Press 'n Seal

[Jon Cole]

Does Glad "Press 'n Seal" work for a masking medium for "large" areas, such as roofs, trunks, etc?

[Snake45]

I think I've heard of guys over in Model Airplane World using it for such.

[Exotics_Builder]

It can.  You just need to be sure any paint it goes over is thoroughly dry or it will leave an imprint. 

 

[Jon Cole]

That's great news. Thank you much!

[BigTallDad]

I'd be a bit skeptical using a plastic wrap that can generate static electicity (which in turn attracts dust)..

[crazyjim]

Those areras aren't that large in 1/25 scale.  I'd use tape.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Masking paper works well too.

You can pick up a roll in the paint department at any hardware store for a couple of bucks.

Enough to last you forever!

 

Steve

[gtx6970]

Masking paper works well too.

You can pick up a roll in the paint department at any hardware store for a couple of bucks.

Enough to last you forever!

 

Steve

what is masking paper ?

I had thought about the cling wrap idea before,,just never tried it . Makes me wonder how well it will seal along the edges ,,,.

I have a sox and martin duster build coming up REAL soon and I don't want paint bleeding under tape lines ,,and the thought of painting clear on it first to me sounds like its just going to make a thicker edge

Edited May 10, 2016 by gtx6970

[snacktruck67]

Again, the cling wrap can cause static electricity.  Not a real sound idea.

 

 

[jeffs396]

In my kitchen experience, the Press-N-Seal leaves a sticky residue on the dishes it's stretched over, so I'd be afraid of that...

[Tom Geiger]

I've used cling wrap to mask.  The trick is that you don't use it close to the actual painting, more as an overspray blanket.  For my two tones, I will do the edge with Tamiya tape or BMF,  then match that up with painters blue tape.  I'll cover most of the exterior with that. Then I'll mask the inside of the body, and maybe the top of the body with the cling wrap, carefully sealing all edges with blue tape.  

[StevenGuthmiller]

what is masking paper ?

I had thought about the cling wrap idea before,,just never tried it . Makes me wonder how well it will seal along the edges ,,,.

I have a sox and martin duster build coming up REAL soon and I don't want paint bleeding under tape lines ,,and the thought of painting clear on it first to me sounds like its just going to make a thicker edge

Masking paper is just a roll of recycled brown paper used by house & car painters for masking off larger areas before painting.

Not much different than say, newspaper in composition without the nasty "print" to worry about.

There are probably other types of paper you could use, but whether or not it would do what you want it to do is the question.

Masking paper is designed to be impervious to the paint.

I use it all of the time when I need to mask a larger area & I either don't want to waste the tape or am worried about the tape tearing something off of the body like foil, decals, or for that matter, clear coat!

I've had instances where masking tape has left impressions in the paint, so generally I avoid tape, especially garden variety masking tape if at all possible.

I guess I just feel it's safer to stay away from sticking too much adhesive on your prized paint job.

This information won't help much with your project Bill.

You still need to use tape for your paint lines, you just won't have to cover the entire body with it if you're just painting a pinstripe.

I absolutely would not trust using any sort of cling wrap as a mask, especially if your thinking of it sticking well enough to use it for the line between colors.

I can't get the stuff to stick to anything except itself!

 

I've had this roll of masking paper for many years, & I'll be using it for many more.

 

Steve

 

 

 

[Art Anderson]

Every "Cling" wrap I have ever seen or used has been PVC, and a soft PVC at that.  Soft PVC's WILL damage even as well-dried paintjob, just as easily as the stuff can do when molded into model car tires!

Art

[redneckrigger]

I used to use green masking paper. But just before I closed my 1:1 body shop, I started using blue coated masking paper. It is poly coated and works great, MUCH better than the green paper, and still use it on my model builds. I also use green and blue masking tape. Whenever I don't want to risk the tape being too sticky, I drag the piece of tape between my fingers to lessen the tackiness. This is an old painter's trick to ensure that when you remove the tape it doesn't remove what's under it. I also use regular automotive pinstriping tape for fine edges on a two tone job. It works VERY well. I never liked using poly or plastic masking material except to cover areas against overspray. I always found that if it got paint onto it, it would flake off when unmasking. Then, because of static charge, the flakes would want to stick to the fresh paint job. Had a few high pucker factor moments until I learned NOT to use poly anywhere near the actual paint.

[69NovaYenko]

Every "Cling" wrap I have ever seen or used has been PVC, and a soft PVC at that.  Soft PVC's WILL damage even as well-dried paintjob, just as easily as the stuff can do when molded into model car tires!

Art

 I just had a very bad experience using cling wrap on my current project. Had to do a two tone paint on a section of the body. I used Tamiya tape to establish my paint cut line. However, instead of using masking paper to cover up the part I did not want to spray over I opted to use cling wrap. The next morning the paint had dried and I removed the cling warp. The paint masked off by the cling wrap was soft and the cling wrap had transferred it wrinkles into the paints surface.  Additionally, the actual plastic of the body where the cling wrap had been was now slightly soft ,stick and gooy.  Mind you the base color had cured, I was using lacquer and the lacquer  had been laided down for over a week before the masking job. I eventually had to strip the entire body and start over again.

I didn't know exactly what caused this to happen but I was certain it had to be caused by the cling wrap. Art, thanks for shedding light of what most likely happened. I personally will not use cling wrap again.. I learned this lesson the hard way. 

Edited May 11, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[Miatatom]

In my kitchen experience, the Press-N-Seal leaves a sticky residue on the dishes it's stretched over, so I'd be afraid of that...

I've had the same problem with residue from the Press N Seal. I managed to get it off but had to repaint the area.

I highly recommend it to use on open containers of paint. After use, wipe the edge off, put a piece of PNS on it and screw the lid on. No more almost impossible to remove sticking lids.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Does Glad "Press 'n Seal" work for a masking medium for "large" areas, such as roofs, trunks, etc?

I'm gathering that the moral of this story is........No Jon, I would not use Press & Seal for masking!

At least from what I've been reading here, I know I will not be using it.

 

Steve

 

[peteski]

I also heard that modelers use this stuff and like it so I decided to give it a go.

I tried once and never again - still have the roll in my workshop.  While it worked well as a mask for large areas, after it was removed it left plenty of the sticky adhesive on the model!  It was a mess!  The funny thing is that I didn't even use it for masking paint - I simply applied over the model to protect it from fingerprints while I was handling it.  So it is not like the paint was not dry, or the solvent from the new coat of paint somehow permeated the wrap and dissolved the glue.

I say: stay away!

[Jon Cole]

Thank you all!
Well, at least I can still use it to line my spray booth.
If I had a place to use it, and a compressor.
That's the down side of moving.

[Miatatom]

I highly recommend it to use on open containers of paint. After use, wipe the edge off, put a piece of PNS on it and screw the lid on. No more almost impossible to remove sticking lids.

I think it's worth it just for this use.

[peteski]

 

I highly recommend it to use on open containers of paint. After use, wipe the edge off, put a piece of PNS on it and screw the lid on. No more almost impossible to remove sticking lids.

Why not just plain plastic wrap or even thin plastic bag material?  PNS has pressure sensitive adhesive which comes off fairly easy. Now add some solvent from the paint and the adhesive will most likely dissolve and stick to the lip on the jar.  Not something I would like to see on the lip of my jars.

Edited May 16, 2016 by peteski