bondo trick

[Spike]

im woundering if theres anything i can put on parts for when i bondo around another part that the bondo will NOT stick to parts i dont want it to. im workin on a uptown 300C kit and i cut the roof of. its not gonna have a drop top boot on it or an uptop on it,permanant convertable. i gotta put bondo between the trunk lid and the rear backage tray on the interior, and it would be easier to fill that gap with the interior bucket in and the trunk lid on but dont wanna get bondo on them

[Junior73]

I have succesfully used masking tape. Put it down where you don't want the bondo, and after you get your putty down, but before it hardens, while it's slightly tacky, pull the tape at a 45 degree angle away from the bondo and it should give you a clean line where the tape was, and no bondo where you don't want it.

Edited April 29, 2008 by Junior73

[Spike]

thanks keith ill try that tonight,,,now why couldnt i think of that lol

[m408]

I have used a thin layer of vasoline on the part that I wanted to use as a "mold".

[Spike]

thats a good idea to, dont think we have any though. ill keep that in mind though

[VW Dave]

Wax paper might work as well, and almost every kitchen has it. I've had good results with it when I'm gluing stuff with epoxy, and I don't want the epoxy to go certain places. I used it to protect my spare Beetle body from drips when I epoxied the roof rack pieces together:

I also used wax paper to keep Squadron putty out of the seam on my diecast Falcon's boot lid, kinda like masons use forms for pouring concrete, and it peeled right off the dried putty after a few days:

[Spike]

well i MIGHT have to redo where i bondoed so if i do ill try n find some vasoline and put it on the bottom side of the trunk lide and interior package tray and tape the top side so the bodo wont stick to the top or bottom of the parts that gotta come off

thanks for the help guys

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

Go to the kitchen and get some cooking oil and smear it on the parts you don't want it to stick to.

[VW Dave]

Nothing personal anybody, but I'd be leery of the clean-up after putting Vaseline or cooking oil on a model......even if it's a car getting a flat finish, contamination could be a real issue.

[Spike]

thats true i didnt think of that

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

I've never had any problem cleaning it off. just wash in hot soapy water, then wipe it w/ some enamel thinner. Sand and prime as usual then.

[Spike]

where i gotta put it it would be a hard to sand cuz its in the jamb work of the trunk lid

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

where i gotta put it it would be a hard to sand cuz its in the jamb work of the trunk lid

That still should be no problem. Just take an old brush and wash the area down w/ enamel thinner.

[MikeMc]

DAWN DISH SOAP

[MR BIGGS]

I try not to use bondo at all, nothing but zap-a-gap for me. But when I have to I do like Junior said to. I take strips of masking tape and place them where I need them, and then I apply the bondo to just that spot. It saves me tons of sanding time that way.

[jeffinvt]

Stupid Question #1, you'll get alot from me. What is zap-a-gap...

[MR BIGGS]

Stupid Question #1, you'll get alot from me. What is zap-a-gap...

Zap-a-gap is just another type of super glue that bond's almost anything. I use it to glue all my model's part's together all of the time, but I also use it for gap filling along with the accelerator witch make's it dry in second's. The reason I like it so much is that it dry's hard in second's and you dont have to wait min or hrs before you can start to sand you project.

and here is a 32 I just made 5 min ago to show you how fast it work's and there is no wait time for the bondo to dry. this is all done with Zap-a-gap and styrene and it"s strong and I can paint right over it.

[billd64]

dave

i wash all my models down diligently with dawn dish detergent, ive never had a problem with anything afterwards, Ive been stripping wih brake fluid, havent been able to find the engine degreaser locally from castrolthat people rave about.

I also have been postponing the inevitable with either using nitrostan, or another form of bondo, so reading what you guys are doing is inciteful.

I once masked with wax paper, but the body paint tore it up, no idea what bondo wiill do

what about the old glue we used to use as kids from elmers early in school, i know armour guys that using it for masking areas, and then rub it off

bill d.

Nothing personal anybody, but I'd be leery of the clean-up after putting Vaseline or cooking oil on a model......even if it's a car getting a flat finish, contamination could be a real issue.

[billd64]

As i was taught in school, and have learned since I got back into hobby 18 yrs ago, the only stupid/foolish question is the ones never asked, its just like improving model building or fab skills, you cant improve if you dont ask for help, your not alone, i ask questions, sometimes too many as i'm nervous about trying new things, like recently ..... i was challenged to build a plane, a friggen plane of all things and i normally do cars and trucks.... now i was volunteered for club challenge with a plane. I havent build a plane since I was 16 I think

zap is a name brand it has 3 versions of instant glue, and a debonder

its similar to the old krazy glue that everyone used to brag about years ago.

many hobby stores have found a way to buy similar tubes of the cynoclide glue and put a generic label on them, which works as well

I found that if ou put it in refrigerator, you have longer shelf life

I usually use medium version, as thin runs too much

zap or the generic sets 100x's faster then testors glue, adn I found that isopropyl alcohol, or paint thinner cleans it off hands

bill d.

Stupid Question #1, you'll get alot from me. What is zap-a-gap...