Roll Cage

[CountryJoe]

Am thinking about making my own roll cage in 1/25 scale: However, I don't want to do it in plastic... so I was wondering if anyone has used other materials and if there is one thats easier to work with than another.

 

Not sure if it makes a difference or not once everything is painted but... I have access to a wide range of sizes in brass or copper - aluminum of course from the local hobby shop. But unsure how to attach them - any suggestion would be great. 

Edited August 26, 2015 by CountryJoe

[Ace-Garageguy]

One big problem with making scale-model cages in tubing is the tendency for it to collapse during bending. Most of the commercially available bending tools for modelers are junk, don't work, or get stuck on the bent tubes. Soldering of brass is a learned skill, and joining aluminum tube in small diameters is best done with super-glue or epoxy products...which don't stick all that well to aluminum anyway. When you're in the larger scales, 1/12, 1/8 etc, you'll need the strength of metal tube to prevent sagging over time, but not in the smaller scales.

Polystyrene ROD is the material of choice, in the smaller scales particularly (1/24-1/25). It's easy to work, cheap, and looks great when you master it. It also glues easily, and difficult joints may be drilled and pinned for extra strength.

I scratch-built much of this cage from styrene rod...

[CountryJoe]

Thanks Ace: I got so wrapped up in the idea that I didn't even consider the fact that I'd have to bend the material. But, after thinking about it now I can certainly see your point - so, Styrene Rod it is!

[Art Anderson]

Of course, one can always use K&S brass rod stock--that bends without collapsing as tubing is prone to do.  Low temperature silver solder does a great job with brass as well.

 

Art

[CountryJoe]

I have access to a lot of smaller dia. rods and tubes through the company I work for... what is the absolute correct size that a roll-cage should be made with for 1/24 scale?

[Art Anderson]

I have access to a lot of smaller dia. rods and tubes through the company I work for... what is the absolute correct size that a roll-cage should be made with for 1/24 scale?

You can use one of two measurement systems, Michael:  In metric, 1mm is so very close to an inch in 1/25 that any discrepancy won't be noticeable with small diameter rod or tubing.  Or, in English measure, .040" is exactly one scale inch in 1/25.  K&S has started marketing brass rod & tubing in metric diameters, but I suspect their English measure rod stock is still out there.  For starters, think of 1/8" as being quite close to 3" in 1/25 scale, being barely a sheet of copier paper thicker; 3/32" stock being close enough to 2" and so on.

Art

[Ace-Garageguy]

I have access to a lot of smaller dia. rods and tubes through the company I work for... what is the absolute correct size that a roll-cage should be made with for 1/24 scale?

It depends on what you're building.

As of 2009 (I haven't been involved in competition lately):

SCCA required minimum mild-steel tubing diameter of 1.5" for cars up to 2500 pounds, and 1.5"-1.75" tubing (heavier wall) for cars over 2500 pounds.

NHRA required 1.625" mild-steel minimum diameter.

Use Art's close equivalent of 1mm = 1" in 1/25 scale. 

So...in 1/25, a 1.5" roll-cage tube would be about 1.5mm. In 1/24, just a little bigger. Etc., etc.,etc.

Basically, if you have 1.75mm rod, it ought to look right in either scale. Sanctioning bodies allow larger diameter tubing.

Edited August 24, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[CountryJoe]

Gentlemen,

  Thank you both for all the information. 1mm is something I can get an abundance of at the drop of a hat... brass/copper, rods/tubes and generally 16' in length. So, I'm pretty sure I got that end of it covered.

  What I have access to starts at .10mm up to 3.0mm usually in either brass or copper... if there is anything I can ever help you two gentlemen out with in regards to this material - just let me know.

  Thanks again for your help. 

Edited August 25, 2015 by CountryJoe

[BigTallDad]

Here's a relatively easy way to bend tubing.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/102629-bending-tubing/ 

 

[Art Anderson]

Gentlemen,

  Thank you both for all the information. 1mm is something I can get an abundance of at the drop of a hat... brass/copper, rods/tubes and generally 16' in length. So, I'm pretty sure I got that end of it covered.

  What I have access to starts at .10mm up to 3.0mm usually in either brass or copper... if there is anything I can ever help you two gentlemen out with in regards to this material - just let me know.

  Thanks again for your help. 

One more thing:  When I've soldered up brass for model work, I've settled on Stay-Bright Silver Solder, which is a low temperature silver solder, and comes with flux.  The advantages of silver solder are (1) it's far stronger than ordinary lead-tin solder, and (2) it takes more heat to melt a silver solder joint than it does to make it in the first place, making assembly a whole lot easier.    Also, be looking for a set of miniature needle files (3-4 inches long), as the round or "rat tail" files in those sets are perfect for "fishmouthing" the ends of pieces of rod or tubing that one is going to join in a "tee joint".  Also, those needle files are great for smoothing solder joints as well.

Art

[CountryJoe]

Art,

   My head is now swimming with ideas... is there no limit to what else can be done once the roll-cage is finished? Brake lines - Fuel lines - I think I'm gonna have to start making a list.