bubbaman Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 i hope i`m not the only one with this problem but that stupid silver paint just dosen`t adhere to the model like the other colors is there a trick it makes me wanna paint [ like the tranny ] different colors -
mikemodeler Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 not sure which paint you are using, but just follow the basics:1. Wash the parts you are going to paint with warm soapy water to remove any mold residue.2. Prime the parts lightly and let them dry for a day.Typically any parts I paint silver I try to do last as they tend to be more likely to be sensitive to smudging from the oil on my fingers. You might want to experiment with different paints (brush/spray and acrylic/enamel/lacquer) to see what works best for you!
Belugawrx Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 What brand and type of paint are you using?Are you washing the plastic first?Are you priming the plastic first ?
1972coronet Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 Enamel (oil-based) silver tends to "never" dry . I've had the best luck with Tamiya (acrylic) silver (and their metallic paints in general) .
Petetrucker07 Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 I have the same problem. It's with silver, yellow, and white. I chalk it up to my impatience why I have the problem. Gotta see color, NOW. Guess that's why my black paint jobs come out the best.
bobthehobbyguy Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 One thing that may help when painting any mettalic is to paint the area with black first and then do the metallic. I either brush paint of spray the area with flat black and then paint the mettalic.
Dragline Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 Bob is on point here. I always prime anything metallic with either semi or flat black. It always comes out excellent.
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 If you're using Testors silver, gold or copper enamel spray paint, there is no fix.I've had these same problems over the years with these three paints.There is nothing you can do to make them stick better. Steve
plastic trucker Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 If you're using Testors silver, gold or copper enamel spray paint, there is no fix.I've had these same problems over the years with these three paints.There is nothing you can do to make them stick better. SteveI've also had the same problem with those three colors too.
bubbaman Posted March 20, 2016 Author Posted March 20, 2016 yea it`s testors paint so i`ll try to get some thing different - thanks
1972coronet Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 yea it`s testors paint so i`ll try to get some thing different - thanksAt the risk of being redundant : I recommend Tamiya or even Gunze . I use Tamiya almost exclusively ; Gunze to a lesser extent (love their Burnt Iron for exhaust manifolds !) . I'll only use enamel or Testors for certain colours (mainly their Car Colors sprays ; the Hemi Orange is nice) , or for the aerosol clear (the enamel clear lays-down nicely over Tamiya aerosol) . But , I digress ... Go with Tamiya's Silver Leaf (or what-ever its brush-on equal's name is) , and never look back .
ToyLvr Posted March 20, 2016 Posted March 20, 2016 If you're using Testors silver, gold or copper enamel spray paint, there is no fix.I've had these same problems over the years with these three paints.There is nothing you can do to make them stick better. SteveI have some models in my collection which are over 50 years old, and the silver paint on them still isn't "dry"!
gtx6970 Posted March 21, 2016 Posted March 21, 2016 I have never once sprayed Testors silver of gold and not have it look blotchy or stringy looking.I quit using it for a topcoat on large areas several back. Now its used as an undercoat only.
935k3 Posted March 22, 2016 Posted March 22, 2016 If you can airbrush Alclad had thre aluminums that stick and do not rub off with handling. Aluminum, White aluminum(close Tamiya TS-30), Dark Aluminum and Duraluminum.
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 22, 2016 Posted March 22, 2016 If you can airbrush Alclad had thre aluminums that stick and do not rub off with handling. Aluminum, White aluminum(close Tamiya TS-30), Dark Aluminum and Duraluminum.Alclad will rub off too with too much handling.When I spray a transmission that's attached to the block with Alclad, I wrap some blue painters tape around the tranny until final assembly is finished.That way the oils from your fingers won't wear off the Alclad. Steve
Snake45 Posted March 22, 2016 Posted March 22, 2016 I have some models in my collection which are over 50 years old, and the silver paint on them still isn't "dry"!Me too. But they seem to have changed the formulation a few years ago. I haven't had that problem in a decade or more now. But then I mainly use it for small body emblems and chrome sprue-point touchup. For much of my silver now, I use a silver Sharpie, which is fabulous for things it works for. I've also had great results by cutting Testor Silver with lacquer thinner, airbrushing it on windshield and backlight trim, then masking that off with liquid mask and proceeding with the rest of the paint job. It's a lot of work so I only do it for "special" builds. But it looks great.
Deathgoblin Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 What about the silver acrylic paint? It should dry a lot faster/harder than the brushed enamels. I've had a lot of luck with those.
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 23, 2016 Posted March 23, 2016 What about the silver acrylic paint? It should dry a lot faster/harder than the brushed enamels. I've had a lot of luck with those.I agree.Sometimes acrylics can work very nicely versus enamels.I use a few Testors acrylics.The only problem I seem to have with the ones I've used is coverage. Steve
Deathgoblin Posted March 24, 2016 Posted March 24, 2016 I agree.Sometimes acrylics can work very nicely versus enamels.I use a few Testors acrylics.The only problem I seem to have with the ones I've used is coverage. SteveThat's true on some accounts. They do not stick to gloss paints well. I think the next time I do any trim, I'm going to rough the surface just a bit.
gtx6970 Posted March 24, 2016 Posted March 24, 2016 Interesting. The only acrylic I've used is black to detail grilles because I can thin it with water to make it flow out and not damage chrome.Might have to look into using outer colors.
Deathgoblin Posted March 25, 2016 Posted March 25, 2016 Interesting. The only acrylic I've used is black to detail grilles because I can thin it with water to make it flow out and not damage chrome.Might have to look into using outer colors.The one's I'm referring to are the Acryl line of acrylic enamels by Testors. Tamiya has acryilc enamel paints as well. They can be cleaned up with water and tend to dry better than the solvent enamels do. You can use the craft acrylics, but I don't think I would use them for any silver trim, they don't stick well to glossy finishes. They're awesome for interior colors and detail painting. You might also look into Games Workshop/Citadel Miniatures paints.
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