Mothersworry

Hey Bob, thanx fer yer offer...got it covered though...Norm took care of me and I got a few extra sets fer a coupla customs I have planned. Used em on the Black Beauty kit that Mr. Flintstone gave me...worked out pretty well, painted with "polished aluminum" lacquer and hand painted the black on the spokes. Looking forward to seeing the T-Bird...

How bout a new one? https://www.7fifteenmotorworks.com/

The headlight assembly is taken from the Danbury Mint Doane Spence Roadster diecast. Norm (Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland) cast up these parts for me, finished with Alclad chrome.

That is very kool...

Built this one to try out the Alclad candy red paint...not an accurate replica but I had some fun with it. Vintage Johan kit, made a few changes...cut open the rear window, flush fitting windshield and rear window made from clear sheet plastic, rear spoiler blended into body sides, fabricated spoiler extensions, hemi engine and abuncha other stuff. All metal finishes are Alclad.

This probably won't help you much but for what it's worth... The rear wheels in the AMT ZZR are the wheels that I used when I built my Batmobile, they are the correct size and depth and the spokes are also correct (slightly curved). I added a hub to the wheel center and had a friend resin cast them for me. I checked with my friend to see if perhaps he still had the mold but no such luck, it's long gone. I built this Batmobile when it wuz first issued so it's been awhile. Unfortunately the ZZR is a rare and expensive kit but perhaps a fellow forum member may have a wheel to loan or cast a set for you. Like I said this info might not be much help so if someone can do 3d printing for you that will probably be the more practical solution.

Perhaps covering the tail light with Bare Metal Foil then painting it with transparent red paint. When it is dry use a Tamiya cotton swab (a round one) with an appropriate thinner to remove the paint from the raised ribs.

A very old project back on track...'66 Mustang GT convertible conversion.

I don't think so, Matt had said that he wuz done at the end of 2024. The website is still up but you can't put anything in yer cart. I suppose you could contact him directly to see what stuff he's still got that he might be willing to deal on...doesn't hurt to ask.

Roughly 5" x 7" or so.

Scale Motorsport stuff from Matt showed up today...buncha Wizard "O"s, saw & scriber blades, upholstery decals and acoupla display stands...don't really need the display thingies...but they were cheap.

Got this fer Christmas, Scalextric 1/32 scale Batmobile from the 1989 Batman movie starring Michael Keaton as Batman.

Picked this up recently, 1/32 scalextric Batmobile from the 1966 TV series Batman.

Welcome to the wonderful world of foiling, boy are you gonna have fun. There are all kinds of tools, techniques and whatnot fer the application and use of this stuff but in my opinion, cutting/trimming it is fairly straightforward...it just takes practice...the more ya do it the better ya get at it. I've been using Bare Metal Foil fer more than 50 years and in my experience I've found that all that's necessary for me to be consistently successful in cutting/trimming it is a brand new Xacto brand #11 blade in a #1 handle, a light touch and a steady hand. I've used surgical blades/scalpels to trim foil and found them to be unnecessary. Foil is thin, it cuts very easily and doesn't take much pressure to cut it. A thin, very sharp blade such as a scalpel could too easily cut more deeply than necessary, into the paint and perhaps thru the paint and into the plastic below. It's even possible that if you cut to deeply trimming the foil that when removing the excess foil you could remove some paint with the foil (I've done this). Additionally, when trimming the foil you may (and you will) from time to time go off course and cut into an area that you didn't want to. With a very sharp blade such as a scalpel the damage potential can be much greater than with an Xacto blade. Again, this is my personal experience fer cutting and trimming foil, my process and it works fer me. It may work fer you, it may not. Fer what it's worth. The foil work on this Maverick wuz done with an Xacto #11 blade. Also the tail light panel and the cowl were masked with Bare Metal Foil...but thats another topic.

I hope this doesn't take this thread too far off point but a good friend of mine owns a '69 Talladega so I can offer some small insight into these unique cars. Briefly...Talladega's were "package cars", built solely to homologate the modified Torino body for NASCAR, avaliable only one way...no options at all. The only possible variable wuz color, one of 3, Wimbledon white, Presidential Blue, or Royal maroon with a black hood and cowl. All Talladegas had Whitewall tires, 428 CJ with SCJ oil cooler, C6 auto trans, an open 9 inch rear axle and a Black cloth and vinyl bench seat interior. The body changes unique to the Talladega included modified front fenders, flush grille with pickup truck parking lights/signals behind the grille, unique header panel and an extensively reworked rear bumper that wuz installed in place of the original Torino front bumper to provide a sort of "air dam" effect. Additionally the rocker panels were reworked and "raised" 1 inch higher so the car could be lower than the standard Torino as NASCAR measured ground clearance at the rocker panel. One point of contention has been the single speaker AM radio. "Officially", no radios were installed by the factory, however, my friend (the Talladegas owner) has said when he that while he wuz working at a Ford Dealer in '69 he did see a Talladega delivered to the dealer from the factory with a radio installed. I built a model of my friends Talladega from the Monogram kit, the kit is a very well done representation of the real car, far superior to the AMT version, although it is 1/24 scale.