Polishing ScaleFinishes 2k Clear?

[lghtngyello03]

Hey guys, I couldn't really find what I was looking for when I searched for this. I'm a first time ScaleFinishes user, and their paint/clear is awesome! I sprayed my first body without an issue. My 2k clear has leveled out every nicely, but still needs very minimal polishing.

 

My question for you ScaleFinishes users is, what compounds/polishes seem to work the best with the 2k clear? Do you recommend wet sanding with 2000 grit and finer, then using something like Meguiar's Scratch X and a Carnuba? My orange peel is very minimal, and with TS clear I never had to wet sand. I know that Tamiya compounds/polishes work awesome with the TS-13 combo however.

 

Also can someone point me in the direction of where to find a polishing wheel such as the one in this video to use with my dremel.....

Any tips are appreciated, and here is a pic of the freshly painted/cleared MK4 Supra.

Edited March 15, 2016 by lghtngyello03

[Crazy Ed]

Scott, the first person I'd ask would be Jameston at Scale Finishes as I'd bet he has the most experience and feedback on the subject.

[lghtngyello03]

Thanks Ed, I shot him an email before I posted this thread up. May be a while before I hear from him. I'm trying to catch this on the 72 hr window to polish as the clear will probably be a pain to polish after that mark due to hardening even more.

[Crazy Ed]

   

Thanks Ed, I shot him an email before I posted this thread up. May be a while before I hear from him. I'm trying to catch this on the 72 hr window to polish as the clear will probably be a pain to polish after that mark due to hardening even more.

   Huh? I always let paint cure prior to polishing. The longer the better. I'd never heard of a 72 hour window. Learn something new everyday.

[lghtngyello03]

   

   Huh? I always let paint cure prior to polishing. The longer the better. I'd never heard of a 72 hour window. Learn something new everyday.

I let my Tamiya stuff sit for a week before handling...this is a lot different I guess? This is straight from Scalefinishes website, scroll all the way to the bottom for the clearcoat application guides.

"2013 CLEARCOAT
Scalefinishes clearcoat is an automotive grade high gloss Acrylic enamel.
If further thinning is required, Thin with Scalefinishes Enamel reducer.
Air pressures will vary with different airbrushes, painting styles and temperature. I recommend around 20PSI as a starting point.

APPLICATION
1. Apply in a continuous medium coat, until the paint has built up enough to be glossy (3-4 layers).

2. Can be handled safely after 24 hours.

BUFFING
If necessary, wet sand with 1500 or finer grit paper after 24 hours and polish. Buff with the appropriate compound after 48 hours. Buffing is easiest when done within the first 72 hours following application."

[Crazy Ed]

   Thanks Scott. Guess I ought to read Jamestons suggestions Huh! I've never gotten past the catalog and Phone # for Ordering.

[lghtngyello03]

Well, here are my results from using 2000 grit, and Meguiar's Scratch X coupled with a polishing cloth on my Dremel. Still have to use Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and a Glaze from Adam's Polishes. This ONLY has Scratch X applied, and the shine is awesome!

 

Edited March 16, 2016 by lghtngyello03

[Crazy Ed]

Well Scott, I'd have to say the Meguiar's and Scale Finishes is a winning Combo. I'll be interested in the next Stages to see how they improve on the Shine!

[martinfan5]

I let my Tamiya stuff sit for a week before handling...this is a lot different I guess? This is straight from Scalefinishes website, scroll all the way to the bottom for the clearcoat application guides.

"2013 CLEARCOAT
Scalefinishes clearcoat is an automotive grade high gloss Acrylic enamel.
If further thinning is required, Thin with Scalefinishes Enamel reducer.
Air pressures will vary with different airbrushes, painting styles and temperature. I recommend around 20PSI as a starting point.

APPLICATION
1. Apply in a continuous medium coat, until the paint has built up enough to be glossy (3-4 layers).

2. Can be handled safely after 24 hours.

BUFFING
If necessary, wet sand with 1500 or finer grit paper after 24 hours and polish. Buff with the appropriate compound after 48 hours. Buffing is easiest when done within the first 72 hours following application."

You do understand that is not for the 2k clear, that is for the one part clear right?

I was one of the test group that tested the 2k clear before he started selling it,  If I remember correctly, I was able to wet sand within in 24 hours.   While for the most part, I didnt have to wet sand and polish, there were a few area's that needed , and I normally start with 3200 , but with the 2k clear being little bit more thicker, I had to start with 2000. 

 

Edited March 18, 2016 by martinfan5

[lghtngyello03]

You do understand that is not for the 2k clear, that is for the one part clear right?

I was one of the test group that tested the 2k clear before he started selling it,  If I remember correctly, I was able to wet sand within in 24 hours.   While for the most part, I didnt have to wet sand and polish, there were a few area's that needed , and I normally start with 3200 , but with the 2k clear being little bit more thicker, I had to start with 2000. 

 

Didn't know that...but, seeing how I got awesome results in waiting 2 days after shooting the clear I'll stick to that method from now on.

I didn't really have to as it was really smooth, but some areas had some orange peel, so I went ahead and sanded the whole body with 2000 grit and polished it accordingly.

[martinfan5]

Didn't know that...but, seeing how I got awesome results in waiting 2 days after shooting the clear I'll stick to that method from now on.

I didn't really have to as it was really smooth, but some areas had some orange peel, so I went ahead and sanded the whole body with 2000 grit and polished it accordingly.

I was meaning that method could not be applied towards to the 2k clear, just it was for the regular clear