gtx6970 Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 (edited) I picked this one up last winter as a future project. And once I saw a 1/1 pic of the car in I had to move it to the front of the line this winter. ( I dont build much in the summer months ) So in late summer / fall I paint maybe a half dozen bodies in prep for winter indoor activities. This is one of 4 I have in process at the moment There was nothing to add BMF to along the base of the windshield so I've added strips along the perimeter of the opening for the lower trim mldg and then stacked some small strips to give some added depth for the wiper blades. Also gonna try the BMF under the paint for the emblems one more time and see how it works on this one. 1st my inspiration for the project . Edited December 9, 2017 by gtx6970
gtx6970 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Posted October 3, 2016 (edited) Its Tamiya white primer , wet sanded with 1000 grit. I then had the base coat paint mixed locally. My goal is to replicate the OE color called Maple Leaf ( or vintage burgundy depending on where you look ) I'm not 100% completely convinced they mixed it to dead on color match ,,,but It looks awfully close in person compared to pics I found online. This is just in base coat, once I do the emblems I'll top it off with a few coats of Upol urethane clear . Then let it sit a week or so and go at it with my polishing pads and some rubbing compound . Any comments good or bad are welcome, I'm a big boy and can take it if you see something I don't. Edited December 2, 2017 by gtx6970
High octane Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Very nice, and that is the AMT '60 Lincoln Continental Convertible kit # 4460 and not SMP.
gtx6970 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Posted October 3, 2016 Very nice, and that is the AMT '60 Lincoln Continental Convertible kit # 4460 and not SMP. Thanks ,,,,,, I wasn't 100% sure who made it. ( I don't have the original box ) Will update the thread
CometMan Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Very nice, Bill! I love those big boats! Your color looks a little to be a little too bright red for Maple Leaf, the examples of that color are usually a darker color with a more purple tint, but that could be the pictures we are seeing. Anyways, it is a good color for that car!
gtx6970 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Posted October 3, 2016 Your color looks a little to be a little too bright red for Maple Leaf, the examples of that color are usually a darker color with a more purple tint, but that could be the pictures we are seeing.Agreed,In person it looks a little different than my PC monitor shows it to actually be ( especially out in the sun ). But even then I think its off a tad. But I'm going to live with it as is .Going out today to pick up some paint for the interior and some Tamiya conical swabs,,,,I've got my fingers crossed I get the emblems to come out right
High octane Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 You didn't wipe the paint off the foil emblems as yet? I've never tried it yet, however some of the guys that have done it say they wipe the emblems with a swab (Q Tip) or a toothpick dipped in thinner to get the paint off the emblems as soon as possible. I myself am going to give this method a try next month.
StevenGuthmiller Posted October 3, 2016 Posted October 3, 2016 Agreed, In person it looks a little different than my PC monitor shows it to actually be ( especially out in the sun ). But even then I think its off a tad. But I'm going to live with it as is . Going out today to pick up some paint for the interior and some Tamiya conical swabs,,,,I've got my fingers crossed I get the emblems to come out right Looks good Bill. Just take your time with the scripts. I'm betting that they'll look great! Just as a side note, When I use this method, I use MCW "air brush cleaner", not your garden variety home improvement store lacquer thinner. The stuff is wildly hot & will take any kind of paint off with very little effort. The cheap lacquer thinner smells to me more like acetone than lacquer thinner. Might not be a bad idea to go to your auto paint supply place & see if they have a good cleaner for paint guns & air brushes. Might make a big difference. You didn't wipe the paint off the foil emblems as yet? I've never tried it yet, however some of the guys that have done it say they wipe the emblems with a swab (Q Tip) or a toothpick dipped in thinner to get the paint off the emblems as soon as possible. I myself am going to give this method a try next month. Not necessary. You can clean the scripts any time. As long as you have a good thinner, it doesn't matter when you do it. Steve Steve
gtx6970 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Posted October 3, 2016 You didn't wipe the paint off the foil emblems as yet? I've never tried it yet, however some of the guys that have done it say they wipe the emblems with a swab (Q Tip) or a toothpick dipped in thinner to get the paint off the emblems as soon as possible. I myself am going to give this method a try next month.got them cleaned off this afternoon. Turned out pretty good using the pointed swabs Steve mentioned ...only i used laquer thinner. Will snap off a picture later. Headed to daughters soccer game now
High octane Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 got them cleaned off this afternoon. Turned out pretty good using the pointed swabs Steve mentioned ...only i used laquer thinner. Will snap off a picture later. Headed to daughters soccer game nowHmmm, I'll have to remember that, and where can I get those pointed swabs? Thanks.
