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Posted

i hope i`m not the only one with this problem  but that stupid silver paint  just dosen`t  adhere  to the model like the other colors        is there a trick  it makes me wanna  paint  [ like the tranny  ]  different colors  - 

Posted

not sure which paint you are using, but just follow the basics:

1. Wash the parts you are going to paint with warm soapy water to remove any mold residue.

2. Prime the parts lightly and let them dry for a day.

Typically any parts I paint silver I try to do last as they tend to be more likely to be sensitive to smudging from the oil on my fingers. You might want to experiment with different paints (brush/spray and acrylic/enamel/lacquer) to see what works best for you!

Posted

I have the same problem. It's with silver, yellow, and white. I chalk it up to my impatience why I have the problem. Gotta see color, NOW. Guess that's why my black paint jobs come out the best.

Posted

One thing that may help when painting any mettalic is to paint the area with black first and then do the metallic.  I either brush paint of spray the area with flat black and then paint the mettalic.

Posted

If you're using Testors silver, gold or copper enamel spray paint, there is no fix.

I've had these same problems over the years with these three paints.

There is nothing you can do to make them stick better.

 

Steve

Posted

If you're using Testors silver, gold or copper enamel spray paint, there is no fix.

I've had these same problems over the years with these three paints.

There is nothing you can do to make them stick better.

 

Steve

I've also had the same problem with those three colors too.

Posted

yea it`s testors  paint  so i`ll try to get some thing different   - thanks

At the risk of being redundant : I recommend Tamiya or even Gunze . I use Tamiya almost exclusively ; Gunze to a lesser extent (love their Burnt Iron for exhaust manifolds !) . I'll only use enamel or Testors for certain colours (mainly their Car Colors sprays ; the Hemi Orange is nice)  , or for the aerosol clear (the enamel clear lays-down nicely over Tamiya aerosol) .

But , I digress ... Go with Tamiya's Silver Leaf (or what-ever its brush-on equal's name is) , and never look back .

Posted

If you're using Testors silver, gold or copper enamel spray paint, there is no fix.

I've had these same problems over the years with these three paints.

There is nothing you can do to make them stick better.

 

Steve

I have some models in my collection which are over 50 years old, and the silver paint on them still isn't "dry"!

Posted

I have never once sprayed Testors silver of gold and not have it look blotchy or stringy looking.

I quit using it for a topcoat on large areas several back. Now its used as an undercoat only. 

Posted

If you can airbrush Alclad had thre aluminums that stick and do not rub off with handling. Aluminum, White aluminum(close Tamiya TS-30), Dark Aluminum and Duraluminum.

Posted

If you can airbrush Alclad had thre aluminums that stick and do not rub off with handling. Aluminum, White aluminum(close Tamiya TS-30), Dark Aluminum and Duraluminum.

Alclad will rub off too with too much handling.

When I spray a transmission that's attached to the block with Alclad, I wrap some blue painters tape around the tranny until final assembly is finished.

That way the oils from your fingers won't wear off the Alclad.

 

Steve

Posted

I have some models in my collection which are over 50 years old, and the silver paint on them still isn't "dry"!

Me too. But they seem to have changed the formulation a few years ago. I haven't had that problem in a decade or more now. But then I mainly use it for small body emblems and chrome sprue-point touchup.

For much of my silver now, I use a silver Sharpie, which is fabulous for things it works for.

I've also had great results by cutting Testor Silver with lacquer thinner, airbrushing it on windshield and backlight trim, then masking that off with liquid mask and proceeding with the rest of the paint job. It's a lot of work so I only do it for "special" builds. But it looks great.

Posted

What about the silver acrylic paint?  It should dry a lot faster/harder than the brushed enamels.  I've had a lot of luck with those.

I agree.

Sometimes acrylics can work very nicely versus enamels.

I use a few Testors acrylics.

The only problem I seem to have with the ones I've used is coverage.

 

Steve

Posted

I agree.

Sometimes acrylics can work very nicely versus enamels.

I use a few Testors acrylics.

The only problem I seem to have with the ones I've used is coverage.

 

Steve

That's true on some accounts.  They do not stick to gloss paints well.  I think the next time I do any trim, I'm going to rough the surface just a bit.

Posted

Interesting. The only acrylic I've used is black to detail grilles because I can thin it with water to make it flow out and not damage chrome.

Might have to look into using outer colors.

Posted

Interesting. The only acrylic I've used is black to detail grilles because I can thin it with water to make it flow out and not damage chrome.

Might have to look into using outer colors.

The one's I'm referring to are the Acryl line of acrylic enamels by Testors.  Tamiya has acryilc enamel paints as well.  They can be cleaned up with water and tend to dry better than the solvent enamels do.  You can use the craft acrylics, but I don't think I would use them for any silver trim, they don't stick well to glossy finishes.  They're awesome for interior colors and detail painting.  You might also look into Games Workshop/Citadel Miniatures paints.  

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