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Posted

Hello all hope everyone's swell. Quick question any idea how to "tint" windows? Is there a spray paint that will do the trick? As always help is appreciated. Thank you.

Regards

JerseeJerry

Posted

I did the Mazmanian '41 Willys and used a light coat of Tamiya clear Red, same as on the body. I have also used a very light coat of Tamiya TS-71 Smoke for others. I have seen other builders use Clear Blue and Green to look more OEM.  

Posted

I did the Mazmanian '41 Willys and used a light coat of Tamiya clear Red, same as on the body. I have also used a very light coat of Tamiya TS-71 Smoke for others. I have seen other builders use Clear Blue and Green to look more OEM.  

Thanks. I will try the smoke

Posted

Of course, the one drawback to tinting the glass with paint is the chance you'll get some dust or crud on the glass. You can use RIT fabric dye to tint the windows with no chance of getting any dust or crud on the glass.

  • Like 1
Posted

Of course, the one drawback to tinting the glass with paint is the chance you'll get some dust or crud on the glass. You can use RIT fabric dye to tint the windows with no chance of getting any dust or crud on the glass.

I'm going to have to try that.

I've been using a combination of clear colored acrylics & Testors "Lacquer" window tint.

It works pretty well, but I'm always looking for some variations in color that the window tint paint doesn't offer & the results of the acrylic paint on clear plastic is very sketchy.

I just never would have thought that fabric dye would penetrate the clear plastic well enough to give you a uniform finish.

How durable is it after it dries Harry?

 

Steve

Posted

RIT will dye almost anything- I used to dye nylatron HO slotcar chassis with it

I've used actual automotive tint film and Tamiya "smoke" to tint windows in the past- the tint film looks the most realistic

Posted

 

I've used actual automotive tint film and Tamiya "smoke" to tint windows in the past- the tint film looks the most realistic

You beat me to mentioning using actual film to tint with........ the only drawback to it is the "glass" has to be flat or have a single curve in it. No compound curves, unless you are handy with a heat gun...........

Posted

You beat me to mentioning using actual film to tint with........ the only drawback to it is the "glass" has to be flat or have a single curve in it. No compound curves, unless you are handy with a heat gun...........

Wouldn't work too well for me then.

I do a lot of 50s & 60s wrap around glass.

 

Steve

Posted

Of course, the one drawback to tinting the glass with paint is the chance you'll get some dust or crud on the glass. You can use RIT fabric dye to tint the windows with no chance of getting any dust or crud on the glass.

Harry, you beat me to it!  Model airplane flyers have used RIT Dye for decades, to tint clear plastic canopies--works like a charm, and no problem with little nits of dust or lint either!

Art

Posted

How do you apply the RIT? I am thinking you would only want to tint the inside of the glass?

Thanks,

Russ

Yes, I'd like some detailed instructions too, please.

Posted

RIT dye comes with instructions. Basically you add a specific amount of the dye to a specific amount of water and bring to a boil. Let the water cool a bit (you don't want to put the kit glass into boiling water!)... then just put the kit glass into the RIT/water mix. The longer you leave it in there, the more obvious and darker the tint. Sort of like dying Easter eggs!

Posted

RIT dye comes with instructions. Basically you add a specific amount of the dye to a specific amount of water and bring to a boil. Let the water cool a bit (you don't want to put the kit glass into boiling water!)... then just put the kit glass into the RIT/water mix. The longer you leave it in there, the more obvious and darker the tint. Sort of like dying Easter eggs!

Harry after you RIT the glass do you clear coat it to prevent scratches? Or is it self sustaining?

Posted

So with the dye you DO coat both sides of the "glass"?

Not sure that is something I would want to do. Tinting is normally done on a real car just on the inside portion.

Now, this would be a good idea for making say colored glass for a race car (thinking of the ones like the Bad News 55 Chevy).

Thanks,

Russ

Posted

Harry after you RIT the glass do you clear coat it to prevent scratches? Or is it self sustaining?

The dyed plastic is just like the original clear plastic, only dyed. The dye actually goes into the plastic; it won't rub off.

Posted

So with the dye you DO coat both sides of the "glass"?

I think that with the RIT dye, you're not just "coating" the glass, you're actually dying it through and through.

Posted

That's a great method, Harry. Now I know what I'll use to tint the clear plastic lower dome on my 1/72 C-57D Space Cruiser. 

Another method to tint glass with compound curves is to spray smoke, or other transparent colors, onto a sheet of clear decal paper. Once the paint dries, spray some Krylon Super Clear to seal it. You can apply it like window tint film; except, it's a lot thinner and can conform to the curves by using Micro Sol.

Posted

That's a great method, Harry. Now I know what I'll use to tint the clear plastic lower dome on my 1/72 C-57D Space Cruiser. 

Another method to tint glass with compound curves is to spray smoke, or other transparent colors, onto a sheet of clear decal paper. Once the paint dries, spray some Krylon Super Clear to seal it. You can apply it like window tint film; except, it's a lot thinner and can conform to the curves by using Micro Sol.

That's a great idea.

And Harry, thanks for the details on the RIT. As my Old Dad likes to say, "You learn something new every day if you're not careful."

Posted

But that's really a different thing. You're not tinting the glass, you're just adding that tint across the top. I think the guys here are asking how to tint the whole window.

Posted

Here's how I did the blue tint on this Skyraider canopy:

1. Bought a new bottle of Testor Sapphire Blue Metalflake.

2. Shook it up real good, then let it sit for a few days--until the metal had settled to the bottom, but not the blue color.

3. Carefully poured off the clear blue paint from the top of the bottle.

4. Thinned it with lighter fluid, and airbrushed it on the inside of the canopy--several light coats, all done at one sitting, finishing up with a wet coat not quite wet enough to run, drip, or sag.

Nowadays there are probably better ways to do this, but it worked for me....

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