jaxenro Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Think the title says it all - i am using dupli-color perfect match scratch filler primer and a little putty and sanding it smooth but: What grit do you sand primer to before applying color coats? I am starting at 320 for the putty and primer but what should I take it down to?
High octane Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 For sanding primer before applying color coats, I usually go over the primer lightly with 600 or 1000 grit and it seems to work just fine.
Snake45 Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 If the primer's reasonably smooth, sometimes I don't sand it at all. When I do sand primer, I use #800 (wet) or a well-worn piece of #600.
Brett Barrow Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Either 1000 grit wet-or-dry or 3200 Micro Mesh pad, both used wet.
Stray Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 I just lick mine. Sure my paintjobs tend to be crappy. But it tastes sooooooo good.
Foxer Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 Just don't do the "wet coat" after a grape Popsicle ...
Exotics_Builder Posted June 25, 2015 Posted June 25, 2015 1000 grit wet/dry or 1500 grit MicroMesh pad. This is Wet Sanded. Need just enough "tooth" for the base coat to better adhere.
Guest Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 I just lick mine. Sure my paintjobs tend to be crappy. But it tastes sooooooo good. ????????that's pretty good!
Hemified71 Posted June 28, 2015 Posted June 28, 2015 (edited) I think you'll be fine with 800-1000 grit ( wet or dry, wet being the better alternative ?) The issue, BEFORE, you start/add colour coats, would be to seal your final primer coats, after sanding ) From experience, putties, any type really, tend to shrink over time & in some cases become visible through the colour coats, especially true for "ghosting"... Areas where mold lines or emblems etc have been sanded off. Sealing will ensure that none of these problems will become visible through your colour coats, especially if you're using any type of automotive paints ( Duplicolor etc ) Hope this helps ?? Edited June 28, 2015 by Hemified71
unclescott58 Posted June 28, 2015 Posted June 28, 2015 Is that what's meant by a wet coat? Wet coat? If questioning wet vs dry sanding, it's just what it says. Wet sanding is done with water. Keeping the sandpaper and/or the model wet when sanding. Finer grits work better wet. Scott
Art Anderson Posted June 29, 2015 Posted June 29, 2015 Personally, I have used 6000-grit polishing cloth from Micromesh for as long as those polishing kits have been in circulation. As I tend to use lacquer primers, this gives me a satin-finish surface, which is, in scale, about as close as I would come to a wet-sanded primer surface on a real car body. Seldom have I ever had paint, either lacquer or even Testor's/Model Master enamels, thinned for airbrushing with lacquer thinner fail to adhere to such a surface-and in the bargain, I get a far smoother, thinner finish straight from the airbrush, requiring a lot less polishing to get a shine. Art
dmk Posted June 29, 2015 Posted June 29, 2015 I think you'll be fine with 800-1000 grit ( wet or dry, wet being the better alternative ) The issue, BEFORE, you start/add colour coats, would be to seal your final primer coats, after sanding ) From experience, putties, any type really, tend to shrink over time & in some cases become visible through the colour coats, especially true for "ghosting"... Areas where mold lines or emblems etc have been sanded off. Sealing will ensure that none of these problems will become visible through your colour coats, especially if you're using any type of automotive paints ( Duplicolor etc ) Hope this helps What do you seal it with?
Hemified71 Posted July 1, 2015 Posted July 1, 2015 What do you seal it with? Zero Paints ( UK ) sell a great sealer or try your local Auto Paint supply/parts store for some sealer or etch primer... ???
b-body fan Posted July 1, 2015 Posted July 1, 2015 If you use an etch primer test it on something first. Some other them have some pretty rowdy solvents is them.
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