hungry4knowhow

From what I have heard BlizzCon's are alot about World of Warcraft MMORPG these days. I expect this years will have a huge emphasis on Diablo III and Starcraft II. Both Computer games

Thanks for the help. @Maniac- Are you an Earnhardt fan?

Thats a Kurt Busch car, im looking for Kyle. The young crazy mofo in the #18, not sure what he drives in Nationwide but would like that one if its all there is.

Hey guys, Im not an avid NASCAR fan but during football offseason I do watch. I love Kyle Busch (dont hit me) but I cant find a kit for his car anywhere. Is there one in production?

thats nice, one question. How did you get the blue headlight lenses? food coloring or something?

haha thanks for the warning. One more thing to look forward to.

lol I love the disclaimer at the end haha. I figured I would ask now, im new enough in the hobby that I am definitly not set in my ways with Testors Enamels, but I just remembered them from when I was a kid so I bought a bunch of testors stuff last year when I got back into it. On another question, it seems most people RAVE about laquers...whats the deal with these? How are they different from enamels?

yeah i think im definitely going with a decal. Cause i dont want a lace design, i want to put an actual designer emblem on there. and it will be easier to achieve the rainbow colors with a decal.

Hey all, im doing a new model right now, and something that always has me curious is drying times between coats. Ive done a search on the forum read a few things but not many people seem to use Testors Enamel cans. or enamel at all. I am guilty of not sanding much between coats, except on the body which I will allow to dry 24hrs or overnight before working with it. When im not sanding I wait between 2-4hrs for drying time before applying another coat. 2hrs if its same color, 4 if its a new color. Am I crazy? I dont have enough experience to really judge whether it works well or not. Let me know how you guys do it between coats.

no missing part to the pillar (thats the part between windshield and window right? not a car guy) just very little to attach back to after scoring the door out...

ah ok, i just didnt get it when you said, " LASE U COVER THE CAR AND PAINT THEN WET SAND AND CLEAR" didnt understand the way you put it. will search those paint jobs now that i understand though. putting lace over the top and spraying it.

ok. im familiar with how epoxy works, but thanks for telling me because i for sure would have tried various glues before doing epoxy lol.

Im for keepin em vert just cause I cant do it haha

im sorry i dont understand what you said

I thought a decal might be recommended. In the case that thats the route I take, am I right that there is a pearl coat or semi trans coat of some sort ontop of the decal in pic one? Or is it just a clearcoat ontop of it? I know you cant be sure(maybe you can) but what does your gut say? /EDIT after looking at Dades model closer you can see that its on the side of the body as well...still decal? it looks much less noticable so its either fade painted on or definitely some color over the top of it...thats my noob .02 though

ok I think I see where your going with that.... so just take like a piece of wire from a coat hanger straighten it and then attach it with glue on each side and use putty to mold around it and the inside of the body?

thanks scott, and i will be sure to post pics once things get progressing. Right now im chopping up the first couple of vehicles for the DIO.

wish i was near philly. That post was hilarious. Thought I was reading the Wise Guys book by Pileggi.

Ok below are two pictures with the paintjob type I am trying to achieve. The first is from a modeler on our forums "dade" the second is a real vehicle. Im trying to do the black chain link thing in "dade"s model. It looks like the design is under a pearl finish which is exactly what im trying to achieve. Only my design will have rainbow instead of all black. So here we go: Pic 1: Dades Model: Pic 2 Real Job:

yeah it happened on one side at the lower door area too Right after i did it and posted this topic i started searching and found that really no one cuts the whole door out with a knife...foolish me, I wondered why it took me 2hrs per door. From now on I will do the friction string thing. ARGH! I saw some of that plasti weld stuff the other day at the hobby shop. I will test that method out Ed. @Custom, I dont understand what your talking about with the brass thing. Im no expert. do you have pics I could see to help visualize?

Pic Below: ok img property doesnt work lets try this again: ok that didnt work...one more time:

Question, how did you do the "chain link" looking paint on the roof? I am looking to do something like this with my newest build just looking for some how to's on it. I want to do LV or Gucci on my car.

Ok so im cutting the doors off of an 86 Monte Carlo model (The DONK version) and the part up front by the fenders has come apart from continuous pressure. (the windshield to window piece and the bottom molding to front fender piece) so now my engine part is dangling. Whats the best fix for this? Just glue it or should i use putty and then sand it down? I was trying to be careful cause I could tell it was fragile with the doors being gone. But no luck. Surely some of you guys have had this problem when cutting the doors. How did you fix it?

Thats awesome Ed, the door tracks set it off for me as well. Do they work?

Hey guys, thanks for the tips helps to get me started. And I was definitely looking to scratchbuild the majority of the diorama. Kits just dont do it for me when it comes to buildings. I went to a local HS today and found some good deals on a few "DONK" Kits so I've got a few to get me going. I'll check out the other sites. Now off to do some research!