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Posted (edited)

I picked this one up last winter as a future project. And once I saw a 1/1 pic of the car in I had to move it to the front of the line this winter. ( I dont build much in the summer months ) So in late summer / fall I paint maybe a half dozen bodies in prep for winter indoor activities. This is one of 4 I have in process at the moment

There was nothing to add BMF to along the base of the windshield so I've added strips along the perimeter of the opening  for the lower trim mldg and then  stacked some small strips to give some added depth  for the wiper blades.

Also gonna try the BMF under the paint for the emblems  one more time and see how it works on this one.

1st my inspiration for the project .

 

 

99-138.thumb.jpg.cdfe8867160dbf0046e7bf5

 

 

Edited by gtx6970
Posted (edited)

Its Tamiya white primer , wet sanded with 1000 grit. I then had the base coat  paint mixed locally. My goal is to replicate the OE color called  Maple Leaf  (  or vintage burgundy depending on where you look )

I'm not 100% completely convinced they mixed it to dead on color match  ,,,but It looks awfully close in person compared to pics I found online.

This is just in base coat, once I do the emblems I'll top it off with a few coats of Upol urethane clear . Then let  it sit a week  or so and go at it with my polishing pads and some rubbing compound .

 

Any comments good or bad are welcome, I'm a big boy and can take it if you see something I don't.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by gtx6970
Posted

Very nice, and that is the AMT '60 Lincoln Continental Convertible kit # 4460 and not SMP.

Thanks ,,,,,, I wasn't 100% sure who made it. ( I don't have the original box ) Will update the thread

Posted

Very nice, Bill! I love those big boats! Your color looks a little to be a little too bright red for Maple Leaf, the examples of that color are usually a darker color with a more purple tint, but that could be the pictures we are seeing. Anyways, it is a good color for that car!

Posted

Your color looks a little to be a little too bright red for Maple Leaf, the examples of that color are usually a darker color with a more purple tint, but that could be the pictures we are seeing.

Agreed,

In person it looks a little different  than my PC monitor shows it to actually be ( especially out in the sun ). But even then I think its off a tad. But I'm going to live with it as is .

Going out today to pick up some paint for the interior and some Tamiya conical swabs,,,,I've got my  fingers crossed I get the emblems to come out right

Posted

You didn't wipe the paint off the foil emblems as yet? I've never tried it yet, however some of the guys that have done it say they wipe the emblems with a swab (Q Tip) or a toothpick dipped in thinner to get the paint off the emblems as soon as possible. I myself am going to give this method a try next month.

Posted

Agreed,

In person it looks a little different  than my PC monitor shows it to actually be ( especially out in the sun ). But even then I think its off a tad. But I'm going to live with it as is .

Going out today to pick up some paint for the interior and some Tamiya conical swabs,,,,I've got my  fingers crossed I get the emblems to come out right

Looks good Bill.

Just take your time with the scripts.

I'm betting that they'll look great! :)

Just as a side note, When I use this method, I use MCW "air brush cleaner", not your garden variety home improvement store lacquer thinner.

The stuff is wildly hot & will take any kind of paint off with very little effort.

The cheap lacquer thinner smells to me more like acetone than lacquer thinner.

Might not be a bad idea to go to your auto paint supply place & see if they have a good cleaner for paint guns & air brushes.

Might make a big difference.

 

You didn't wipe the paint off the foil emblems as yet? I've never tried it yet, however some of the guys that have done it say they wipe the emblems with a swab (Q Tip) or a toothpick dipped in thinner to get the paint off the emblems as soon as possible. I myself am going to give this method a try next month.

Not necessary.

You can clean the scripts any time.

As long as you have a good thinner, it doesn't matter when you do it.

 

Steve

 

Steve

Posted

You didn't wipe the paint off the foil emblems as yet? I've never tried it yet, however some of the guys that have done it say they wipe the emblems with a swab (Q Tip) or a toothpick dipped in thinner to get the paint off the emblems as soon as possible. I myself am going to give this method a try next month.

got them cleaned off this afternoon. Turned out pretty good using the pointed swabs Steve mentioned ...only i used laquer thinner.

