They shoot horses, don't they?

[STYRENE-SURFER]

BTW , I am still struggling with how this Privateer (ex-A/FX) might turn out as far as colors 

and basic livery are concerned. I'm thinking I have to hide some AMT sins with a black underbody.

That said I don't want to bury details in flat or semi gloss black. Oh the conundrums ?

I'm thinking that dark red Ford color for the body,  maybe even the frame, roll bar etc.

As far as interior goes gotta keep it a light enough color so it shows up visually rather than a

black hole. What do you think?

?

 

[STYRENE-SURFER]

Difficult to get this pic but an overall shot. Sun setting through my window makes it nearly impossible to get this ?

[alan barton]

Really enjoying your thoughtful, methodical work.  That front sub- structure is particularly impressive.  The stance looks spot on.

Cheers

Alan

[afx]

9 hours ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

BTW , I am still struggling with how this Privateer (ex-A/FX) might turn out as far as colors 

and basic livery are concerned. I'm thinking I have to hide some AMT sins with a black underbody.

That said I don't want to bury details in flat or semi gloss black. Oh the conundrums ?

I'm thinking that dark red Ford color for the body,  maybe even the frame, roll bar etc.

As far as interior goes gotta keep it a light enough color so it shows up visually rather than a

black hole. What do you think?

?

 

• I like dark red for the body
• maybe raw aluminum the interior panels
• suspension and body supports could be a mixture of metal finishes to offset them from the black underbody
• just some ideas, love the build

[STYRENE-SURFER]

19 hours ago, alan barton said:

Really enjoying your thoughtful, methodical work.  That front sub- structure is particularly impressive.  The stance looks spot on.

Cheers

Alan

Thanx Alan, It's been more than I originally planned on but fun. For some reason I keep engineering myself into a hole and then have to

figure a way to accomplish the end result. Ive got so many small parts built now and hoping I remember how they all go back

together and what order. LOL

13 hours ago, afx said:

• I like dark red for the body
• maybe raw aluminum the interior panels
• suspension and body supports could be a mixture of metal finishes to offset them from the black underbody
• just some ideas, love the build

Thanx JC, I was looking at the 1965 Ford "Ditzler" color chart, maybe "Rangoon Red". Not as dark as I remember, tho the "Vintage Burgundy"

is too dark for my liking.

Looking at the model, the interior (which was kinda the start of this build) is the part I am least happy with. Originally I was thinking Aluminum

but now maybe a darker color with contrasting details like roll cage, pedals, seat, etc. Something like a dark Gray.

Now I'm thinking about hood pins, If I do functional ones they have to be planned now before things are assembled.

I'm thinking if so I would have to most likely locate the pin mounts to the body/subframe and then drill up through the underside of the hood.

This is doable but fiddly as all get out. Another option is just put them on the surface of the hood (non functional) and call it good.

Something makes me think that the functional option would be prone to breaking and drive me crazy.

Edited August 5, 2020 by STYRENE-SURFER

[Snake45]

'65 Rangoon Red is, I believe, the same color as '66-'67 Candyapple Red. It's the color Eliminator II was. When I build my Eliminator II, I'm going to use Testor #4 Dark Red. 

As this is a heavily-modified race car, there's no reason to limit yourself to the factory color palette. Though if you want to, you can also use the '66 chart--there's nothing to distinguish this '65 Mustang body from a '66. It could be either. 

Testor/Model Master Stop Light Red is a nice red metallic that makes a great color coat. 

[iBorg]

Use something light so it will photograph well. What I've seen, there is no reason to try to hide anything.

 

[STYRENE-SURFER]

17 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

'65 Rangoon Red is, I believe, the same color as '66-'67 Candyapple Red. It's the color Eliminator II was. When I build my Eliminator II, I'm going to use Testor #4 Dark Red. 

As this is a heavily-modified race car, there's no reason to limit yourself to the factory color palette. Though if you want to, you can also use the '66 chart--there's nothing to distinguish this '65 Mustang body from a '66. It could be either. 

