Hartness53 Posted March 30, 2008 Posted March 30, 2008 I am wondering what is the method of choice when cutting a model car body. I am going to chop the top of one of my projects and need a clean non-meltod cut. Thanks Christian
randx0 Posted March 30, 2008 Posted March 30, 2008 what kind of body are you chopping?for cutting purposes I use the back of a #11 xacto blade,a jewelers saw ,hobby saw,dremel moto tool or whatever tool is best suited for the job.the most important thing to remember is take your time and work slowly. also I'm sure there is link somewhere in this forum explaining top chops. hope this helps good luck
ramonesblues Posted March 31, 2008 Posted March 31, 2008 i use a jewelers saw for chops, sectioning, and lots of other cuts. A great all around tool.
Darrell Gwinn Posted March 31, 2008 Posted March 31, 2008 I wish I knew the proper way cause so far my tool of choice so far has been scissors...haha scary huh? but is mainly been on the 20's and 30's fords, mostly flat thin surfaces..
MikeMc Posted March 31, 2008 Posted March 31, 2008 (edited) I start with a sharpie.....before any cutting starts you have to have a plan.....chop and drop....like on a '34 this is Kennys this was done with tape and a razor saw.....straight cut then drop and glue! Sometimes you have to cut 2 or 3 times and add filler to make things line up...like on this '55 you can see the dif. Edited March 31, 2008 by MikeMc
Clay Posted March 31, 2008 Posted March 31, 2008 OK how would you cut the glass to fit after you chop it?
MikeMc Posted April 1, 2008 Posted April 1, 2008 acetate....comes in sheets....to cut a windshield is a major job for most chops!!
Harry P. Posted April 2, 2008 Posted April 2, 2008 OK how would you cut the glass to fit after you chop it? It all depends on the specific model you're working on. Many times the kit glass can simply be trimmed, either along the top or bottom edges, and it'll fit the new, shorter openings just fine. Other times the old glass won't work anymore, because the chop has altered the shape of the window openings too much. In that case, you can make new "glass" out of acetate sheet. Each time you chop a top it's a "case-by-case" basis as far as how best to get the windows to fit.
Harry P. Posted April 2, 2008 Posted April 2, 2008 One more thing to remember: Most cars have slanted roof pillars. Therefore, if you cut a section out, the top panel will be too narrow or too short (or both) to fit on the new lower posts. In that case you have to cut the roof panel in half lengthwise and widthwise, and add styrene sheet filler strips, in order to enlarge the top enough so that the cut pillars match up again. BEFORE: AFTER (with filler strips added):
sdrodder Posted April 4, 2008 Posted April 4, 2008 well since we are already talking about chopping where would you make the cuts on a 41 chevy truck? I might start one next
MikeMc Posted April 4, 2008 Posted April 4, 2008 well since we are already talking about chopping where would you make the cuts on a 41 chevy truck? I might start one next The A pillars........
sdrodder Posted April 5, 2008 Posted April 5, 2008 hahahaha I maen do i have to make some special cuts over the roof and others? I dont want to thrash the cab because i screw up.
MikeMc Posted April 5, 2008 Posted April 5, 2008 hahahaha I maen do i have to make some special cuts over the roof and others? I dont want to thrash the cab because i screw up. You just have to risk it once in a while. I learned this on a forum from a seasoned modeler that "its just 10 or 15 bucks if ya screw it up!!!" So with that in mind look at Harrys photos and then your cab....from straight over it you will see what will be cut....and if you screw it up You can always call it a roadster !!! So in the words of Raul .......Grab that Zona and start choppin!!!!!
sdrodder Posted April 9, 2008 Posted April 9, 2008 thanks for the info. I have done the call it a roadster think more than once.
evilone Posted April 9, 2008 Posted April 9, 2008 heres what i do 1st:i get a piece of card board to block off the roof 2nd:i see what looks better by sliding the card up odr down 3rd:after i decide what i like i mark it with a sharpie 4th:i cut along the lines with a dremel 5th:glue it back together 6th:fill and sand and last i paint it hope it helps bro
VW Dave Posted April 9, 2008 Posted April 9, 2008 As stated in an earlier reply, the method varies with the individual subject; many roofs are narrower at the top, and a little stretching & gap filling needs to be done - thanks for the 'before & after' deuce pics, Harry - but some early cars lend themselves well to a straightforward chop. I took about 6 scale inches out of an old Monogram model A coupe, using pinstripe tape to mark my lines and cutting with a thin cutoff wheel in my trusty Dremel. To ensure easy-to-fill joints I sanded the cut surfaces on a sheet of sandpaper placed face-up on a flat surface(my garage countertop). Here is the body with the newly-cut top just sitting on it; no glue had been added at this point: After a little glue, bodywork and mild weathering:
mikelo Posted April 10, 2008 Posted April 10, 2008 While different style cars require different ways to to it, to get an even cut, what I do is this: I put the cutting wheel adapter in my dremel. A package of cutting stones came with my dremel that remove almost exactly 1mm each. If I want to do a 4" chop (or body section for that matter.), I stack 4 disks on top of each other. This way you mke one cut and remove all the material at once and makes for less filling when you are done.
MR BIGGS Posted May 6, 2008 Posted May 6, 2008 (edited) While different style cars require different ways to to it, to get an even cut, what I do is this: I put the cutting wheel adapter in my dremel. A package of cutting stones came with my dremel that remove almost exactly 1mm each. If I want to do a 4" chop (or body section for that matter.), I stack 4 disks on top of each other. This way you mke one cut and remove all the material at once and makes for less filling when you are done. X-2.... That's what I do. It's 1 cut and done. This way you know you got the same cut on both part's, and the body line's up to a ( T ) Here is a little something I chopped the other day. With the stone method this only took under 5 min to get to this point. Edited May 6, 2008 by MR BIGGS
MikeMc Posted May 6, 2008 Posted May 6, 2008 X-2.... That's what I do. It's 1 cut and done. This way you know you got the same cut on both part's, and the body line's up to a ( T ) Here is a little something I chopped the other day. With the stone method this only took under 5 min to get to this point. Do you get crisp corners this way??? I never seem to get them with the cutoff discs by dremel.
MR BIGGS Posted May 6, 2008 Posted May 6, 2008 (edited) Do you get crisp corners this way??? I never seem to get them with the cutoff discs by dremel. Yes they come out nice. What I do is hold the dermel in one hand and place my hand on the table at an angle. Then I just move the body witch is in the other hand also on the table, I use the table as a slider this way there aint any shaking or slip up's. You also have to take the speed of the blade in to consideration you don’t want it too fast cause it will just start sticking, melting and make the body move all over the place. It has to be a nice speed where it's cutting without melting the plastic. Edited May 6, 2008 by MR BIGGS
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