1972coronet

Shifter's different ; it's either a Verti-Gate or a Ram Rod . Appears to have linelock, too.

Tao & Emmy taking a sun snooze on my dad's bed. Emily's birthday was on the 2nd - but I didn't find that out until yesterday ; my friend Brad Miles ( he adopted Emily's sister, April ) mentioned that to me.

I found this sweet photo* of a '69 Beaumont , its operator feedin' it the onions. * Instagram page Instagram

Original issue (1967-1969 annuals) had the crossram intake for the Hemi. It's in the newer - latest two - reissues of the '69 kit, carburetors and all.

If one really wants to get nitty-gritty about the colour primer used on Challengers / Barracudas : - Grey was used in Hamtramck (Michigan) - Black was used in Los Angeles (1970-only) Blackout was sprayed (to varying degrees) on the grille-side of the radiator core support, front wheel wells, rear wheel wells, between rear wheel wells (i.e., axle region), and the driveshaft tunnel. Should one not want to go bonkers with the blackout / undercoat, one could just simply overspray body colour along the rocker panels, and the - as you've noted - full engine compartment and firewall ; engine-side of rad core support, too. Naturally, dark colour paint ( Black, Dark Blue, Dark Green ) didn't receive the blackout on the rad core support.

VCG Resins offers them... but only with their Chrysler LA Engine kit. IMO, the engine kit is worth the price of admission ! Small Block Mopar Stock Engine Kit (3 Versions available) — VCG Resins by Reese

...back into your shopping basket I would hope ! C'mon, man ! Work your magick with that rascal !

I've long found the car's nomenclature to be redundant : D-500 ! Haha. One suggestion, good sir : when you get to the engine/trans combo, keep in mind that '61 was the last year of the cast iron , A-488 Torqueflite (AMT '58 Chrysler 300 is the best source for that trans, IMO, as it includes the "park" drum on the back). Why'd you lose interest in the '64 Le Mans ?

Planned obsolescence , by and large. The average person won't : - Spend the small fortune to have the dealership replace the expensive bulbs - Do it themselves (whether that's due to time constraints or not possessing the ability to "dig in") So, what happens ? Well, when combined with other expensive service requirements / recommendations, it's easier to just dump the vehicle , and buy an new one. Or, just don't operate the vehicle at night (haha).

Not that I'm coming to the defence of Marketplace - one can get ripped off anywhere. When I went to buy my "Outlaw" , I took just enough cash with me to put a hold on the car. I figured that it's better to be potentially taken for 200$ than 1,000$ in cash. Thankfully I didn't have any issues - seller was friendly enough and all. I ended up leaving a C-note with him before I drove to the bank for the remaining funds. Usually I'd want to meet in a public place to check out what I'm buying, but this - my - case was a little different : I met the seller at his place-of-business.

I bought The Outlaw - my 2004 Crown Victoria , former CHP unit-come-Inglewood Police - from a seller on Marketplace (in spite of my lifelong agoraphobia) in 2021. Zero issues. * disregard the fatso (me) standing peacock-proud by Outlaw. That was four years and 70 lbs. ago

RE: The automatic-equipped models : Column-shift with reverse-pattern manual valvebody ; quadrant reflected this (also, no PARK --- not that that's something one would see in 1/25 scale anyhow) The Mr. 5 & 50 car - the auto - should have welding "scars" on its trans tunnel / floorboards , as Neutral-Drop starts were recommended by NHRA, et al., until the '68 model year - and the intro of the B&M "J" Converter. The 5&50 had a couple of torque converters grenade from the neutral-drop starts, which necessitated welding-up the tunnel and floorboards.

Not his car - crisis actor.

I recommended the newer MPC kits due to their being new. IMO, the old Monogram kits - while fun in their own right - are long-in-the-tooth, tooling-wise. In other words, all of the ad seq. reissues have had an effect on tooling, and therefore the product ( excessive flash, core-shift, etc. ) . which is to say, I wouldn't recommend them as a way for one to 'cut their teeth' . I second the c.1968 V.W. Bug as a great started kit.

I have that (excellent) magazine. Also included are instructions on 'fixing' the AAR ; how-to add the correct 8.75" diff. I really, really wish that Revell would update this to a '71 model. I also wonder why the Sox & Martin-specific Pro Stock parts haven't been included in subsequent issues ? Don't need the S&M livery, just the cool P/S items.

MPC's '68 Coronet kits (convertible and hardtop) and the '71 Demon 340 are nice introductory / starter kits. I would have recommended the AMT '63 Nova , '65 GTO, and '68 GTO kits, but you specified that you don't necessarily like GM cars.

That MPC '69 Barracuda (whose history dates to the '67 annual , shared tooling with AMT) has that lovely Hurst Dual-Gate shifter / console included, too. '68 conversion parts are available : AMT/MPC 68 Plymouth Judy/Lilly Hemi Barracuda Conversion – Harts Parts Resin The correct A-100 Van seats aren't available separately - they're included , however, with the corrected interior / conversion for the Revell Darts.

Anyone aware of a '71 Barracuda of NEW tooling ? @SteveG, et alia : I'm just whipping eggs here ; however, I thought that either Revell or Round2 were planning this subject. Naturally, the Revell '70 could serve as a basis for a '71 - but I'd be keen on a MPC-type , similar to the '68 Coronets and '71 Demon, etc.

1987 Buick brochure : 1987-Buick.pdf

I don't remember if the Firebird, et al., had the wraparound backlite every year, of if they shared the Camaro backlite '70-'73 ?

That's a shame that it's permanent. A Swinger 340 would've been SWEET ! Different upholstery vs. the GTS, but that's an 'easy' update.

Only the GSS has the vinyl top. Not sure if the '69 tooling was 'irreversibly' backdated to create the '68 - be a shame if that's the case. FWIW - the '68 LO23 was slated for 1996 or 1997 originally. It was shown in the Revell catalogue , but didn't appear until about 15 years ago.

FWIW, I made the mistake of wet sanding ( "smoothing" ) Tamiya primer (rattle can) as the final step before colour coats. The finish -prior to applying clear- was actually patchy and splotchy ! I used Tamiya paints for every step , primer to colour to clear. After I stripped the body, I followed the same procedure, this time skipping the de facto burnishing of the primer. Zero problems - paint laid down perfectly. I use sandable / scratch-fill primer only where it's needed ( i.e., I tape off the surrounding panels, etc.) , and I keep the filler primer application to a minimum.

I've seen the 1:1 in person a few times - it's a beauty ! Make sure to paint the steering wheel white.