chunkypeanutbutter Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Seems I may be buying an '86 Jaguar XJ6 from my mother. Car's been sitting since the spring of 2005. We drove it the winter of '04 and the salt on the roads took the floorboards out. Good news is that it's been on a patch of tar for the past 10 years and not in the grass. Today I asked my mother how much she'd sell it to me for, and she said $500. Once I come up with it, it's mine. Ala Roadkill, I was thinking of putting a FoMoCo V8 in it, and getting another hood to cut a hole for a blower in. I'd like to retain as many of the original parts as possible if I think of selling it at some point, so I wouldn't want to wreck the original hood. Apart from the floorboards, the car is solid. The seats have split and molded, the varnish on the dash has come off, and the paint is getting little "bird-foot" chips in it. Would it be really worth it to swap the V8 into it?
Quick GMC Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 I would probably find a forum where people actually do this. It's more work than just throwing an engine in there, and I have never heard of someone putting a ford motor in there, but there are a ton of Chevy V8 swaps. If you plan on getting your money back out of it, forget it. http://www.johnscars.com/xj/xjv8.html
Quick GMC Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 the 86 is a Series III, piles of junk. You don't want that headache. You'd be better off buying it and lighting it on fire http://www.mez.co.uk/lucas.html
charlie8575 Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 You have a real project. To keep the price manageable, learn how to restore and re-finish wood. Plan on doing your own upholstery, too. Jaguar bodies are touchy, leave the body repair to someone who know what they're doing unless you're a trained bodyman. By '86, the Jag engines were pretty much reliable and were nowhere near as bad leakers as the 1970s-early '80s. I'd seriously look into rebuilding it and putting it back in. I think you'll be quite happy with the performance. You might also want to consider exchanging it and the transmission for rebuilt units from Jasper or one of the other remanufacturers. It could save you a ton. The major problem from what I remember with a couple of my friends with Jags of this vintage was the engine electrical. It might worth looking into upgrading to newer components from Bosch or perhaps even Mallory or MSD if they have something that works. For wiring harnesses, call Rhode Island Wire. They can supply you an all-new harness (or mostly new if they want to re-use your connectors,) and that harness, I can almost guarantee, will out-perform the original Lucas harness. Charlie Larkin
chunkypeanutbutter Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) No fire for this one. I'm rather emotionally attached to it. I recall when it ran that it was a complete cherry. Went up to 70 at the snap of a finger and liked to stay there. As for the engine, I believe that my dad redid some of the wiring with Bosch components. Come to think of it, I even recall the night that we bought it. I must've been four or so years old. Edited July 2, 2015 by chunkypeanutbutter
chunkypeanutbutter Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) At 16 years old your going to tackle this? Why not? It's certainly a faster project than the Volkswagen! Besides, I really, really love working on anything mechanical and making it work. Also, our Ford E150 conversion van that rusted out last year is still sitting in the yard with a V8.... Hmmm... have to consult the owners, maybe. From what I've heard even so far (thanks for the tech write-up, Charlie) the L-6 might be enough oomph to satisfy my hunger for a while, as well as avoid a little trouble with engine mount compatibility, header space, etc. Another question of issue: gas mileage. What could I expect with a V8 in this? I know we barely ever hit 19 with the 6 in it. Ford engines are what I would like to lean towards for choices, but I wouldn't necessarily scoff at a Chevy if it was of decent quality. Edited July 2, 2015 by chunkypeanutbutter
1930fordpickup Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Miles start looking for prices of rebuilt parts before you jump. The brakes ,shocks, gas tank and radiator will also need some attention . It might even be cheaper keeping it all Jag. But the first thing you need to check before any car buy is your insurance cost.