StevenGuthmiller Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 Hmmm, I'll have to remember that, and where can I get those pointed swabs? Thanks.Hobby Lobby carries them. Steve
Mark IV Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 Nice! But note that the "Continental" scripts on the 1/1 are gold colored as well as some of the other trim pieces.
gtx6970 Posted October 4, 2016 Author Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Nice! But note that the "Continental" scripts on the 1/1 are gold colored as well as some of the other trim pieces. I wasnt 100% sure of the color, in some pics they look gold, in others they look chrome . Either way my plan is go over them with a yellow sharpie once the car is done. I think the Mark V emblem on the rear quarter is also gold correct ? I think the emblems came out outstanding. My phone camera didn't want to focus in on it that close. but you can easily read them both . I'm stoked Edited October 4, 2016 by gtx6970
StevenGuthmiller Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 I wasnt 100% sure of the color, in some pics they look gold, in others they look chrome . Either way my plan is go over them with a yellow sharpie once the car is done. I think the Mark V emblem on the rear quarter is also gold correct ? I think the emblems came out outstanding. My phone camera didn't want to focus in on it that close. but you can easily read them both . I'm stoked Glad they worked for you Bill! Like I said, once you get this down, you'll never go back! Steve
Zoom Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 The scripts look very good.I will try this technique on my next car.
carman1 Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 Very nice, Ill have to try this if I can remember to before paint !
drodg Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 The car looks very good. I am going to try doing that with scripts on my next build. I have a special place in my heart for 1960 Lincolns. My friend's parents when I was a kid had a couple of 1960 Lincoln four doors. They were beautiful and huge. i remember being in the back seat and looking at that massive dash. Keep the good work up.
gtx6970 Posted October 4, 2016 Author Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) Got clear on it this morning. and it really REALLY brought out the plum / purple tint to it. I'm super happy with it. Problem is my camera will not capture the color right either indoors or out. And a better picture of the scripts. This one turned out so much better than my previous attempts . Thanks to Mr Annual Steve Guthmiller for the tips Now is goes into hiding to cure , for maybe a week or 2 before I handle it again. Till then time to paint another one. Edited December 2, 2017 by gtx6970
peekay Posted October 4, 2016 Posted October 4, 2016 Coming along very nicely and the scripts look spot-on.
StevenGuthmiller Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 Looks great Bill. Who cares if the color is not an exact match, it still looks terrific! I have the same problems with getting good photos to show the true colors. The best way that I've found is to get it out in the sunlight. That always seems to really make the colors pop! I built a '61 Bonneville a couple of years ago in "Richelieu Blue". It looked kind of "ho-hum" in the house, but when I got it outside to take photos...........Yikes! it was enough to make your eyes bleed! Keep up the good work! Steve
horsepower Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 I'm getting into this pretty late in the game, but for anyone who's interested, you CAN'T JUDGE colors by what you see on screens, or what you see in print. The only true way to check a color is with an actual PAINTED chip, or panel. Inks and color pictures can't capture the exact dyes or toners to get the color right in print and even digital photography isn't fool proof because it still relies on an existing color palette, not the actual pigments. So if you are happy with what you have, chances are it's extremely close if the paint formula was followed carefully by who mixed it.
horsepower Posted October 5, 2016 Posted October 5, 2016 I'm getting into this pretty late in the game, but for anyone who's interested, you CAN'T JUDGE colors by what you see on screens, or what you see in print. The only true way to check a color is with an actual PAINTED chip, or panel. Inks and color pictures can't capture the exact dyes or toners to get the color right in print and even digital photography isn't fool proof because it still relies on an existing color palette, not the actual pigments. So if you are happy with what you have, chances are it's extremely close if the paint formula was followed carefully by who mixed it.Just curious why you didn't put the yellow on the emblems before burying them under clear? You could also use a transparent yellow on the pointed Q tips and get your gold effect, but you might find that a thin coat of transparent orange would look more like gold, in the case of gold anodized aluminum, in most cases it's done with a transparent orange and not allowed to achieve the true orange shade.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now