Aluminum Engines.....

[Len Geisler]

One of the things I'd like to improve on this year is my ability to replicate aluminum parts with paint finishes. Last year I wanted to improve my paint jobs, and I am quite happy with what I have acheived in that department. So I figure it is on to the cast metal finishes. the other reason is since my trip to Germany last month, I have been buying lots of European car models, something that I have typically had only a select few of, but now have been seeking our more interesting rides. My most recent is a new Audi A8, so I figure that using a new "metal finish" method would be a good thing to try on a car with an entire aluminum drive train, suspension included.

So, my hope is that some of you can share with me some of you methods of reproducing metal finishes, that will hopefully enlighten me and anypone else who reads this thread....

So thanks in advance, and let 'em ride.....

[CAL]

I use and like MM Metalizers with a ink wash over them.

[Zoom Zoom]

You really can't go very wrong with metalizer shades of aluminum; either Testors or Alclad work well. I also am very fond of Krylon 1403 dull aluminum (not easy to find, though Ace Hardware is where I usually find it); it's amazing stuff for coming from a spray can. It sprays in ultra-thin coats. You don't have to break out the airbrush if you don't want! I don't normally like Krylon paints for models, but this stuff is great. And as CAL mentions, use a black wash to bring out the depth/dimension of aluminum parts.

Metalizers are easy to use. Once you get accustomed to them, you'll want more shades to replicate other metals.

[rattlehead71]

Cal.... Forgive a newbs ignorance, but, can you explain an ink wash and what do you use? Please don't say "ink" and leave it at that.

[CAL]

An ink wash is just that, some thinned color over the part... its something that is hard to explain you just need to play with until you get the desired effect.

some people use different washes. I like to use inks. Windsor & Newton artist inks, and just some plain old repidograph refill ink and Isopropyl Alcohol for a thinning agent. I also use THE DETAILER washes. That's what it is called THE DETAILER, IIRC they are in Florida and carried by many hobby locations. Sometimes I use just semigloss Model Master (MM) acrylic black, but I always perfer inks. I think they are easier to work with and look better when dry.

Edited May 6, 2008 by CAL

[rattlehead71]

Thanx for the info Cal. I use the Detailer stuff already just hadn't heard of using ink for washes.

[Olle F]

I like MM Metalizer. It has smaller pigments than regular metallic paints, and produces a much more realistic metal finish. Just spray it on, buff it a bit and weather it with a wash or dry pastel powder. The only drawback is that it's thin and dries very quickly, so it's difficult to brush (airbrush is the recommended method). Humbrol has a similar product called Metalcote, and it's a bit thicker and easier to brush. You can apply heavier coats with this, which can be an advantage if you want to cover small scratches and imperfections.

BTW: I was in a hurry finishing a model a while ago, and discovered that you can actually dip paint small parts with MM Metalizer. Just glue it to a piece of sprue, dip it, shake off the excess and let it dry. The paint is so thin that it doesn't build up like other types of paints would.

[cruz]

I have had success using these little creams I found at a Michael's Craft store down my way. I used them on this Impala chassis and on the Model Car Garage Stromberg carbs. Very careful though, a little dab goes a long way. You can rub them with your fingers or w/ a small stiff brush. I used Model Master Stainless Steel Metallizer on the carbs first and them added the rub and buff gold color on. Finished w/ a wash of The Detailer...

[MikeMc]

I use the metalizers(lacquer) so my tamiya acrylics work as washes.

[Bainford]

I also like Model Master Metalisers. On the 1:1 car, individual components are made using different processes (cast, forged, fabricated, machined), and often produced by a variety of subcontractors using a variety of slightly different alloys. If you are building multi piece assemblies to be metalised (eg. suspension and drive train, engine and chassis components all made of aluminum), try painting each part a slightly different shade (MM aluminum plate, MM aluminum buffing [buffed], MM aluminum buffing [unbuffed], Alclad, Humbrol Metal Cote, Testors aluminum, etc). The slightly contrasting shades and textures will provide a realism that can not be achieved if all parts are painted from the same bottle. Also, try using MM Metaliser steel, stainless steel, magnesium in the proper places tp provide further contrast. Using this method along with the black washes mentioned above, and a little buffing in select areas, can produce outstanding results. Obviously, some experimentation is in order to achieve the desired effect, but you may be surprised how easy it is to get good results.

[Len Geisler]

Guys,

Thanks for all the input, I picke dup some of the suggest materials yesterday during my weekly visit to my LHS. Soon as I get something built and painted I will post some pics for critique....

Thanks again all.....

[monkeyclaw]

Len; This is another one of those questions that you will get a lot of different answers to...and it really depends on what TYPE of aluminum finish you wish to replicate....all of the above mentioned products work GREAT for doing polished aluminum finishes; and I will add how I do "cast" aluminum finish; for engine blocks; gearcases , Turbos and such... I begin with a spray cn product called "cast coat" , available at auto parts stores; it is used to replicate the cast finish on alternators and cast parts when you replace them in older cars....this is a "textured" spray paint; and 2 or 3 coats generally gives the correct texture for cast and sand cast parts....this finish will be way too bright though; so I then cover all of the cases with a mix of testor flat gray/ silver to give a more correct color finish to the overall part.....after that I come back with a bright "crome" silver; and do all of the raised ribs and machined edges to pick them out, as if they had been milled....the last step for me is to use a .001 tip inker; and ink in all of the deep recess area edges, to really give a nice 3-D look to the parts.......I hope this helps.........matt