Plastic Solvent Cement_Plastruct Weld And Other Solvent Type Cements

[69NovaYenko]

Is Plastruct Inc - Plastic Weld Plastic Solvent Cement still available. My LHS no longer stocks it. And, I`m haveing a challenging time finding it on-line.

And, since I`m on the topic how do the others similar plastic cement acetone (CH3)2CO content solvents (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Tenax-7R, Ambroid Pro-Weld, Micro-Mark Same Stuff etc.) stack up as far as bonding power and bonding time.

A friend loves the thin brush applicator that comes with the Tamiya Extra Thin cement; he says its like a "mini paint brush", unlike the much larger bristle brush that comes with the others solvent type cements.

 

 

Edited February 3, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[STYRENE-SURFER]

Tamiya extra thin cement is what I use, the applicator brush is nice and the bottle is less prone to tip over.

 

[vintagerpm]

Yes, it is still available. Amazon.com & Hobbylink.com (among others) still sell it.

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

Here's a thread from October that addressed solvent-type plastic cements and more cost-effective bulk substitutes in some detail...

[SfanGoch]

Weld-On 3 is excellent. It's mostly Methylene Chloride, water-thin and a 4oz. can will set you back about ten bucks. It's the same stuff as Tenax 7, Ambroid Pro Weld, Tamiya Thin/Extra Thin, etc. but a lot less expensive. Any decent hardware store carries it.

[aurfalien]

Weld-On 3 is excellent. It's mostly Methylene Chloride, water-thin and a 4oz. can will set you back about ten bucks. It's the same stuff as Tenax 7, Ambroid Pro Weld, Tamiya Thin/Extra Thin, etc. but a lot less expensive. Any decent hardware store carries it.

That is a good price.  My LHS carries the Tamiya thin for $6 but that's 40ml (~1.4oz).  So for a bit more the 2x the $ is less.

Edited February 3, 2016 by aurfalien

[Ace-Garageguy]

Weld-On 3 is excellent stuff, also because it will work on butyrate plastic, which some Plastruct parts are made of. Some of the other common liquid "cements" won't stick it very well, if at all.

If you can't find it at a hardware store, any shop that fabricates plastic signs will have it, as it's pretty much the industry standard.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Here's an older thread with additional information:    http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/16547-liquid-glues/

[SfanGoch]

Weld-On 3 is excellent stuff, also because it will work on butyrate plastic, which some Plastruct parts are made of. Some of the other common liquid "cements" won't stick it very well, if at all.

If you can't find it at a hardware store, any shop that fabricates plastic signs will have it, as it's pretty much the industry standard.

Bingo! That's exactly what I do. There are a bunch of industrial plastic suppliers on Canal St., in Manhattan. Plastic sheets, shapes and solvents all in one location.

[Dave Van]

Is Ambroid Pro-Weld still in production??? I am running low and can't find any. thx

[Snake45]

Is Ambroid Pro-Weld still in production??? I am running low and can't find any. thx

I've been getting mine at a local model railroad shop. Been about a year since I got some, but I assume it's still being made.

[935k3]

Is Ambroid Pro-Weld still in production??? I am running low and can't find any. thx

None of the hobby shops in my area can get it anymore. I have been using Plastruct Bondene and works about the same. I pour it in an old Tamiya Extra Thin Cement because of the great small brush. Tamiya's glue is good but takes a little longer to dry which is a good thing sometimes.

 

 

Edited February 3, 2016 by 935k3

[drsnapper55]

Yeah, I agree that the Tamiya brush size is ideal, but the other solvents you mention do set quicker.  I like the Tenax for the quickest set.  I also like to use the Ambroid Safe Weld which you may be able to still get here and there - it's non-toxic, and I like the slower set time.  To me, the Ambroid Safe Weld is not as 'gooey' as the Tamiya glue and hardens up quicker.

[Dave Van]

None of the hobby shops in my area can get it anymore. I have been using Plastruct Bondene and works about the same. I pour it in an old Tamiya Extra Thin Cement because of the great small brush. Tamiya's glue is good but takes a little longer to dry which is a good thing sometimes.

 

 

 

I really like the Pro-Weld.....the Plastruct really irritates my nose for some reason. thx 

[peteski]

Pro-Weld is similar to Tenax, which is mostly Methylene Chloride (same stuff as the much cheaper Weld-On 3 mentioned earlier).

They all have that same sweet smell which will eventually kill us all.

