'67 Chevelle SS 396 (Under Glass ***3-May-2015***)

[taaron76]

Now that the '53 Ford F100 is complete, I couldn't sit still for too long. I've been eyeballing more Chevelle's lately and picked up a '66 and '67. I wanted to keep this one as close to stock "looking" as possible. I love the factory wheels and everything else that came out of the factory as stock. The only thing I did was lower it a tad, but other than that, it will be stock.

I also wanted to try to be a little more detailed with the chassis since I haven't gone all out on one yet. This one will have brake lines, emergency brake lines and fuel lines incorporated into the build. I've never ran any of those lines on any of my other builds, so this one will be a first and hopefully a part of all of my builds. My weakest link has always been the chassis and interior, so I'm hoping as I move along with builds, I get more creative like some of the pro's on this site.

Exterior color will be a royal-ish metallic blue that I mixed myself using Tamiya acrylics. Clear coat will be Tamiya as well... I only use acrylics. Interior will be black.

I cut out the chunks of plastic they called springs and made my own springs and added them to the front suspension. You can't really see them, but they are there. I moved the front spindles up to get the ride height I was looking for. This kit is very easy to modify if you want to lower it a little.







This kit didn't come with a rear sway/torsion bar, so I made one and slapped it in there. Probably not perfect, but it will do. I also tossed the plastic chunks of springs and made some to fit the rear with the ride height I was looking for. If the ride height is too low, I can stretch the springs out a little while they are installed. If the ride height is too high, I can compress them. The shocks are painted to match the body color. Again, this is my first time attempting to run brake lines, so be easy on me. I will run the remaining line from the rear valve later.









Here is the stance I was looking for.






Thoughts, comments and constructive criticism(s) are always welcome. This kit is moving a lot WAY faster than I anticipated. Its a good thing I have a '66 Chevelle in the box. Thanks!

Tim

Edited May 4, 2015 by taaron76

[mikemodeler]

That is coming along nicely! I like the stance and the chassis detail is excellent.

What color did you have in mind for the exterior and interior?

Is the '66 Chevelle you have on deck the Lindberg version?

[taaron76]

That is coming along nicely! I like the stance and the chassis detail is excellent.

What color did you have in mind for the exterior and interior?

Is the '66 Chevelle you have on deck the Lindberg version?

Thanks, Mike! If you take a look at the rear shocks, that is the body color. i mixed it with leftover Tamiya acrylics i had left over from previous builds. Its like a metallic royal blue. I did it messing around and wound up liking it. Interior will be black, for the most part.

Here is the kit:

The other Chevelle is a '65. Sorry about that.

Tim

Edited April 14, 2015 by taaron76

[microwheel]

Nice start Tim. And I think your gonna have a great time working up all the chassis detail. You'll learn with each build. Trust me on that. That's how I learned over the years. Each build I attempted detail work on taught me something new. My first attempts weren't all that great by a long shot, but they still hold a special place on my shelf for the experience they helped me with. And I still find myself learning with each build I do today. I also learn alot from fellow modelers. So ask lots of questions when or if ya get stuck on something along the way. If it helps, may I suggest, your rear brake line should follow the rear end contour just as you did with your torsion bar only on the top side of the rear end. And you can use pieces of scrap photo etched tree frame from any photo etched stuff you have as brackets to tie the brake line to the top of the axle tubes. Just cut 2 strips from a photo etch parts tree and bend them around a straight pin to create a loop for the brake line, and then slide them over the brake line, one for each side, leave a slight extra length to tack them to the rear end tubes. It really helps give it that realistic look.

