Force

Another unbelievable build, Thanks for showing it to us.

I have done business with Matt before and his parts were top notch, but I haven't heard anything from him in a couple of years. I'm still looking for good detailed Holley 4160 carbs so if anyone can direct me to a good source I would be very grateful.

The "late" Revell Funny Car chassis wich has a one piece main frame was even earlier than the Olds FC's, John Force Castrol GTX etc wich came out in 1989, the first issue with the "late" style chassis was the Monogram Don "Snake" Prudhomme Wendy's-Pepsi / Dale Pulde Miller Warrior Trans Am and Billy Meyer Chief-7-Eleven Mustang from 1985. And as Revell and Monogram merged in 1986 the Funny Car kits after that can have Revell or Monogram lable but most of them are issued under the Revell name until 1998 when the last issues from this same base tooling with Firebird bodies came out. The "early" style chassis from the 70's was reworked from a multipiece casting with the chassis main frame in two separate pieces to a one piece main frame...I don't exactly know when they did that but I have both types in my stash, and both are Chevy Monza's. Revell also have the old Monogram Snake/Mongoose-Cop Out etc FC chassis and the recent Hawaiian and Chi-Town Hustler FC chassis (wich has there own versions) from a couple of years ago, but there isn't many aftermarket parts for those.

Does anyone here know where I can get good looking well detailed Holley 4160 series carburators with side hung floats? I need some sets for my 68 Hemi Dart and Hemi Barracuda Super Stock projects and as the carbs are very visual on the model the carbs Revell provided doesn't meet my demands by far...they are as far as I'm concerned junk. The carburators I'm looking for is not the more common 4150 series with center hung floats, the only carburator legal and correct for a 68 Hemi Super Stock car is the 4160 series. I know Matt Conte at Dencon Resins had a very nice looking resin 4160 that I wanted but I wasn't able to get any before he closed up shop. Any help would be appreciated.

The first Chevy 427 was indeed a modified 409 http://www.348-409.com/z11.html The "mystery motor" was a whole other beast, it was loosely based on the 409 but looked like the later 1965-forward Rat motor, nothing fits between the mystery motor and the rat motor tho'. http://hotrodenginetech.com/chevrolet-427-mystery-motor/ http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0611_chevy_mystery_motor/

Well it's not that strange as this whole kit is originally made by Italeri and reboxed and issued by Revell AG. I built the first Italeri version back in the late 80's, kit No 772, and here is a couple of pictures of it.

Thank you. No I haven't tried that as the cowl vent grille is quite a challenge to get to look nice afterwards.

I used the MCG photo etch kit for Revell's 55 Chevy kits on my AMT 55 Chevy build, the Revell kits are 1:25th scale so it fits quite good. I cut out the kit grille from the surrounding, painted that with Alclad II Chrome and put in the photo etched grille in from behind, you have to modify it and cut off the upper corners as it's slightly too big there, but it works fine. For a more correct look you should cut the upper bar loose at the fender edges and attach it to the hood, but I didn't do that on this build.

Very nice build of one of my favourite kits. I have never seen the '71 'Cuda with single plug heads tho', only the '70, on all pictures I have seen of the '71 it has dual plug heads.

Interesting build. I'm planning to do a Featherlite type 53 foot race transporter trailer myself in the future so I'm following this with great interest. What are you going to use for the trailer suspension?

I'm a little late to reply as I have been busy with other things. But as many here have said...and I myself...nitro and alcohol aftermarket engine blocks för drag racing purposes has no water jackets, not even the early Donovan 392 based 417 that came 1971 and the early Keith Black 426 based block that came 1973, they are solid blocks to be as strong as possible and that has been the way ever since. In the early days they used iron production blocks wich of course had waterjackets, later when the aftermarket blocks came they still had water jackets in the cylinder heads to cool them...and in many photos from the early to mid 70's you see one water filling neck on each head, but they did away with that later and the heads are also solid billet pieces machined from a lump of aluminum and they use the large ammount of fuel injected to the engine as the only coolant nowadays. I have seen the process myself when I visited and got a tour of the John Force Racing Headquarters in Yorba Linda, CA in 2003 (before he moved everything except administration and museum to Brownsburg, IN), I was told that each cylinder head took 40 hours in a CNC milling machine and further 8 hours of manual work on it to get a finished product. However, this is a hobby where we build models and you can do whatever you want with your model, so if you want your engine to be watercooled that's okay with me, who knows, you could have an aftermarket block with water jackets specially made for you...no one can tell the difference and mostly everything is possible...it's all up to your imagination. The Sid Waterman Mega Bertha fuel pump from the first photo in this thread is a bit "overkill" for a salt flats engine as it pumps 116 gallons per minute @ 600 PSI of pressure and would drench any engine except for a nitro motor, but there are smaller capacity pumps you can use instead, they looks like that but are a bit shorter...and are red. Waterman (and some others) also has belt driven fuel pumps and even cable driven fuel pumps wich allows you to put the pump virtually anywhere on the chassis..