Testor/Model Master Stop Light Red is a nice red metallic that makes a great color coat. 

I just happen to have a bottle of that MM Stop Light Red. Never used it before, is the metallic fine grain?

how did it cover and how would you prime? Only got one bottle of the stuff.

[STYRENE-SURFER]

10 minutes ago, iBorg said:

Use something light so it will photograph well. What I've seen, there is no reason to try to hide anything.

 

Thanx Mike,

It's mostly the transition from the interior (tub) to the inside ceiling (color choice) for lack of better words.

I could paint that underside to match the interior but this is to be a gutted out steel body car so I'm not sure yet.?

 

[STYRENE-SURFER]

This is a nice looking interior, I believe "Gas Ronda's" ? This is sorta the look I'm after and it almost appears that the speckled 

paint (what do they call that again) goes up above the B pillar.

 

And here is a cool RED MUSTANG just because?

Thanx for the input.    Any thoughts on my hood pin question?

[Straightliner59]

4 hours ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

This is sorta the look I'm after and it almost appears that the speckled 

paint (what do they call that again) goes up above the B pillar.

Zolatone. Here's their color chart,! ?

[afx]

On the hood pins: I add the mounting pins (bits of wire) and the protection ring (PE) on the hood but don't bother with the locking pin. I like seeing the pins when the hood is removed.

You can use sewing needles for the mounting pins if you want to attempt to make them functional. 

Edited August 6, 2020 by afx

[Straightliner59]

3 hours ago, afx said:

On the hood pins: I add the mounting pins (bits of wire) and the protection ring (PE) on the hood but don't bother with the locking pin. I like seeing the pins when the hood is removed.

You can use sewing needles for the mounting pins if you want to attempt to make them functional. 

 

Agreed! I used sewing needles, for these hood pins. I punched aluminum discs, for the scratch plates. I didn't bother with the  clips, either.

[Snake45]

12 hours ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

And here is a cool RED MUSTANG just because?

Oh my that is a cool one! I hadn't seen it before. Rear wheel openings look kinda close to the AMT kit. Interesting that it seems to have Shelby roof windows and a Shelby grille, too. And American TTs and Enderle bug-catchers are ALWAYS cool! Daddy likes! 

14 hours ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

I just happen to have a bottle of that MM Stop Light Red. Never used it before, is the metallic fine grain?

how did it cover and how would you prime? Only got one bottle of the stuff.

The metallic is finer than a metalflake, but flakier than a factory metallic paint job. It would looks good as a "day two" paint job. Remember, you don't have to stay with factory colors for this build. 

It's a bit translucent so you will need several coats, and the primer will definitely have an influence. The one car I use it as an overall color, I "primed" with Model Master Italian Red (an orange-y red). Airbrushed about three coats. When I polished it out, it went blotchy on me (as I learned that metallics will do more often than not) so I shot a couple more coats and then a couple coats of MM Clear Top Coat enamel and polished that out and it looked great. Next time I use it, I'll put it over flat white or flat yellow primer, unless I want to darken it, in which case I'd shoot it over black primer. 

It's still in the pipeline as Model Master SLR in the "big" bottles, and Testor also now has it in the "little bottle" line, same stuff. My Hobby Lobby has both sizes. Beware, I think they also make it in Acrylic now. 

[STYRENE-SURFER]

15 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Zolatone. Here's their color chart,! ?

 

Yup, that one in the upper left looks perfect. Recreating it on the other hand a bit daunting.

JC and Daniel, Yah you guys convinced me. Pins are go. OH nice looking Cuda by the way.

First the front pair, These had to be glued to the (what is supposed to look like a cobbled out front radiator support)

the Sub Frame is thin and would never take the strain of repeated on and off of the hood. They are kinda clunky but

hopefully robust enough for the job.