[taaron76]

Nice start Tim. And I think your gonna have a great time working up all the chassis detail. You'll learn with each build. Trust me on that. That's how I learned over the years. Each build I attempted detail work on taught me something new. My first attempts weren't all that great by a long shot, but they still hold a special place on my shelf for the experience they helped me with. And I still find myself learning with each build I do today. I also learn alot from fellow modelers. So ask lots of questions when or if ya get stuck on something along the way. If it helps, may I suggest, your rear brake line should follow the rear end contour just as you did with your torsion bar only on the top side of the rear end. And you can use pieces of scrap photo etched tree frame from any photo etched stuff you have as brackets to tie the brake line to the top of the axle tubes. Just cut 2 strips from a photo etch parts tree and bend them around a straight pin to create a loop for the brake line, and then slide them over the brake line, one for each side, leave a slight extra length to tack them to the rear end tubes. It really helps give it that realistic look.

Thanks Jim! I will take all of the pointers I can get. I'll be referring back your Vette build to help me with the chassis detail. I do have some PE clamps that I can use to fit what you recommended, so I will give that a shot. I need to get some more wire from Michael's or Hobby Lobby in order to be scaled correctly for the e-brake lines. I will probably grab all sorts of gauges in order to have some scaling options.

Any particular gauge you are using for brake lines, e-brake and fuel lines? Thanks!

Tim

[microwheel]

Thanks Jim! I will take all of the pointers I can get. I'll be referring back your Vette build to help me with the chassis detail. I do have some PE clamps that I can use to fit what you recommended, so I will give that a shot. I need to get some more wire from Michael's or Hobby Lobby in order to be scaled correctly for the e-brake lines. I will probably grab all sorts of gauges in order to have some scaling options.

Any particular gauge you are using for brake lines, e-brake and fuel lines? Thanks!

Tim

Hi Tim, you can also look for my 70 1/2 baldwin motion camaro for more chassis references. Here is a link for the workbench topic for it. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=94747&hl=%2Bbaldwin+%2Bmotion+%2Bcamaro The e-brakes run a little different on it than they would on your chevelle, but the rear brake lines should be pretty much the same. As far as brake and fuel line material, any soft metal bead wire about the same gauge as scale plug wire will work just fine, or you can use scale plug wire and just paint it with steel or aluminum model masters metalizer or tamiya bright silver. You can also strip the outer coating off of scale plug wire and use the core for e-brake cable material. I've done that many time.

[taaron76]

Jim, what did you use for your brake proportioning valve? For the e-brake cables, I will strip some wire that I have in order to get them close to scale. I think I have the right scale wire for the fuel lines.

Tim

[microwheel]

Jim, what did you use for your brake proportioning valve? For the e-brake cables, I will strip some wire that I have in order to get them close to scale. I think I have the right scale wire for the fuel lines.

Tim

Tim, for the brake proportioning valve, I scratch make them out of evergreen plastic strips, most hobby stores carry it though I don't think Michaels does. Hobby Lobby might though, if they dont carry everygreen brand they may carry plastruct brand. Most Local hobby stores that carry train supplies will usually have both brands. It comes it different sizes so you'll have to kinda guess what size will be big enough. Just buy some plastic strips and plastic round rod and then cut and sand, glue together and drill out to the shape you want it. If you cant find any, then you can always use a piece of scrap plastic parts sprue (tree) from your model kit and then cut and sand shape it to look like you want it to. It's really more of a use your imagination or research the real car as best you can on google to get a idea of what they should look like.

[taaron76]

Awesome Jim, thanks! I figured you'd make just about anything you could without purchasing it, first. I'll have to get a little creative, but that shouldn't be too bad. Thanks again!

Tim

[Stray]

Looking good! And coming together a lot faster than my '67

Chassis detailing... it's fun. At least you have some okay starting points. I'm doing the AMT chevelle and it has a terribly simplified front end.

[slusher]

Really nice work right from the start Tim, another build i am so interested in watching...

[mikemodeler]

Looking good, thanks for the explanation on the paint, it should look great on this body.

[Ron Hamilton]

I enjoyed talking to you last Saturday at the meeting, and I loved seeing your work in person. This one looks to be another winner!!!

[taaron76]

Looking good! And coming together a lot faster than my '67

Chassis detailing... it's fun. At least you have some okay starting points. I'm doing the AMT chevelle and it has a terribly simplified front end.

