Paint Methods

[Carl_M]

Hey guys,

So I picked up a couple kits, and am going to try and make some nice looking cars. (ought to be interesting )

Anyway, I am wondering how to paint a car? After reviewing a lot of the messages on this topic, it seems a lot people use air brushes and a paint box? Is that different than using an actual spray paint?

If so, are their any good spray guns you recommend for a novice? And how many coats do I put on the body, and how heavy do you lay it down? Also do you wait a long time between paintings, I know some paint feels dry, but I guess it really isn't dry?

Sorry for questions, and I am not expecting un-real results, but I am looking for some instruction, didn't think there was any better spot to go than here. The local hobby shop here suggest just using spray cans, but I am not sure.

Thanks for the help,

Carl

Edited May 19, 2008 by Carl_M

[Harry P.]

Man, what a loaded question!

Ask 100 guys the best way/technique/paint type/method to paint a model and you'll get 100 different answers.

There are SO many possible varieties of paint and types of paint, can vs. airbrush, enamel vs. lacquer/acrylic, etc., that you can argue this one back and forth forever.

Bottom line: there are MANY ways to get a good paint finish. It's all a matter of practice and finding the method that works best for you.

Some basic overall rules, as far as I'm concerned:

1. DON"T USE ENAMELS! That, to me, is the single most important rule of all. Enamels are finicky to apply, NEVER dry, attract dust and gunk because of the slow dry time, and are basically not worth the hassle. Depending on the brand, some enamels take weeks or even MONTHS to fully harden. Use either lacquers or acrylics, which dry in a tiny fraction of that time, and you'll be much happier. One caution: most (but not all) lacquer paints will attack styrene and cause "crazing" or tiny little cracks in the finish. If you use lacquers always use an appropriate primer on the bare plastic first. Acrylics, on the other hand, are safe on all plastics.

2. It IS possible to mix and match different brands and/or types of primer/color coat/clear coat if you have the experience and know what you're doing, but WHY would you put yourself in a situation where the results might be disaster? Stick with one brand and/or type of paint...that is, if you use a lacquer based primer, use lacquer color coat and lacquer clear. By "keeping it all in the family" you'll eliminate the possibility of a bad reaction between paint types or brands. Like I said, it's posssible to mix and match, and many "experts" do that, but I just don't see the reason to do so. KISS (keep it simple, stupid) is my motto. Especially so for beginners.

3. Lacquers and acrylics also spray better from the can, because they're thinner than enamels, so you get a better finish. You don't need an airbrush to get a good finish...show-winning paint jobs can be had right from the can. I especially like the spray pattern of Dupli-Color automotive paints. They have a different spray nozzle than your typical can of "model paint", and spray a nice, smooth, fine pattern. Of course, an airbrush with adjustable nozzle and pressure will give you more control, but there's no reason you can't get great results from a spray can...as long as you use lacquers or acrylics!

4. A polishing kit is the "great equalizer". No matter how you applied your paint-can or airbrush-a polishing kit used correctly can make just about ANY paint job look fantastic.

I'm sure you'll be getting a lot more input on this topic, including acrylic/lacquer hybrids, urethanes and other exotic (and potentially dangerous) types of paint, HOK paints, etc, as everyone has their own particular favorite that they swear by...but those 4 basic rules will take you a long way.

Edited May 19, 2008 by harrypri

[CAL]

Hey guys,

So I picked up a couple kits, and am going to try and make some nice looking cars. (ought to be interesting )

Anyway, I am wondering how to paint a car? After reviewing a lot of the messages on this topic, it seems a lot people use air brushes and a paint box? Is that different than using an actual spray paint?

If so, are their any good spray guns you recommend for a novice? And how many coats do I put on the body, and how heavy do you lay it down? Also do you wait a long time between paintings, I know some paint feels dry, but I guess it really isn't dry?

Sorry for questions, and I am not expecting un-real results, but I am looking for some instruction, didn't think there was any better spot to go than here. The local hobby shop here suggest just using spray cans, but I am not sure.

Thanks for the help,

Carl

Spray paint as in spray cans. Yes. It is different, the concept is the same, but with an airbrush you have a lot more control over how much paint is layed down. Spray cans tend to be to heavy (in terms of volume of paint); however, Tamiya sprays work out pretty well if you are not going to invest in an airbrush, compressor, and booth right away. If you don't want to make a big investment right away I would recommend Tamiya sprays.

