To clear or not to clear over BMF???

[crowe-t]

What are the advantages/disadvantages of spraying the final clear coat(lacquer) over Bare Metal Foil?

Is Bare Metal Foil durable enough on it's own?  

 

[Tommy Isbister]

In my experience clearing over BMF makes the edges look cleaner where it transitions from foil to paint. The biggest plus is the clear will protect the BMF when handling the model or dusting it off.

[aurfalien]

Well I've done it and it defeats the purpose in that it dulls the shine a bit.  That is depending on how much you've buffed it out.

But then again I'm on my 5th build and don't have much experience in general.

 

[Exotics_Builder]

In my experience clearing over BMF makes the edges look cleaner where it transitions from foil to paint. The biggest plus is the clear will protect the BMF when handling the model or dusting it off.

You buff first and then clear.  BMF seems to oxidize or some other reaction if not cleared and you will always get some crud when you clean the model.  It also does hide the transition and reduces the graininess from the adhesive.

Well I've done it and it defeats the purpose in that it dulls the shine a bit.  That is depending on how much you've buffed it out.

But then again I'm on my 5th build and don't have much experience in general.

 

To my eye, BMF is a little too shiny for trim but the clear coat does reduce the shine a tad.

[aurfalien]

You buff first and then clear.  BMF seems to oxidize or some other reaction if not cleared and you will always get some crud when you clean the model.  It also does hide the transition and reduces the graininess from the adhesive.

To my eye, BMF is a little too shiny for trim but the clear coat does reduce the shine a tad.

Oh, sorry, got confused.  I meant Matalizer and not BMF.  Sorry again, I dunno why I thought the OP meant Metalizer other then I was working with it last night.  Metalizer on the brain I suppose.

Edited February 4, 2016 by aurfalien

[StevenGuthmiller]

You've already heard my opinion Mike.

I've tried it both ways & I prefer not to clear over it.

I've not seen much of a tendency for the bare foil to oxidize & I've never had any problems with it coming off over time.

I have several kits that were foiled possibly 20 years ago that show no signs of aging of any kind.

There are only a couple of reasons why I don't do it.

One is because of dulling the shine.

The other is the fact that the clear coat does not stick to it very well & I noticed flakes of clear coming off of the foil during the polishing process.

So I thought, what's the point?

I just as well go back to doing it after clear.

 

Steve

 

[Tom Geiger]

Never!  I have models with BMF that are over 20 years old and it hasn't deteriorated or pulled up at all.   Look at real cars and you will see that there are variations in tones of 'shine'.  Paint shines at one level, chrome and aluminum trim at others.   Sealing BMF under paint just makes everything blend together in a toy-like way.  Paint, clear (if you must) and then BMF.

[High octane]

I did my first BMF job in the early 80's and it still looks good today on this El Camino..................................

[crowe-t]

You've already heard my opinion Mike.

I've tried it both ways & I prefer not to clear over it.

I've not seen much of a tendency for the bare foil to oxidize & I've never had any problems with it coming off over time.

I have several kits that were foiled possibly 20 years ago that show no signs of aging of any kind.

There are only a couple of reasons why I don't do it.

One is because of dulling the shine.

The other is the fact that the clear coat does not stick to it very well & I noticed flakes of clear coming off of the foil during the polishing process.

So I thought, what's the point?

I just as well go back to doing it after clear.

 

Steve

 

Steve,  

I've been tossing the idea around regarding spraying the clear over the BMF but will most likely clear first then apply the BMF.  

I never heard of it oxidizing and was only thinking the clear would protect it.  I hadn't thought the clear coat might not stick to it too well.  

Giving some of the problems I've encountered with painting so far I think I'll play it safe and apply the Bare metal Foil after the clear is sprayed.

Mike.

[Harry P.]

Never!  I have models with BMF that are over 20 years old and it hasn't deteriorated or pulled up at all.   Look at real cars and you will see that there are variations in tones of 'shine'. Paint shines at one level, chrome and aluminum trim at others. Sealing BMF under paint just makes everything blend together in a toy-like way.  Paint, clear (if you must) and then BMF.

Ditto. I have models 30+ years old and the foil has never come off, and after all those years most likely never will. "Sealing" the foil under clear is completely unnecessary.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Steve,  

I've been tossing the idea around regarding spraying the clear over the BMF but will most likely clear first then apply the BMF.  

I never heard of it oxidizing and was only thinking the clear would protect it.  I hadn't thought the clear coat might not stick to it too well.  

Giving some of the problems I've encountered with painting so far I think I'll play it safe and apply the Bare metal Foil after the clear is sprayed.

Mike.

Well, if you think about it, that's one of the traits of BMF that I love.

Paint not sticking to it very well is what makes it so easy to detail paint crests & badges.

after the paint is applied, you can simple lightly scrape it off of the areas you want the chrome to show through.

That's how the Ford hood crest was done on my '62 Sunliner.

 

Steve

 

[crowe-t]

Well, if you think about it, that's one of the traits of BMF that I love.

Paint not sticking to it very well is what makes it so easy to detail paint crests & badges.

after the paint is applied, you can simple lightly scrape it off of the areas you want the chrome to show through.

That's how the Ford hood crest was done on my '62 Sunliner.

 

Steve

 

Beautiful!

[slusher]

I have never cleared BMF. Tom also has a good point everything on a car shines at different levels. 

[Art Anderson]

What are the advantages/disadvantages of spraying the final clear coat(lacquer) over Bare Metal Foil?

Is Bare Metal Foil durable enough on it's own?  

 

In now nearly 45 yrs of using BMF on model cars (yes, the product's been around since 1971 or so!), I have never put a clear coat over the foil, which I have used on factory stock model cars, models of Indy cars (of which I built nearly 100 over about 15 yrs or so) and even used BMF to replicate factory-new aircraft in natural metal finishes.  And, I have never experienced any wear and tear with the foil, save for a couple of display resin cars that got a LOT of handling over the years, and even that was easily repaired.

[crowe-t]

I'm definitely not putting any clear coat over the BMF.  This is my first time using it so I wanted to know what was the best method.

I have Bare Metal Foil I picked up a couple of years ago.  I have it stored in the refrigerator since I read that was good for preserving the adhesive.

The question I have is:

How sticky or rather how durable should the BMF be when it's applied?

Should it be nearly impossible to remove?  

Or as long as it sticks it's OK?

I'm hoping to be able to use what I already have.  I applied some on an interior part and it seems OK although I had to re do a part that didn't stick as well.  I touched the adhesive side too long on that piece and some of the adhesion went away.  The rest of the pieces seemed to stick very well.

Edited February 7, 2016 by crowe-t

[StevenGuthmiller]

I'm definitely not putting any clear coat over the BMF.  This is my first time using it so I wanted to know what was the best method.

I have Bare Metal Foil I picked up a couple of years ago.  I have it stored in the refrigerator since I read that was good for preserving the adhesive.

The question I have is:

How sticky or rather how durable should the BMF be when it's applied?

Should it be nearly impossible to remove?  

Or as long as it sticks it's OK?

I'm hoping to be able to use what I already have.  I applied some on an interior part and it seems OK although I had to re do a part that didn't stick as well.  I touched the adhesive side too long on that piece and some of the adhesion went away.  The rest of the pieces seemed to stick very well.

If your foil is fresh & the surface that you're applying it to is smooth & glossy, the foil should be very difficult to remove in one piece.

I burnish my foil down very well.

That not only makes the foil very shiney, it also makes it stick well.

 

Steve