best glue to use on windows

[lugkcorky]

I was curious on what is the best glue to use on Windows I absolutely hate using .ca glue cause it fogsthe window unless you use kicker but the kicker makes the window look weird I was curious on micro kystal klear glue to see how it worked please any help is greatly appreciated I was 

[JollySipper]

I like Elmers school glue, it doesn't make the strongest bond, but if you handle the model easily it works fine. The less glue you use, the better it holds........ I use it to attach mirrors and door handles on finished paint. If you make a goof with it, it cleans up with soapy water......... 

[TarheelRick]

I mostly use Testors window glue ( can't remember the real name for it, it is in the basement and I am too lazy to walk down there to see right now).  It works really well, is almost invisible and holds very nicely.

[Snake45]

I'll use white glue, CA, or epoxy--whatever works in the case at hand and work easiest.

CA glue fogging can be removed with rubbing alcohol on a rag or paper towel, as long as you can get to it. This isn't usually a problem on cars (except for things like headlights) but can be on airplanes sometimes.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I prefer any of the PVA white glues...polyvinyl acetate...that are packaged specifically for doing clear parts.

These include Micro Krystal Klear     Testors       and Pacer Formula 560   

Elmers Glue All is the same stuff, and will also work.  There are other useful PVA glues too, of differing viscosity.

The downside to these is that they have almost zero wet strength, so you often need to fixture windows in place until the stuff dries. Windows also need to fit well, as these glues aren't very strong on non-porous materials like plastic.

The upside is that they dry absolutely clear and disappear entirely. Absolutely no fogging of headlights or other clear parts.

Edited July 7, 2016 by Ace-Garageguy

[espo]

The main window glue I have had the best luck with is Testors Clear Parts Cement. I sometimes will use Crystal Clear Gallery Glass, got mine at JoAnns. On head lights and other very small lenses I have found good old Future works real well.   

[High octane]

I use Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy for clear windows and everything else also. I've been usin' it for years.

[Exotics_Builder]

I prefer any of the PVA white glues...polyvinyl acetate...that are packaged specifically for doing clear parts.

These include Micro Krystal Klear     Testors       and Pacer Formula 560   

Elmers Glue All is the same stuff, and will also work.  There are other useful PVA glues too, of differing viscosity.

The downside to these is that they have almost zero wet strength, so you often need to fixture windows in place until the stuff dries. Windows also need to fit well, as these glues aren't very strong on non-porous materials like plastic.

The upside is that they dry absolutely clear and disappear entirely. Absolutely no fogging of headlights or other clear parts.

 

The main window glue I have had the best luck with is Testors Clear Parts Cement. I sometimes will use Crystal Clear Gallery Glass, got mine at JoAnns. On head lights and other very small lenses I have found good old Future works real well.   

 

I use Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy for clear windows and everything else also. I've been usin' it for years.

I use any of the above depending on the situation.  Epoxy especially where I need to correct some body warpage through the "glass".  A main favorite, though, is Watch Crystal Cement which has a needlepoint applicator, dries reasonably fast and does not fog.  I get mine from Micro Mark

 

 

Edited July 7, 2016 by Exotics_Builder

[Mike_G]

I like 5-minute epoxy best, but I've used CA without it fogging- the trick is to blow the vapor away while it cures. The moisture in your breath also makes it cure faster.

[Bernard Kron]

I use Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy for clear windows and everything else also. I've been usin' it for years.

 

I like 5-minute epoxy best, but I've used CA without it fogging- the trick is to blow the vapor away while it cures. The moisture in your breath also makes it cure faster.

I use 5-minute epoxy too. I apply it at key points that I'm sure won't show, then wait 5 minutes for it to set before pressing the clear part into place. It's so strong you can use very little, and it doesn't fog the glass or paint. If there's any excess it can be easily cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol as long as it hasn't hardened.

Edited July 7, 2016 by Bernard Kron

[lugkcorky]

Awesome guys thank you very much this has been super helpful 

[unclescott58]

Been using Testor's window glue for years. For 99% of what need it works fine.

[Harry P.]

If the glass fits well without any warping, I flow Future into the joint with a small brush. I also attach headlight lenses by flowing Future around the lens. Sometimes I'll flow a tiny drop of liquid cement into the joint and let capillary action draw it into the joint.

[Snake45]

On old-school models where the windshield and backlite are connected by big "runners," I don't even use any kind of glue. I just install the glass with masking tape over the runners, and then paint the masking tape to match the rest of the headliner color. But then, I like to take my old builds apart for thorough cleaning, or upgrading, or even full rebuilds, so I never glue anything in place that I don't absolutely have to.

[Longbox55]

I've been using Bondic for clear parts lately.  http://www.bondicusa.com/

[Harry P.]

I saw an infomercial on TV about that. Looks interesting.

[russosborne]

Harry,

Have you had any issues using the Future if you then also use it to clear the body? I'm wondering if the later application will cause the earlier one to loosen up?

Thanks,

Russ

[Snake45]

Harry,

Have you had any issues using the Future if you then also use it to clear the body? I'm wondering if the later application will cause the earlier one to loosen up?

Thanks,

Russ

I've brushed Future-over-Future, many coats, many times, and have never had the impression that the new coat was disturbing or loosening or interacting with the old coat, the way the solvent in a second coat of (brushed) enamel or lacquer can.

[russosborne]

Thanks!

Russ

[charlie8575]

I mostly use Testors window glue ( can't remember the real name for it, it is in the basement and I am too lazy to walk down there to see right now).  It works really well, is almost invisible and holds very nicely.

I second this. Very good stuff.

Charlie Larkin

[tmathew1us]

I have had some issue with Future and the time it takes to dry, especially if the part being glued is a little reluctant to stay in place. 

I have also used Tamiya clear with a toothpick and capillary action - it dries a little faster than Future, and can be thinned or cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol. I feel it bonds quicker than Future.