoom in on my parts they are there but once painted they are imperceivable. But it really comes down to experience to make a print with no noticeable layer lines.

That is where it attaches to the plate a good vendor in my honest opinion will ship the parts off the supports one is time-consuming and to things can get broken doing it

Okay I guess when I think detail I think well the details of the parts not the breakdown I will admit I don't break them down as far as other people do I do more than some less than others it really comes into space considerations. Because I don't do just one scale think about how many engines I have how many different scales I offer them in there's a reason I sold my house and move somewhere with a 50x24 shop. I am definitely out of space until I get moved over there. Even then you can only do so many parts with so many options if you want to keep things in stock and I don't really do a lot of print to order.

So that intake manifold is not inherently incorrect it is the pre-production model it was the original it is highly sought after in the actual Cobra community there aren't many of them around as far as I know I decided to go with that over the production intake manifold The rest of it was scanned from a real engine so it is correct including the T56.

There's also a more stock version with the torker II intake both are single planes but this is the Mopar single plane versus Edelbrock

Not sure how it can be any more detailed than scanning it and getting every single thing exactly where it goes. I did not dumb down the files when I reverse engineer them into CAD so I don't see how any detail can't be there. As far as the accessories I will agree they're not stock set up they were modeled after one of the aftermarket kits it's just the way I decided to go with that engine.

So I have been very quiet recently but I am moving houses, and while the house is a downgrade it does have this I am working on. I have the shell converted to a single door,all that's left is the electrical lighting and HVAC.

So the whole belt issue some people want them some people don't I get a lot of people complaining BLS doesn't have them and then I get the opposite pick one or the other but producing pulleys on their own well that's just extremely time-consuming as far as scaling I scale to real life not to kits

Okay fair enough on the flat edge on the filters AFB's are available as a separate item I have made my position on the carbs that come with my engines and it's just how I am going to do it. I am veering towards just dropping it anyway.

why is that?

The ZL1 is released on my Website

I might be joining you out there by Weatherford soon

I didn't take it as you were upset by it commenting on why it is the way it is If I could produce these in bulk quickly the price wouldn't be this high I try to keep my price is fair for the amount of time I put into it was just stating why it is the way this

You have to understand unlike a kit this is not injection molded by the thousands with little human interaction A lot of time goes into doing this and I work many many hours serve busy season but it's a whole different level of detail than you're going to get with injection molding. And like any other custom made handcrafted and I know a printer did it but there's still a lot of manual labor that goes into these It's going to be at a premium.

Well the way things are going I don't know every time I think I'm starting to catch up I have a Rush of orders and I can barely keep up so unless things change and I don't have to work 14 hours a day

I guess the heads are reminiscent of Pontiac heads that's about it

Late to the party but...

Have no idea what possessed me to do this but I kinda like it

To put it more bluntly I do not make toys in my garage I make replicas