7 hours ago, Snake45 said:

When I polished it out, it went blotchy on me (as I learned that metallics will do more often than not)

Yah, this can be a problem. I think I will choose an non metallic color. ?

[STYRENE-SURFER]

8 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Oh my that is a cool one! I hadn't seen it before. Rear wheel openings look kinda close to the AMT kit. Interesting that it seems to have Shelby roof windows and a Shelby grille, too. And American TTs and Enderle bug-catchers are ALWAYS cool! Daddy likes! 

Found on the HAMB,  it also has the front wheel arches moved forward several inches.

Something I chose not to attempt ? 

[Snake45]

1 hour ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

Yup, that one in the upper left looks perfect. Recreating it on the other hand a bit daunting.

JC and Daniel, Yah you guys convinced me. Pins are go. OH nice looking Cuda by the way.

First the front pair, These had to be glued to the (what is supposed to look like a cobbled out front radiator support)

the Sub Frame is thin and would never take the strain of repeated on and off of the hood. They are kinda clunky but

hopefully robust enough for the job.

Yah, this can be a problem. I think I will choose an non metallic color. ?

Just clear-coat the metallic and polish that out, no problem. Done it dozens of times. 

I have a short list of metallic paints I've been able to polish out without clearcoating: Model Master Arctic Blue and Model Master Honduras Maroon (sadly, now long discontinued). 

[STYRENE-SURFER]

1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

Just clear-coat the metallic and polish that out, no problem. Done it dozens of times. 

I have a short list of metallic paints I've been able to polish out without clearcoating: Model Master Arctic Blue and Model Master Honduras Maroon (sadly, now long discontinued). 

I've got time to ponder that, and still have an open mind as far as colors go.

For those wondering, I plan on carefully drilling those hood pin holes 

from the underneath. Just happen to have a long enough drill bit for

the job. ?        

No Coffee or any inebriates wile doing so. ?

[Straightliner59]

4 hours ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

OH nice looking Cuda by the way.

Thanks, Kurt! I posted more photos the under glass section. This Stangarang, is gonna' be cool!

Edited August 7, 2020 by Straightliner59

[STYRENE-SURFER]

5 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

Thanks, Kurt! I posted more photos the under glass section. This Stangarang, is gonna' be cool!

Heck yah, I looked at your under glass pic's. Sure hope that a few hours in the sun can fix those decals.

Either way it's a really nice Cuda! 

 Stangarang ? Ha Ha. Yes something ran by a team that bought an old A/FX Mustang to run the next year.

? they just stripped it down more and match raced it. Well that's the story.

[Straightliner59]

20 minutes ago, STYRENE-SURFER said:

Ha Ha. Yes something ran by a team that bought an old A/FX Mustang to run the next year.

? they just stripped it down more and match raced it. Well that's the story.

It's perfectly plausible!

[STYRENE-SURFER]

Pin location mounts all glued in and drilled out the holes in hood. Whew?

The parts are all assembled here temporarily again. This is mostly for seeing how and if there is a way to put all these parts of this kit back together again. ?

Edited August 14, 2020 by STYRENE-SURFER
Grammar dude

[TransAmMike]

Your work on the  front suspension, shocks and steering is awesome.  I'm scratch building a somewhat similar front suspension for my 57 Chevy gasser but I don't have the patience (or ability) to go into the impeccable detail you're doing.  You have given me some new ideas tho.???

[STYRENE-SURFER]

Thanx Mike. I do make an effort to photograph the process hoping my experiences 

can be of help to others. No expert at this stuff like I have said before it's all patience 

and thinking through difficulties. There is no shortage of fantastic modelers here

who have inspired me and given me ideas.

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

Your work on the  front suspension, shocks and steering is awesome. 

Unfortunately because I have switched to a blown engine I will have to tweak the cross stear

setup a bit. That big belt crank pulley being the problem. I have raised the front engine mount

by 0.020" and then will likely have to put a kink in the steering rod. 

[afx]

Hood pin setup looks great.