maltsr

The builds look pretty good from where I'm sitting Jonathan, and you build fast . I'm only part way through my first build, but number 2 arrived today on a not so slow boat from China

The Celica is looking really good Michael, as are yours Jonathan. Do I see two Ferraris? Slow progress on the E-type, repainted some of the body because gloss paint showed some uneveness in the bodywork - looks much better now Got the engine painted and added a distributor made from sprue (kit doesn't include one) before adding wiring. A wash applied to the wheels too to bring out the spokes.

Looking forward to seeing it Austin. Just take your time (don't ask how I know that!)

Thanks again Virgil

Thanks Virgil

Raining today so got it finished - see 'Under Glass'

The Revell 1931 Model A fits nicely on the '32 chassis with just a slight shortening of the chassis wheelbase and a bit of work on the floorpan. I used the flathead engine & chassis from the sedan version, adding plug wires and a fuel block with lines. The bonnet (hood) was joined to make it one-piece. I don't like the treatment of the doors on the real car or the model, so the hinges were removed and the doors modified with strip styrene to fit flush. Wheels are Radirs from a Thunderbolt kit on parts box tyres with hand painted whitewalls, using Games Workshop 'Warhammer' paint. The purple is auto paint from a rattle can and the flames were pirated from the AMT '32 Vicky. The interior features tuck n' roll made with half-round styrene and a photoetch guage cluster and vents from the MCG 1932 set. After building several '32's, it makes a nice change to see a 1930/31 grill

I use Tamiya a lot and agree that warming the can helps. I pop the can into a jug of hot water while setting up the parts for spraying, then shake the can well for 30 seconds or so. I usually spray a few light mist coats from about 10 inches away, these dry very quickly, and then a wet coat. Move in closer for the wet coat, I get as close as about 6 inches and move the can quickly to avoid runs. Watch the paint build up and become smooth. Leave for 10 minutes then another wet coat. Same routine for the Tamiya clear, but I usually wait a couple of days after applying the colour before light sanding and clearcoating. Be aware that the wet coats may tend to pull the paint away from door edges and panel lines Some colours seem to lay down really nice as jbwelda says, the solid reds, dark metallic blue are easy to use. As always, practice and don't get disheartened. Once you find the Goldilocks zone for the wet coats, all is sweet - not too wet (runs) and not too dry (orange peel) My recent build of the Speedwagon required virtually no sanding or polishing but this took years of practice and self denial .

I got some paint on the E-type today. I spent quite some time during the week smoothing out the body, removing mold lines and filling sink marks. The Series 1 has chrome trim running along the tops of the front fenders so these were duplicated with strip styrene. If you're interested in one of these Jonathan, perhaps the latest issue from Revell of Germany might be a better starting point? As you can see, I went with plan A because I had to buy some Light Blue Pearl for another CBP. I'll leave it for a couple of days before light sanding and clear coats.

Made some more progress this week. The interior has been fitted with tuck n' roll made from half-round styrene - so-called because the pack only got half-round the car, and had to buy a second pack this morning! More interior work included fitting an MCG photoetch dash panel, decal and vents from the 1932 Ford set. More gloss clear on the body/fenders and a little polishing before applying satin black to the roof and running board mats. Hope to get this baby finished over the weekend, or at least in time for our monthly club meeting on Thursday.

Thanks Rob. I arrive just before Xmas and leave on 5 January. PM sent.

Made some progress tonight on the 1932 B400. The body was too wide at the bottom and had to be 'reshaped' by immersing in hot water and then cold, all the while being wrapped in rubber bands to preserve the body in its correct shape. First time I have tried this, it seemed to work (so far) Lots of cutting, filing and sanding to fit the interior bucket onto the Revell '32 chassis between the rear fenders. First mock-up with wheels from the parts box. This 1931 Model A was started before I joined the CBP but is almost finished now and has been taking a lot of my building time.

Great build

very nice - I like the black on black

Thanks guys I already googled it and the first selection was Grand Prix Hobbies which came up as closed in September, so I thought I would ask on the forum. Thanks 69mopar, Magic Box isn't far from where I'll be staying

I will be visiting Vancouver over the Christmas period to see family - are there any hobby shops that I should visit? I would also like to catch up with any local modellers if possible. Cheers Paul

Wow!! what a paint job!

Thanks Virgil. It’s encouragement and inspiration from great builders such as yourself that keeps the juices flowing in mere mortals like me.

I'll join this one too - I have a '64 1/2 convertible to do and a Shelby GT350. I have also painted the body of a Lindberg '63 Mustang II concept - or is that too early?

This arrived in the mail today - may I join in?

This is my first CBP so am a little nervous and excited at the same time, but looking forward to seeing how the other builds come together. My first car is the E-type I was kindly given by a fellow club member that has been on my 'to-build' pile for a while - this CBP has inspired me to subject it to some putty, glue and paint. As you can see, it's red and in need of a little TLC, it also comes with a cracked windscreen surround . Had I been doing this in the security and privacy of my workbench, it would have been covered in Tamiya Light Blue Pearl, but in the public domain I'm worried about bleed through so I plan on sticking with red, Tamiya red of course, so hopefully any bleed through won't show . Here's my inspiration: The kit tyres (L) are too narrow for my liking, so I dug these out of the parts box ( R) - the wires just about fit, and the tyres in turn just about fit in the arches. Back to the workbench!

Hi Jonathan Put me down for an E-type Jag and a Mercedes DTM race car.

I'll be watching with interest Steve, having built one of these myself.

Having built eight of these kits already, thought I would do something different with this one. Using the latest version of the kit, the '64 Fairlane street machine, I was able to select the non-teardrop hood, because this is no drag racer..... Instead, out came the hacksaw and off came the roof I have already decided on the colour but not sure about the wheel/tyre combo yet.

Terrific job