Edited February 3, 2016 by peteski

[fseva]

Is Plastruct Inc - Plastic Weld Plastic Solvent Cement still available. My LHS no longer stocks it. And, I`m haveing a challenging time finding it on-line.

And, since I`m on the topic how do the others similar plastic cement acetone (CH3)2CO content solvents (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Tenax-7R, Ambroid Pro-Weld, Micro-Mark Same Stuff etc.) stack up as far as bonding power and bonding time.

A friend loves the thin brush applicator that comes with the Tamiya Extra Thin cement; he says its like a "mini paint brush", unlike the much larger bristle brush that comes with the others solvent type cements.

I have found Tenax the very best of the hobby solvents. The mfr just recently brought the product back out of "retirement".

Another great deal is Weld-On 3 which is available in 4oz cans on Amazon. I personally think it works faster than Tenax, and it has become my go-to solvent. However, the metal can it comes in can be a hassle. So, I invested in a metal funnel so that I can pour from the can into the smaller glass bottles I saved... and I also have a brush in one that makes applying WO3 an easy process. (It's one of the larger bristle brushes).

[69NovaYenko]

Pro-Weld is similar to Tenax, which is mostly Methylene Chloride (same stuff as the much cheaper Weld-On 3 mentioned earlier).

Tamiya's glue is good but takes a little longer to dry which is a good thing sometimes.

 

What is the working time (if any) with these products...quite often you need some to to adjust or square up parts before the solvents sets.

Edited February 3, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[fseva]

What is the working time (if any) with these products...quite often you need some to to adjust or square up parts before the solvents sets.

I just put some wheels/backers together - they're the type that have alignment holes which are then matched to "dimples" on the backer. This alignment process can take a couple seconds, but Weld-On 3 allowed that, and after a few seconds more, they were ready to be inserted into the tires.

Edited February 3, 2016 by fseva

[69NovaYenko]

I working on a Moper wing car. The two vertical uprights and the horizontal bar have to be aligned and square up before the solvent sets and I only have tow hands..I need a window of time to get it all looking correct by for the solvent sets.

[Snake45]

What is the working time (if any) with these products...quite often you need some to to adjust or square up parts before the solvents sets.

The methylene chloride products have almost no working time--they evaporate immediately. They're best for when you can flow the stuff into a butt-joint or "crack."

The MEK based products have a little more working time--at least several seconds, maybe up to a minute or so. If you have to put the cement on two parts and then bring the parts together, use an MEK  product.

[Pete J.]

Weld-On 3 is excellent. It's mostly Methylene Chloride, water-thin and a 4oz. can will set you back about ten bucks. It's the same stuff as Tenax 7, Ambroid Pro Weld, Tamiya Thin/Extra Thin, etc. but a lot less expensive. Any decent hardware store carries it.

I use both Weld-on 3 and 4.  Different speeds of curing.  4 oz tins of the stuff are handy and if this is the first time you have used them, this is a good size for your first purchase.  After that I buy the quart size which runs me $15 Which is much less expensive than the ones packaged for model building.  I just picked them up the other day and keep my 4 oz. bottles topped up.  They evaporate very quickly, so keep the lid on the jar.  A 4 oz. tin will evaporate over night. 

[69NovaYenko]

I use both Weld-on 3 and 4.  Different speeds of curing.

Different speeds of curing time you say...tell me more. Which is the slowest which is the fastest.

[misterNNL]

Does an accelerator or kicker product work with any of these?

[Snake45]

Does an accelerator or kicker product work with any of these?

No. And you wouldn't WANT such a thing.

[Pete J.]

I use both Weld-on 3 and 4.  Different speeds of curing.  4 oz tins of the stuff are handy and if this is the first time you have used them, this is a good size for your first purchase.  After that I buy the quart size which runs me $15 Which is much less expensive than the ones packaged for model building.  I just picked them up the other day and keep my 4 oz. bottles topped up.  They evaporate very quickly, so keep the lid on the jar.  A 4 oz. tin will evaporate over night. 

3 is the faster setting.  I use them based on the size of the piece I am joining and the longer it takes the solvent the dissipate the more plastic it melt and deforms the piece.  Quick set is best on smaller pieces.  Larger pieces that may have a support function, like landing gear on an aircraft, I use the slower set to make sure I get a complete bond. They still both set very quickly and are very thin.  They will flow into a seam very well and make a fine bond.  If you don't want a lot of ooze then use 3.