landman Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 What is the best way to cut very small brass & aluminum tubing? I was using the razor saw but it obviously doesn't like it.
3100 chevy Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Put it under an exacto knife and roll the knife back and forth.
Mike_G Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Put it under an exacto knife and roll the knife back and forth. That's how I do it- score it then snap it.
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 You need a very fine-tooth blade for a razor saw to give good results. I use a 32 tpi (tooth-per-inch) razor saw in a miter box. Works very well for me, though the ends usually need to be dressed slightly after cutting...but this is SOP when cutting any kind of metal with any kind of tool.
Mike Kucaba Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Harbor Freight sells a small chop saw. It works well for cutting metallic tubing of any shape and gets a clean straight cut. I've even cut some stainless hypo tubing with it. Last I looked it was about $20.00.
GeeBee Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Here's the K&S tool I have, don't use it that often, but when I do, it give a good cut, and of course the end is always true, so no filing is necessary
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Here's the K&S tool I have, don't use it that often, but when I do, it give a good cut, and of course the end is always true, so no filing is necessary Nice tool. I haven't seen that particular one before, but in function, it's a scaled-down version of the ones we use for fuel, brake and other metallic tubing in the real-car world. This type of cutter does tend to crimp the tube somewhat at the cut, so the inside of the tube may still need to be dressed.
BirdWatcher Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Nice tool. I haven't seen that particular one before, but in function, it's a scaled-down version of the ones we use for fuel, brake and other metallic tubing in the real-car world. This type of cutter does tend to crimp the tube somewhat at the cut, so the inside of the tube may still need to be dressed. This phenomena has reared it's ugly head more than once for me. Try a cut so you can see how much or how little the cut end rolls down, careful not to clean up the tube beyond the dimensions you require. Sometimes I use my Zona saw and a mitre box, just depends which cigar box is closest to me.
landman Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 I have a little cutter like the one on the right but it doesn't work with anything under 1/8" and even that is tricky. I have used all the methods described above. My next move was going to be a cutting disc in the rotary tool but how do you hold the 1/16" end? I suppose you could put your short piece in the vise and cut flush to the vise.
Foxer Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 I have used all the cutting methods mentioned and have just settled on using my finetooth razor saw in a holder I got from Micro Mark a number of years ago. I don't know what it was called or can find it in their current catalog. I have tried using the "roll xacto knife back and forth method" but find the knife easily slips off track for a 90 degree cut. I find this to be the least accurate method though I know many swear by it. I have the K&S tube cutter but have never used a tube large enough to try it. It does not work on the small tubes I mostly use. Without checking I'd say the smallest tube It will work on is about a quarter inch. Maybe someone can enlighten us on the smallest size. I do use my miter box and razor saw a lot, but the smallest tubes work very well in the tube holder. The end slides out and is clamped by a screw on the side to set length for repeat cuts. The top little lever flips away and then sit atop the tube in the vee and holds it in place. The saw goes into the narrow slot and is easy to keep straight as it's just slightly wider than my 32 tooth razor saw blade. I hold the handle and place it against my bench and saw away. Of course the ends need dressing like any saw cut.
landman Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 I have used all the cutting methods mentioned and have just settled on using my finetooth razor saw in a holder I got from Micro Mark a number of years ago. I don't know what it was called or can find it in their current catalog. I have tried using the "roll xacto knife back and forth method" but find the knife easily slips off track for a 90 degree cut. I find this to be the least accurate method though I know many swear by it. I have the K&S tube cutter but have never used a tube large enough to try it. It does not work on the small tubes I mostly use. Without checking I'd say the smallest tube It will work on is about a quarter inch. Maybe someone can enlighten us on the smallest size. I do use my miter box and razor saw a lot, but the smallest tubes work very well in the tube holder. The end slides out and is clamped by a screw on the side to set length for repeat cuts. The top little lever flips away and then sit atop the tube in the vee and holds it in place. The saw goes into the narrow slot and is easy to keep straight as it's just slightly wider than my 32 tooth razor saw blade. I hold the handle and place it against my bench and saw away. Of course the ends need dressing like any saw cut. Did you make that little holder yourself?
Foxer Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) Man...THAT is a slick little tool. THAT it is! I was bugged that I couldn't put a link to where this tool can be had .. so here it is .. Micro Mark has a similar one that mounts on the bench Etsy this is very much like mine above And a similar one with a measuring gauge for the tube length Edited June 23, 2015 by Foxer
Muncie Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) Just a thin Dremel abrasive wheel - like the video but different the tubing does get hot.. real hot don't use the flat side of the wheel to smooth the end of the tubing - it will wear and can break the cutting disc. like most power cutting tools, it's something that requires some thoughts about safety... works good to cut steel hobby shop wire/rod as well. Edited June 24, 2015 by Muncie
10thumbs Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 That is a cool looking tool up above! To chop off tubing I use super thin separating disks in a Dremel-type handpiece, then dress the end(s) with a soft rubber wheel. I cut sheet metal this way too. Just a habit. Michael
Foxer Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 That is a cool looking tool up above! To chop off tubing I use super thin separating disks in a Dremel-type handpiece, then dress the end(s) with a soft rubber wheel. I cut sheet metal this way too. Just a habit. Michael That's interesting .. the soft rubber wheel dressing of the ends. Could you be more specific with a photo and exactly what wheel? The rubber wheel doesn't get cut to shreds doing this?
10thumbs Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Hi Mike, I'd have to look up which rubber type wheel should or could be used best in the US. Basically, this would be a 7/8" softer type rubber wheel that's mounted on a mandril for a Dremel handpiece. Maybe 10K rpm's. All of my stuff is from the jeweler/goldsmith and dental branches. The rubber material should be a bit softer than the metal or else you can't get a smooth surface without taking too much material away. These rubber compounds have lots of silicone material in them, so they are not too hard. Hope this helps. Michael
Foxer Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Thanks, Michael. I found this Dremel rubber wheel. Looks small compared to what lodged in my head, but seems made for this use. Being Jeweler's tools, this may be closer. Do any of these look like what you use? I'd really like to try this.
10thumbs Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Mike, the 1st one is a point and is probably too hard since it can be used for ceramics. Better you look for points and wheels for finishing of gold, as they're softer. Usually lighter red or rust in color, white also. Points are not good for smoothing tube ends, they're used for joints and crevices, not flat surfaces. The 2nd link shows the proper size and shape and the proper mandrel, but probably too hard also, hence not so good for brass. Look here, all of the joints and ends were done with only one type of rubber wheel, or point, depending on the area (flat surface or rounded joints). This is a soldered brass tube frame; Soft rubber points and wheels. Quite soft. Michael
Mike Kucaba Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 Google Cratex, or rubberized abrasives. Used these for years as a machinist.
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