chunkypeanutbutter Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 Miles start looking for prices of rebuilt parts before you jump. The brakes ,shocks, gas tank and radiator will also need some attention . It might even be cheaper keeping it all Jag. But the first thing you need to check before any car buy is your insurance cost. Yep, I know I'll get hammered with the insurance if it's under my name. Radiator is possibly gone. The gas tanks are good... at least the right one should be. That one was replaced, and I think all the fluids were drained before it was parked. Needs tires, some attention to the door hinges and latches, the trunk doesn't completely close, and the window seals are cracked. This stuff I expect from any used car I'll get. Work on a car doesn't frighten me as long as it's not a complete restoration. (This seems nearly close to it, but not a full one )
jbwelda Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Honestly, if you go with this I think you are going to regret it. for one thing if the floorboards really rotted away after one year of salt, there are a lot of other problems down below. Parts are going to cost a mint, and jags continue to have a history of reliability issues. like someone mentioned there are companies that specialize in upgrading these cars (one is Jags that Run or Cats that Run or something similar) and Rhode Island Wiring is a great place to get much improved wiring harnesses, but you are going to have to meet smog standards (in California its a BIG issue; don't know about your state) and that means you will have to put in an engine with computer controlled emissions, again a big job unless you know what you are doing. I say this without judging your age, but this project might sound great to a teenager but for someone with a bit more experience, its just a mess you are getting yourself into. I would really not bother but often people need to learn things for themselves. a Jaguar is a perfect tool for that edumacation...it will forever put you off these sort of projects or at least teach you that sometimes a lot of work and a lot of money only yield something no one else is going to want. especially with a big hole cut in the hood and a blower scoop sticking out. I would suggest building a model of it instead. a lot less heartache involved than with the real thing. jb
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) I own an '86 XJ-6 that I've modded with the John's Cars 700R4 gearbox swap, and I've done two of the same company's smallblock Chebby engine / gearbox swaps. The John's Cars kits are complete, straightforward bolt-ins with good instructions, though some of the engineering of the kits could be a little more 'elegant'. Replacing the aging electronic fuel-injection with a simple carburetted setup cures most of the reliability issues (the HVAC can still be troublesome), and the electrical interface between a carbed engine and the rest of the car is easy. The XJ is a uniboby, so severe floorpan rust (which can start inside the cars from leaky windshield, sunroof, or backlight seals, or stopped drainholes in the door shells, allowing the floors to stay wet underneath the carpets) often migrates into the structural rocker boxes on either side of the car, and into the suspension-attachment points in the rear. It's a big job to repair it correctly either way. I was going to do a 4-cam Ford Modular engine-gearbox swap into mine, but the engine and trans were stolen from a shop I had worked at, before I could pick them up. The smallblock Chebby-powered XJ makes a really nice car. The V8 weighs less than the Jag engine, but will most likely make at least 100HP more (the ol' Jag is only rated at 185). Acceleration is much improved, but the onboard fuel-consumption computer shows the mileage to be about the same. With a 700R4 (4-speed automatic with a lockup torque converter) you should be able to get around 22mpg highway, consistently. In-town fuel-consumption won't be great whatever you do. The car is just heavy. Edited July 2, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy
djflyer Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Bill has some excellent information regarding the benefits of the swap. There are several companies that make LS Chevy swap kits, there is also at least one that makes custom wiring harnesses to accommodate the swap. Check AdvanceAutowire.com - if they don't have it in the catalog, they will usually make one to suit the application. You should also check the website www.britishv8.org. They specialize in british cars that have been planted with something other than the stock engine. Lots of ideas, lots of links, great forum. There is a beautiful '79 XJ6 with a 383 stroker and 700r4 automatic. Just to add some fuel to the fire - if you want to stay FoMoCo, I have seen an XJ6 with a SHO V6. Looked great, don't know if performance was any better.
Mark Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 If I were going to dive into a project like this, I'd start with a solid car.
bobthehobbyguy Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 You are looking at a money pit. Find a solid car you can start with. With the rust you are trying to buikd a house on quicksand.
