Frame jig

[drummerdad]

I have been working on building a few tube chassis for some kits. Im obsessed with outlaw/dragweek/street legal racing, and want to build a few tube chassis cars. I have always just kinda faked it, adding bars to the model kit, and making it look like a chassis, from a few feet. And sometimes, that works. Now I am trying to go full on, tube chassis. Only the body gets used. The really fast guys are running tube chassis. 

I have attempted a few, and learned a lot. I am lurking, and following some of the great ones here, and trying to learn all I can. My first few attempts were on graph paper, but they didnt work out so well. But I am learning. And one thing I have learned is; I need a frame jig. 

I looked at a few, and I want to make my own. I want it to work with everything from 1/24, to 1/8, so I am looking at a sheet of plate steel, .060x12x24 inches. And Ill use some of the magnets with plates on either side, so I can square things up. Maybe even get some actual squaring magnets like the ones they use for welding. 

So, let me see some of your frame jigs. I know some of you use wood, and thats cool. Im looking for ideas. Wood, steel, rubber...doesnt matter.

[Misha]

I usually begin by drafting out on quarter inch grid paper what I'm planning to do, using the appropriate scale. To begin construction I lay up the pieces and first use Tenax 7R, followed by CA once all is looking right. For more complex structures I will lay the paper on bulletin board material (or ceiling tile) and use pins to hold the plastic bits in place while I glue them. When using CA it is useful to lay the pieces on parchment paper to prevent the plastic becoming attached to the paper. Sorry I don't have a shot of the pins and bulletin board set up.

Hope this helps, I am planning on getting the steel plate and magnets to help construction and wheel alignment in the later stages.

Cheers Misha

 

[eferrari]

Dwayne,

            I read your post on a chassis jig. Because I work in brass, I use both a  SOLDERING BOARD CERAMIC HONEYCOMB with pins that you can find on eBay and my own similar to the Chassis shops made from 1/8" .125 Aluminum Sheet Plate 6" x 8" 6061 http://www.ebay.com/usr/metalremnantsinc 

            You surely can use a metal surface instead of aluminum. I have a jig that I lay over the surface to drill my holes.  I use aluminum with a Hakko soldering station on both surfaces with the pins and aluminum square cut-offs to hold things in place. As Misha stated always start laying it out on quadrille paper first.

             We all have are own way of doing things, but I hope this information I provided is helpful.

 

Best,

Ron

         

 

[drummerdad]

Thanks guys. I went out and bought some 16 gauge steel, 12 x 24 from lowes, and scribed it at 1/2" increments. Now I can use magnets to hold things straight, and square. Plus I can solder, and glue on it without worry. $20 for the metal, and a few packs of magnets. Ill need some different magnets along the way, but no big deal. Here are some pictures of a couple of kits I am working on.

First picture is the drag week mustang chassis, starting point. You can see the scoring on the metal, and the magnets. 

 

Here is the body on the chassis. Its in the beginning stages, obviously. 

Here is my current wip. Still early, but I have all the parts. Just need to get off the 12 hour shifts, and I can get back into it. 

Edited April 7, 2016 by drummerdad
Pictures

[MeatMan]

That's a sweet worktable Misha!  I'm planning my first tube chassis later this year so I'll keep my eye on you.