crazyjim

Looks very nice. I like the details on your fuel line - gonna have to try that.

WELCOME HOME, Brother. I'm USMC, 105mm FO, In Country 1969-70. If you have it, HBO will be presenting "Final Salute" with Keven bacon on February 21, 2009. It's the story of a group that brings home the KIAs from Iraq. I read the book last week. Lots of tears. These people rerally take care of our fallen heroes. You ever get up to Washington, DC for the Rolling Thunder demonstration? Or Memorial Day, Or Veterans Day? I'm a National Park Service volunteer at The Wall and am usually up there for those occasions.

I hear ya , brother. Life is good. Unfortunately it's too cold here in Florida today to go out in the shop and work on a model car. I miss the '60s but am still there. Blue jeans and tye dye T-shirts are still my kind of clothes. Your handle - Helipilot and you like '60s music. That leads me to think you might have been a chopper pilot in the 'Nam.

Northern Tool & Equipment has a single cylinder air compressor designed for use an air brush with a .08 gallon air tank for $79.00. Model #1202S152, Item #123009. They also have a double action air brush for $39.00. And they have the work I want for $79.00. I was planning on going up to Ocala tomorrow, so maybe I'll stop by the Northern Tool store for the cart.

Holy cow - you guys are killing me. I've been telling myself for years to get out and use the air brush. Somebody says I need to have quick disconnect fittings and now a compressor with an air tank. How come one needs all that stuff? I have a badger 200 with a Micro-Mark 27159 compressor (looks the same as a Paasche D500 unit). I put a water trap on the compressor and also a coupler with a dial for air pressure. I've only used the air brush/compressor a couple of times, but I'm now in the market for some kind of rolling cart that will house a spray booth on top, a drawer for the air brush & tools, a shelf for the compressor, and a power strip to power everything.

What's the difference between single action and double action airbrushes?

SEMPER FI. Little Brother. Be safe. Jim Stepanek (Crazyjim - USMC - Vietnam 1969-70).

Not a problem. Hope it helps and sorry I took so long.

and here's the last page of the article. The forum said I had too mnay pictures in the first one.

Here's the scanned article from the March 1972 Car Model magazine about tie dyeing.

Sorry Jody. I remember offering to copy the magazine article and get it to yuo, but don't remember hearing that you wanted it. I can scan the article but have no idea how to get the scan into this forum. Want to provide me with a regular email address? I'll get it done this week sometime - promise. Can I post my real email address here or is that against the rules?

When you pour the paint out the cup onto the water, I think the paint will stick to the inside of the cup. I've never tried that particular approach. When you spray the paint over the water already in the container, you get the swirling effect.

I think you should call yourself Fantastic Frank. Your models are fantastic!! But where did you get the Eldorado? That's my most favorite car ever. How about the kit manufacturer? Any info I can get so that I can find one or two for myself to build.

You might want to check out mywingbling.com. They're down here in Florida. They put some kind of film over water, spary a release agent, and dip the parts into the water. They can do all kinds of finishes. I don't know if the chemicals would harm styrene and I don't know what they would charge. I know that doing the dashboard, side covers, boomerang on a Honda Gold Wing costs about $1500.00.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY! And may you have many, many more. I didn't realize the youth on this forum until some other posts were made. I turned 61 on the 11th. Built my first model in 1958 and probably still have the spare parts from that kit (whatever it was).

Found it at houstonart.com. It appears they also have a foil adhesive pen available. I'm going to try and get to the local Michaels' and Hobby Lobby this weekend.

We put up a 20 x 40 steel building a couple of years ago and I took 10 x 20 of that for my hobby room. Besides models I also have an interest in stained glass. Some of those projects take up quite a bit of room. The hobby room is all insulated, drywalled and painted, ceiling fan, floresent lights, heat/AC unit, refrierator, sink, tile floor. My actual model building is done on a desk that I had when I was a little kid.

What a bummer! At least they waited until after the holidays though. I'm lucky in that I'm retired and draw a pension. I live in Citrus County, FLA now and our unemployment rate is at 9%. I can't even find a little part time job down here. Hold your head high. You'll find something even better than what you had.

I called my local Michael's and Wal-Mart and they have no idea what Mona Lisa adhesive is. Can you get more specific - part number or a picture? Thanks.

Wait a minute! You use plain old Reynolds Wrap for chrome strips? I'm still trying to get the hang of BMF. I guess I'll have to find a Michael's for the adhesive you mentioned.

I build just for my pleasure. Some of my models were in shows in the 70's and took home trophies, but that was a long time ago. Now I build to relax and enjoy the hobby, although since my wife showed me how to post pictures through photobucket I plan to post on this site in the near future.

I unsuccessfully have tried 3M fine line tape and paint always leaks under it, so I was very interested in these discussions about tamiya masking tape. I did a search for "Tamiya tape" to try and find a source to purchase some of it. That search brought up a posting from Finescale.com where a guy says Shurtape Razor Edge Gold Premium masking tape is the same stuff but much cheaper. It's supposed to be available at Sherwin-Williams Paint stores.

What's the big new with multiple accounts or not using your whole name? I've been going to this forum for several months, did a couple of postings, learned alot, and am thoroughly enjoying it. Please don't ruin it.

My birthday present arrived Wednesday - 8 tubes of Kens Fuzzi-Fur from Scale dreams. I now have all the colors. Scale Dreams is going to be having a 1st year anniversary sale next month.

After completing any bodywork, I prime my models with Plasti-coat sandable primer in either red oxide, gray, or white depending on the final color. I let the primer dry for a couple of days before wet sanding with #400 paper. The Nova was in white primer. I use painters tape to hold the body to a bent metal clothes hanger. Doors, hood, trunk need to be taped from the inside at this time too. You need to fill a container with warm water. I use the wash tubs they give you in the hospital, but any container that's large enough to submerge the model will work. The container size will be dependent on how you want the swirl to flow and that is dertermined on how you insert/remove the body from the water. With the body attached to the hanger, I submerge it in the water and then start spraying Testor's enamel on the water. In the Nova case, I used several different blues and reds. If you try to stir the paint it will stick to whatever you used - so don't try to stir. Lift the body from the water, hook it on to something to let it hang dry and start 3 or 4 coats of clear the next day or two. DON'T TRY DOUBLE DIPPING - IT DOESN'T WORK!! You can get different effects by lifting the body at different angles. Straight up will look different than lifting the front end first. Or rear end first. Other effects will be had by spraying the paint over the water and submerging the body into the paint and water. BUT BE CAREFUL - once the body is dipped, you need to remove any & all paint that might be floating on the water. Use a stick, hanger, paper towel, whaatever to remove excess paint. If you lift the body up through the paint agian it will look terrible. If you're not haappy with the results, just soak the body in Purple Power and start over again. Hope this helps and don't forget to post your results.