1001 uses for Bondic on Fotki 7/30/17

[426-Hemi]

Bondic? Never heard of it..... BUT, you all got my full attention!

[Foxer]

Bondic? Never heard of it..... BUT, you all got my full attention!

 

Be sure you go back to the first post of this thread for the link to the thread here that started me on this "trial" thread ad the vender's web page. I'm going to post every use I find for Bondic in out hobby here.

Edited February 29, 2016 by Foxer

[crazyjim]

A ton of great info, Mike. Thanks.

[426-Hemi]

Thanks Mike, I'll have a look on the first posting, I have to admit I was skimming the threads as at times, time itself..... is well..... you know LOL

[Foxer]

Did another casting of a transmission tunnel I needed for a TR4A build. Just making a mold and coating it with Boncic proved the quickest and easiest way. I had a tunnel from a TR3 kit that was the perfect fit but I didn't want to use the kit piece. In hindsight, I should have just cast the whole tunnel and made as one piece. As it was, I used some tubing and flat pieces to construct the rounded sections. Here's the walk thru in photos ..

Edited July 30, 2017 by Foxer

[Foxer]

I needed to cast a couple GMC logos from a mold off the grill of the A-Team Van ... so Bondic to the rescue in 10 minutes total.

Edited July 30, 2017 by Foxer

[Longbox55]

I gave it try on clear parts. Installed a couple headlamp lenses in their bezels from an AMT '57 Chevy truck. Worked great! Since it doesn't set up until you hit it with the led, it was very easy to align the lenses correctly, and it set up just fine, even through the clear plastic. No hazing at all, everything is crystal clear.

[ChrisBcritter]

Just finished a test piece of side trim from a '58 Ford which I want to use for my '56 Plymouth. I rubbed down a piece of aluminum foil over the door trim, lifted it off and added Bondic - it seems to have worked quite well. The foil didn't stick to it strongly but it could be re-foiled using adhesive.

[Foxer]

Just finished a test piece of side trim from a '58 Ford which I want to use for my '56 Plymouth. I rubbed down a piece of aluminum foil over the door trim, lifted it off and added Bondic - it seems to have worked quite well. The foil didn't stick to it strongly but it could be re-foiled using adhesive.

That's cool ... I never thought of using it for side trim. I guess it would have been nice if it stuck to the foil, but Bondic doesn't stick well to smooth surfaces. I have sanded any plastic I wanted it to stick to.

[charlie8575]

So this stuff would be great for making door handles and scripts than?

Door handles for sure.

 

I think scripts could be done if you got a good enough mold. It would be a little flexible being that thin ... an interesting idea. Getting it chrome would probably take some Alclad. I'll have to look at some bodies for some scripts to try on.

I remember seeing a trick using aluminum foil to cast scripts. I wonder if that might do the trick? Mold, cure, perhaps sand down a bit, and glue.

Charlie Larkin

[Foxer]

 

I remember seeing a trick using aluminum foil to cast scripts. I wonder if that might do the trick? Mold, cure, perhaps sand down a bit, and glue.

Charlie Larkin

I think Bondic would work ok with the 'cast in aluminum mold' method as well, thou quicker and less messy than using resin.

I'd still tend to do it by covering script in BMF, painting over it and rubbing off as a better method.

[charlie8575]

I think Bondic would work ok with the 'cast in aluminum mold' method as well, thou quicker and less messy than using resin.

I'd still tend to do it by covering script in BMF, painting over it and rubbing off as a better method.

Oh, I'm thinking if you want to make a copy of a script to apply to another model.

An example being the GALAXIE lettering on the back of the '63 Fords; the AMT 500-XLs didn't have it, but the formal hardtop promos do. 

Resin would work, but as you pointed out, you usually have to buy a fair amount of it, and it has a limited shelf-life. 

Charlie Larkin

[Foxer]

Oh, I'm thinking if you want to make a copy of a script to apply to another model.

An example being the GALAXIE lettering on the back of the '63 Fords; the AMT 500-XLs didn't have it, but the formal hardtop promos do. 

Resin would work, but as you pointed out, you usually have to buy a fair amount of it, and it has a limited shelf-life. 

Charlie Larkin

ah ... wasn't thinking.

I'm sure Bondic would not stick to the aluminum foil after filling the script impression. It really likes rough surfaces to stick to, even plastic should be sanded first.

You make me wonder if casting the script in silicon and casting it in Bondic might be an option for 'larger' scripts. Bondic is a bit flexible when that thin, not brittle like resin. It would need Alclad or something to finish. It's probably getting too small to bother when other means are available to get a finished script.

Edited February 29, 2016 by Foxer

[ChrisBcritter]

Just finished a test piece of side trim from a '58 Ford which I want to use for my '56 Plymouth. I rubbed down a piece of aluminum foil over the door trim, lifted it off and added Bondic - it seems to have worked quite well. The foil didn't stick to it strongly but it could be re-foiled using adhesive.

OK, just finished doing the rest of the '58 Ford trim for the driver's side of the Plymouth and snapped a quick shot of it laid out for position. Of course some adjustments will be made to fit the overall length and the new cut line for the door (changing it to a two-door sedan). I decided to keep the ribbed insert as well.

Edited February 14, 2016 by ChrisBcritter

[crazyjim]

I find myself using Bondic more and more.

[Foxer]

OK, just finished doing the rest of the '58 Ford trim for the driver's side of the Plymouth and snapped a quick shot of it laid out for position. Of course some adjustments will be made to fit the overall length and the new cut line for the door (changing it to a two-door sedan). I decided to keep the ribbed insert as well.

 

That's nice. I think Bondic is more suited to making thin trim as it's not brittle like resin.

[Foxer]

I find myself using Bondic more and more.

How about dropping some examples here, Jim?  This thread is meant for everyone to chart their experiences with this new product to the hobby.

[crazyjim]

I don't have pics of making an exhaust system from floral wire, but I used the Bondic to secure the wire to the frame.

[MoparWoman Jamie]

Man, I got to see if any of my local stores carries it. I could really use this stuff.

[Foxer]

It's good to see some of you are trying this product as I believe it to be a completely new tool for our building. The "4-second cure with no rush to cure it" makes this unlike every "glue" we have at our disposal. It doesn't replace any of the  dozen or so glues I use ... it sets a new category of glue. I encourage anyone using this to post your experience and what you've used it for. For me, rather than a glue, I use it most as a quick casting material.

One new thing I've tried was bonding two brass tubes together, They butted at 90 degrees and one was rounded for a tight fit. I smeared it around the joint so the light cure would strike it. The Bondic would not bond to the brass. I expected this as the brass is just too smooth, I believe. There is probably a better engineering explanation but I don't have an engineering testing lab here to test it. I ended up using JB Weld epoxy.

 

 

 

Edited July 30, 2017 by Foxer

[bobthehobbyguy]

Wondering if you scuffed up the brass first if it would work.

[Foxer]

I did rough it up with sandpaper, but a pretty fine grit. It stuck a little but came apart as I handled the piece.

[Art Anderson]

Is this stuff clear enough to do headlight lenses?

Bondic is water-clear.

Art

[stitchdup]

Has anyone tried using bondic on a painted surface?

[peteski]

Bondic is water-clear.

Art

It actually gets very slight amber tint after it sets, but still passable for clear resin.