Replicating Body Side Marker Lights How 2: Suggestioins Anyone

[69NovaYenko]

After putting in a substantial amount of time and effort to sand, putty, prime and shoot several color coats in an effort to execute a flawless paint and body work on my projects I always seem to struggle with those darn body side  marker lights. Provided I have managed not to bury the detail throughout the sanding, priming and color coat phase. They are small detail in 1/25 scale that masking and brush painting is challenging at best. I have botched several great paint jobs attempting to replicate this tiny detail. And, God forbid please don`t let the pesky little buggers be round instead of rectangle...that`s a whole different can of worms. I`m inquiring to see how others have addressed this issue. Of course I could just ignore them but that would not be replicating the cars faithfully nor growing my skill set.

P.S. How do you replica Amber (basely yellow) side masker lights on a yellow car body or Red side markers on a red car body? The brushed in marker lights just seem to blend into the background not pop and stand out as they should.

Any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance for the feedback.

Edited April 28, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[Exotics_Builder]

You didn't mention model, but sometimes PE frets will have side marker lights included.  If yes, applying Tamiya clear yellow over the front and clear red over the rear does a respectable job.  Otherwise, decals are sometimes provided or available.  Not as convincing, but can be workable.  Otherwise, you need to scratch build them one of two ways.  One would be with plastic strip to create the frame and you "color" in or build a template to cut a recess in the body (more modern cars) and fill smooth with liquid clear and then color.

[Foxer]

It sounds like you are asking about a lens cast into the body. I would just paint the lens with a regular silver paint, like Testors,  as this is the easiest to do with a sharp edge and covers excellently. Then us a fine Sharpie in red and orange for the color. This is still an easy job as my hands get unsteadier.

I have also cast the shape in Bondic, sometimes in a rubber mold off the body. This would let you sand off the body smooth. These are some side lights from a GMC van and some door winders in Bondic.

 

Edited April 28, 2016 by Foxer

[BigTallDad]

It would help to know what model you're referring to.

Are the side markers molded into the fenders similar to hood/trunk emblems? If so, put some BMF over them and, after each coat of paint, use a piece of wood (I prefer balsa, more porous) soaked in lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the BMF. After all is said and done, cut a decal of the proper color and use it for the lens.

[StevenGuthmiller]

It would help to know what model you're referring to.

Are the side markers molded into the fenders similar to hood/trunk emblems? If so, put some BMF over them and, after each coat of paint, use a piece of wood (I prefer balsa, more porous) soaked in lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the BMF. After all is said and done, cut a decal of the proper color and use it for the lens.

I agree with most of what Ray said.

I just use the same technique that I use for scripts.

I don't build a lot of cars with marker lights, but when I do, this is how I do them.

Like Ray, I apply foil to them, but I don't clean them off after each coat of paint.

I apply the foil before the "last" color coat & then clean it off just once before clear coating over it.

You could then apply some Testors "Stop Light Red" or "Turn Signal Amber" to the lens before or after clear coating depending on the clear you use.

I use pretty much the exact same technique for body scripts with color in them.

Examples in the hood badge on this '62 Ford, & the trunk ornament on this '61 Buick.

 

Steve

 

 

 

[snacktruck67]

I agree with the BMF however I use Model Masters Amber turn signal and Red stop light paints, thinned just a hair to let the paint flow evenly.

[BigTallDad]

I should have been clearer...

If the sidemarkers or scripts are nice and crisp, it might not be necessary to apply foil first and remove paint after each coat.

If the sidemarkers or scripts are faint, waiting until the final coat might cause a build-up of paint and clarity could be lost.

PLAN B: Make a foil casting of the sidemarker, then sand off the sidemarker. After body painting is complete, paint (if necessary) and attach the foil casting.

 

Edited April 29, 2016 by BigTallDad

[StevenGuthmiller]

If the sidemarkers or scripts are faint, waiting until the final coat might cause a build-up of paint and clarity could be lost.

 

 

That's true depending on the paint you're using, how many coats you use & how heavy they are.

I've done some very faint scripts with my method & had no problems at all.

Even after 4 or 5 coats of primer & about 3 coats of color before that final color coat.

Most of the detail "hide" comes later from the clear coats.

At least it does for me.

On my current '66 Chrysler project, the "300" badges on the c-pillars were almost non-existent.

They still worked out ok.

 

Steve

 

[Tom Geiger]

Very simple!  BMF the marker area. Color in with a Sharpie pen. 

[Snake45]

I agree with the BMF however I use Model Masters Amber turn signal and Red stop light paints, thinned just a hair to let the paint flow evenly.

I like those too. I use the Amber over either yellow or orange, depending on what it looked like on the real car. Used to use a lot of the Turn Signal Red but these days I'm more partial to their Clear Red Acryl over silver--Looks even better than the TSR.

[oldcarfan]

BMF works for me as well. I just put it on and use either a red, yellow or orange Sharpie depending...

[Mike Chernecki]

I use baremetal foil and paint with either amber, red or white glass stain.

[dshue76]

I use bare metal foil topped with turn signal amber and stop light red paint. Silver paint tends to re wet when coated with these paints, this is the reason I use foil.

[snacktruck67]

I use baremetal foil and paint with either amber, red or white glass stain.

What is this white glass stain?

[Mike Chernecki]

What is this white glass stain?

Look under glass stains on this page. http://decoart.com/glasspaint/glass-stains

 

[snacktruck67]

Thanks, most interesting.