 

Will snap off a picture later. Headed to daughters soccer game now

Posted

got them cleaned off this afternoon. Turned out pretty good using the pointed swabs Steve mentioned ...only i used laquer thinner.

 

Will snap off a picture later. Headed to daughters soccer game now

Hmmm, I'll have to remember that, and where can I get those pointed swabs? Thanks.

Posted (edited)

Nice! But note that the "Continental" scripts on the 1/1 are gold colored as well as some of the other trim pieces.

I wasnt 100% sure of the color, in some pics they look gold, in others they look chrome . Either way my plan is go over them with a yellow sharpie once the car is done.

I think the Mark V emblem on the rear quarter  is also gold correct ?

 

I think the emblems came out outstanding. My phone camera didn't want to focus in on it that close. but you can easily read them both . I'm stoked

 

left-rear.jpg

left-front.jpg

left-front.jpg

left-rear.jpg

Edited by gtx6970
Posted

I wasnt 100% sure of the color, in some pics they look gold, in others they look chrome . Either way my plan is go over them with a yellow sharpie once the car is done.

I think the Mark V emblem on the rear quarter  is also gold correct ?

 

I think the emblems came out outstanding. My phone camera didn't want to focus in on it that close. but you can easily read them both . I'm stoked

 

left-rear.jpg

left-front.jpg

left-front.jpg

left-rear.jpg

Glad they worked for you Bill!

Like I said, once you get this down, you'll never go back! :)

 

Steve

Posted

The car looks very good.  I am going to try doing that with scripts on my next build.   I have a special place in my heart for 1960 Lincolns.  My friend's parents when I was a kid had a couple of 1960 Lincoln four doors.   They were beautiful and huge.  i remember being in the back seat and looking at that massive dash.  Keep the good work up.  

Posted (edited)

Got clear on it this morning. and it really REALLY brought out the plum / purple tint to it. I'm super happy with it. Problem is my camera will not capture the color right either  indoors or out.

And a better picture of the scripts. This one turned out so much better than my previous attempts . Thanks to Mr Annual Steve Guthmiller for the tips

Now is goes into hiding to cure , for maybe a week or 2 before I handle it again. Till then time to paint another one.

 

 

 

front-left.jpg

rear-left.jpg

 

left-front.jpg

Edited by gtx6970
Posted

Looks great Bill.

Who cares if the color is not an exact match, it still looks terrific!

I have the same problems with getting good photos to show the true colors.

The best way that I've found is to get it out in the sunlight.

That always seems to really make the colors pop!

I built a '61 Bonneville a couple of years ago in "Richelieu Blue".

It looked kind of "ho-hum" in the house, but when I got it outside to take photos...........Yikes! it was enough to make your eyes bleed! :D

Keep up the good work!

 

Steve

Posted

I'm getting into this pretty late in the game, but for anyone who's interested, you CAN'T JUDGE colors by what you see on screens, or what you see in print. The only true way to check a color is with an actual PAINTED chip, or panel. Inks and color pictures can't capture the exact dyes or toners to get the color right in print and even digital photography isn't fool proof because it still relies on an existing color palette, not the actual pigments. So if you are happy with what you have, chances are it's extremely close if the paint formula was followed carefully by who mixed it.

Posted

I'm getting into this pretty late in the game, but for anyone who's interested, you CAN'T JUDGE colors by what you see on screens, or what you see in print. The only true way to check a color is with an actual PAINTED chip, or panel. Inks and color pictures can't capture the exact dyes or toners to get the color right in print and even digital photography isn't fool proof because it still relies on an existing color palette, not the actual pigments. So if you are happy with what you have, chances are it's extremely close if the paint formula was followed carefully by who mixed it.

Just curious why you didn't put the yellow on the emblems before burying them under clear? You could also use a transparent yellow on the pointed Q tips and get your gold effect, but you might find that a thin coat of transparent orange would look more like gold, in the case of gold anodized aluminum, in most cases it's done with a transparent orange and not allowed to achieve the true orange shade.

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