Cutting/Gluing fiber glass

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Wondering what I can use to make precise cuts in fiberglass?

I've been able to use my Testors hand saw to do the big ones w/o damage but it seems one can really mess up the material if not careful.  I've some small cuts and wish to not run into problems.  I noticed my hand saw had a tendency to get stuck as the fiber glass seems grippy.  Would water work as a lubricant?

In terms of gluing to various different types of material like Evergreen styrene sheets etc, seems like epoxy is the call?

I'm chopping up a slot body cast in fiber glass.

 

Edited May 8, 2016 by aurfalien

[Ace-Garageguy]

A razor saw or Dremel cutoff wheels is all I use on model 'glass, and I do a LOT of model f'glass (real cars and aircraft too, so I have a little experience with the stuff...)

Don't use any lubricant. Your model fiberglass is probably in a polyester matrix. Polyester absorbs moisture and other liquids. Cut it dry AND WEAR A RESPIRATOR.

And yes, gluing to other materials with epoxy is preferred...and I STILL say that 5-minute epoxy is useless for anything other than temporary fixturing.

You can also try "toughened" CA, like the Loctite product shown here.

I usually err on the side of overkill when it comes to gluing structural parts, even model parts, that have to be handled, absorb any kind of stress, or require further work like sanding and shaping.

I DON'T like having things break while I'm working on them.

Also keep in mind that fiberglass is part GLASS. (I've actually had morons argue that it's not.) It has real glass fibers in it. They're very hard and very abrasive, so they will take the edge off of blades and tools rapidly.

 

Edited May 8, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[aurfalien]

A razor saw

Hi,

I assume a razor saw is a razor blade (no teeth) mounted on a user friendly handle?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Hi,

I assume a razor saw is a razor blade (no teeth) mounted on a user friendly handle?

 

No. A razor saw looks like a straight razor, and has little teeth on it. 32TPI (teeth per inch) is good for non-wood model work.

Nickel-steel photoetched saws that fit other (standard) X-acto (and other design) handles work well too.

           

 

 

[aurfalien]

No. A razor saw looks like a straight razor, and has little teeth on it. 32TPI (teeth per inch) is good for non-wood model work.

Nickel-steel photoetched saws that fit other (standard) X-acto (and other design) handles work well too.

           

 

 

Ah, looks like my Testors saw, cool.

[peteski]

As for glue, you can use epoxy or CA glue.