I'm sure you will make something out of nothing with the front end. That's what makes this hobby so fun.

Thanks for the compliments!

Tim

[taaron76]

Really nice work right from the start Tim, another build i am so interested in watching...

Thanks Carl, I always appreciate your welcomed comments. Cheers buddy!

Tim

[taaron76]

I enjoyed talking to you last Saturday at the meeting, and I loved seeing your work in person. This one looks to be another winner!!!

The pleasure was mine, Ron. It was nice meeting the gang from M.A.M.A and everyone was very inviting and courteous. I look forward to getting together with more of you all. Hopefully this one will be ready for the show on the May 9th. I'm going all out on this one, so hopefully it turns out good enough to get a couple looks. Regardless, its still fun!

Tim

[taaron76]

Just a small update from tonight... This blue is a combination of metallic teal, royal blue and metallic blue, so I'm not real sure what color blue you'd call it. I wanted something like electric blue with a hint of metallic in it and it seemed to be just that. I accidentally mixed Tamiya acrylic and Model Master acrylic and didn't realize it until after I put the first coat on. I kept my fingers crossed that there wouldn't be any adverse or unwanted effects from mixing the two, but it seemed to flow fine and dry nicely. It's in the dehydrator now and tomorrow I will give it a light wetland and then apply the clear coat. I thought I had enough clear, but there wasn't enough for the standard 5-7 coats that I usually put on. Oh well, this will give me the chance to colorsand a little, which I generally never do with the base coat.

I know once the clear coat goes on, it will pull some the metallic out in the paint and make that blue pop a little more.

Tim

Edited April 15, 2015 by taaron76

[Stray]

I'm sure you will make something out of nothing with the front end. That's what makes this hobby so fun.

Thanks for the compliments!

Tim

That blue is gonna look great with clear. Reminds me of an old '78 Falcon streeter I had.

Here is what I had to work with in the AMT kit. The most basic steering set up on any kit ever. And a pic of the front end with the scratch I built.\

[taaron76]

Color sanded the Chevelle to get some of the dust out today and followed up with one quick base coat, then put it in the dehydrator for about 30 minutes prior to shooting some clear. This one has about 6-7 coats of clear on it, which gives me lots of room to wetsand and buff. It came out pretty good, but hard to show the detail in these pics. The metallic is very subtle, but its there.

Tim

[mikemodeler]

That is going to be one sweet looking model when you are done! That blue is spectacular, just enough metallic and the clear really brings it out.

[taaron76]

No major updates today? But I did shoot some paint on the remaining parts for the motor.

Have you guys ever used Maskol, made by Humbrol? I used it for the first time to paint the transmission and it works really good. It came off really easy as well.

Tim

[microwheel]

No major updates today? But I did shoot some paint on the remaining parts for the motor.

Have you guys ever used Maskol, made by Humbrol? I used it for the first time to paint the transmission and it works really good. It came off really easy as well.

Tim

I've heard of the Humbrol brand of paints before, but have to admit I haven't heard of Maskol. I'll have to check and see of my LHS has it and maybe give it a try. Looks like it works pretty good from what I see of your pics.

[taaron76]

Jim - It works really good in the places that you can't get a good seal with masking tape. I covered the bell housing with it, let it dry for about 15 minutes and then taped the rest of engine off with masking tape. When I peeled the masking tape off, the Maskol came off with the tape with no harm to the paint and the separation line was great! I plan on trying it out in other areas in the future, but so far, its seems to be a really good product. The only drawback is that the smell is horrid. lol

Tim

[Yo Jutt]

That's a nice blue!!

[taaron76]

Most of the engine plumbing is complete. I had to add a couple of small details here and there, like an alternator bracket, but it is complete for the most part. Next up is running the brake lines, e-brake lines and fuel lines on the chassis. I'll be sure to drink my cup of patience prior to starting on that. lol

Tim

Last pic with the breather on.