Pim Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 why a v8? the engine in the car would be a straight six maybe go for something of a similar layout maybe a rb series or a 1/2jz? would definitely be something different as jaguar swaps have being done before
Atmobil Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 I would keep it original, fix the rust (cut out and weld in new where needed) and try and do as much myself if money is an issue (if not, just send it away to the best restorers you can find).
jbwelda Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 if maine is anything like California, forget about swapping your fuel injection for a carburetor. it will not pass the smog referees you will need to take it to. also swapping a manual for an automatic transmission is near impossible to get through the certification process. the trans is part of the smog equipment these days, at least in California. now if you manage to get your car cleared you can go back and make some adjustments and still pass the biannual (it will be annual for 4 or 5 years after the swap) smog checks but initially they go over it with a fine tooth comb looking for problems at the referee place. I know this through having done 2 swaps into mid 80s Toyota land cruisers. and beware of "crate" engines, especially GM. both of mine ran like carp, and burned a quart of oil every 1000 miles within about 20k miles. mechanics I have since talked to said that was normal as their regular crate engines are built just barely within specs and most wear out amazingly quick unless gone through and blueprinted right out of the crate...which of course pretty much negates any convenience gains in buying the factory motor. and a used motor isn't going to pass the emissions test unless its pretty fresh. Maine may be different but in California its getting near impossible to certify an engine swap into an 80s car unless its the same as came out or is a completely correctly converted late model engine. and most of those conversions begin in the fuel tank and go forward from there. also sitting for ten years means a lot else has expired starting with the brakes. bring a big fat wallet and expect to leave the parts shop with a very thin one jb
stavanzer Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 If the car has emotional value, go for it. As many others have commented, it WILL be a Money Pit. Only you can decide if the cost, trouble, and effort will be worth it in the end. I can say that if you are having to wait to get the $500 to buy the car, and you don't have a large trust fund set to come to you when you turn 18, Money will be THE decisive issue with this job. As William Just said, Go On tackle this sucker. It will either Cure you forever of "Projects" or light a fire that will never go out. That part is totally up to you. The other guys who have commented on this car, know far more than I do. My work with engines was Model T Fords (stock) and Buicks. Nothing really relevant to your car. Listen well to them. Good Luck, Alan
Matt Bacon Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 (edited) The going rate for fully running XJ6s with minor cosmetic issues (wheel arch rust, say, or damaged leather interiors) is around £1000 over here. You're going to spend SO much more on it than it's ever going to be worth that you might as well import a good car from Europe to start on! I've lost count of he number of "restored car" ads that I've seen that say something like "Fully restored and repainted over three years with bills for over £50,000. For sale: £20,000." If you really want a project that ends up as a runner, buy a cheap Mustang -- replacement parts for those are so much cheaper than for a Jag... bestest, M. Edited July 2, 2015 by Matt Bacon
Zarana-X Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Extensive rust, especially on a unibody car, or with strut type suspension is a disaster looking for a place to happen. Get the rust assesssed before moving forward and throwing money at it.
cobraman Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 Up to you for sure but I for one would not do it. I believe it will be much harder and cost more than you might expect. All I guess you need is the time, the money, the knowledge, the tools and the room to do it. If you decide to go forward I wish you all the luck and hope you can pull it off.
bobthehobbyguy Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 I would suggest making a list of everything you need to fix on the car. Break each task into two catagories - parts and labor. Research what parts are going to cost. Labor can you perform the task. Is it something you can do or learn. Do you know how to weld. Are you good enough to do structural welding. Remember your safety is at risk. If not how much will that cost. If you still think you can do it you need to determine if the rust has compromised the structure of the vehicle. Also when you total up all the costs how are you going to get the money and how long will it take. I would recommend doing this for any project. A little planning will save you money and frustration.
chunkypeanutbutter Posted July 2, 2015 Author Posted July 2, 2015 I can weld. Stick, torch, MIG, spot. Decided not to take this project on right now. The floor is on the ground and the bottoms of the front fenders are rusted off. The VW is a little more unique, anyways.
cobraman Posted July 2, 2015 Posted July 2, 2015 If you don't mind me saying I think you made a wise decision. : )
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