Impressive build Jaroslav.

If it's a gas or maybe even alcohol burning engine it's no problems at all. And you can cool a Nitro engine with water if you use engine blocks and cylinder heads with water jackets, they did that in the 70's. But modern Nitro and Alcohol engines used in drag racing don't have any water jackets, they are built from solid billet blocks and heads machined from large pieces of aluminum and it's only the large fuel volume injected in these engines that cools them enough so they don't melt...so even a Nitro/Alcohol engine is liquid cooled, but not in the same way. The problem is that an engine block with water jackets is not as strong as a solid block so you have to reduce the power quite a lot to get the engine to stay together as Nitro is hard on parts, and I don't think it's possible to run a Nitro engine for some length of time under power other than the few seconds a drag race lasts without failiure to something...and Nitromethane is very expensive as Dale said and a modern Nitro engine uses more than 15 gallons in a sub 4 second run. So yes, it can maybe be done, but I don't think it's either practically or economically justifiable to do it.

Of course you can relocate the fuel pumps to reduce engine length, they are as said driven from the camshaft on a Nitro and Alcohol engine in drag racing as there are no space issues there, but they could be driven by a belt from a crankshaft pulley and mounted somewhere else on or near the engine.

Yes it is, but Bob's son Billy did use it in the late 90's, and some others, and NHRA did say after the mysterious Wayne County brake in in 1998 that any use of Nitrous Oxide in any form is prohibited in the Pro Stock Class.

I have tried Castrol Super Clean on chrome plated parts and the plating dissappears in minutes and you'll see it go away if the CSC is fresh, it takes a bit longer for the laquer but it will remove that also as CSC also removes paint...at least it did on the plated parts i tried it on (Revell) and I left them in a couple of hours and the result was bare plastic.

Nice build Pavel. I had the same idea for improving the rear wheels as you use on this one when I bought my Revell (ex Monogram) Kenworth and Peterbilt Snap kits some time ago, I haven't built them yet but I didn't like the shallow look on the original kit wheels so I tried Italeri outer rings and it looked a lot better...so that's what I'm going to use when I build my kits too...I don know wich tires to use yet but that will for sure clear up when I start the build.

Those pictures are screen captures from the movie so the original owner of the rights should be MGM as in Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer. MGM Studios Inc. 245 N Beverly Dr Beverly Hills, CA 90210 USA Phone: (310) 440-3000 I'm looking forward to more updates on this build.

I'm following this build with great interest as I'm planning to build one myself in the future. One thing tho' the name of the driver (handle: "Love Machine"/"Pig Pen") of the Paulie Hauling Mack Cruiseliner in the movie is apperantly Bobby and not Paulie. That's the name Martin "Rubber Duck" Penwald says when he wants Melissa to help "Pig Pen" in the meeting with the New Mexico Governor Jerry Haskins when he himself is leaving to get "Spider Mike" in Alvarez TX. Burt Young who played "Pig Pen" has played a caracter named Paulie in the Rocky movie from 1976, and some says that the Paulie Hauling name comes from that and it could possibly be so as the Rocky movie predates the Convoy movie wich are from 1978...but I don't know.

I just got me a set of Bens 2-hole Budds for trailers (casted by Jamie) for an upcomming BJ And The Bear Truck/Trailer project and I have to say they are top notch. I also got a couple of sets of 10-hole wide fronts with high flotation tires at the same time, and I got a couple of sets of Truck Mate 5-hole wheels earlier for my Tyone Malone Transporters...and they are of the same quality,

Well after what I know NHRA Top Fuel and Nitro Funny Car uses 36 X 17.5-16 tire code 2681, they are 36.6 inches in actual diameter, 17.3 actual thread width and are for 16 inch beadlock rim...and of course the hight grows with speed. Pro Stock uses 33.5 X 17-16 with 33.4 actual diameter, 17.4 inch actual thread width and 16 inch beadlock rims. Alcohol classes and Pro Mod use either 34.5 X 17-16 or 36 X 17-16. All this according to Good Year themselves http://www.racegoodyear.com/tires/pdf/Drag_010313.pdf

Great work on the trailer. I have planned to do one sometime in the future also.

The Tyrone Malone trucks, the Super Boss, Papa Truck; Bandag Bandit and Hideout Truck fetches horridious money on "fleabay" nowadays. I also would like to see the old ERTL Great Dane Reefer again.

I've got the AITM Rubber Duck resin kit, it's a very nice kit but unfortunately it doesn't have the correct Tip Turbine air cleander.

Don't know about resin but there is a set in the recent Revell Farkonas, Coil & Minnick Chi-Town Hustler 69 Charger Funny Car. That set has beadlock rings but they are the only ones I'm aware of.