There are several good airbrushes.

I used a Badger 200 and 150 for the last 15 years, but have switched to an Iwata, which IMHO is a better brush.

How you paint and lay down color depends on lots of factors: type of paint, color and primer(color), tanslucents, metalics and or solid colors.

Future floor wax over coat gives you that smooth glass like look without a lot of work. This can be applied a number of different ways including dipping the whole part in Future, brushing, or airbrushing. However, the best results come from airbrushing.

You just need to kind of jump in and decide how much investment you want to make and what colors you want to use for more specific direction.

[CAL]

Man, what a loaded question!

Ask 100 guys the best way/technique/paint type/method to paint a model and you'll get 100 different answers.

There are SO many possible varieties of paint and types of paint, can vs. airbrush, enamel vs. lacquer/acrylic, etc., that you can argue this one back and forth forever.

Bottom line: there are MANY ways to get a good paint finish. It's all a matter of practice and finding the method that works best for you.

Some basic overall rules, as far as I'm concerned:

1. DON"T USE ENAMELS! That, to me, is the single most important rule of all. Enamels are finicky to apply, NEVER dry, attract dust and gunk because of the slow dry time, and are basically not worth the hassle. Depending on the brand, some enamels take weeks or even MONTHS to fully harden. Use either lacquers or acrylics, which dry in a tiny fraction of that time, and you'll be much happier. One caution: most (but not all) lacquer paints will attack styrene and cause "crazing" or tiny little cracks in the finish. If you use lacquers always use an appropriate primer on the bare plastic first. Acrylics, on the other hand, are safe on all plastics.

2. It IS possible to mix and match different brands and/or types of primer/color coat/clear coat if you have the experience and know what you're doing, but WHY would you put yourself in a situation where the results might be disaster? Stick with one brand and/or type of paint...that is, if you use a lacquer based primer, use lacquer color coat and lacquer clear. By "keeping it all in the family" you'll eliminate the possibility of a bad reaction between paint types or brands. Like I said, it's posssible to mix and match, and many "experts" do that, but I just don't see the reason to do so. KISS (keep it simple, stupid) is my motto. Especially so for beginners.

3. Lacquers and acrylics also spray better from the can, because they're thinner than enamels, so you get a better finish. You don't need an airbrush to get a good finish...show-winning paint jobs can be had right from the can. I especially like the spray pattern of Dupli-Color automotive paints. They have a different spray nozzle than your typical can of "model paint", and spray a nice, smooth, fine pattern. Of course, an airbrush with adjustable nozzle and pressure will give you more control, but there's no reason you can't get great results from a spray can...as long as you use lacquers or acrylics!

4. A polishing kit is the "great equalizer". No matter how you applied your paint-can or airbrush-a polishing kit used correctly can make just about ANY paint job look fantastic.

I'm sure you'll be getting a lot more input on this topic, including acrylic/lacquer hybrids, urethanes and other exotic (and potentially dangerous) types of paint, HOK paints, etc, as everyone has their own particular favorite that they swear by...but those 4 basic rules will take you a long way.

Isn't that the truth...

Lacquer "crazing" is actually "Lacquer Checking" and is most commonly caused by a bad base or primer, second common cause is radical climate changes over time.

Enamels are somewhat difficult to work with because of there long gas out and drying times; however, I still get better finishes from Enamels than Acrylics. I aslo seem to have a lot more post work (sanding and polishing) acrylics than enamels. There are enamel work arounds, too, like dryers.

Again if you are just starting out and want to keep it inexpensive and easy the Tamiya system is a pretty good system.

A polishing kit does go a long way. Micro mesh and a some Novus and the old standards rubbing and polishing compounds. It is a lot more labor intensive than a good finish to start with, but you can correct a lot of paint problems this way.

FWIW the Cobra below is Tamiya spray (primer and color) with several coats of Future airbrushed over that.

Edited May 19, 2008 by CAL

[evilone]

ok as a getto painter here are my tools of the trade

a roll around coat rod $20.00

coat hangers (to hold the cars) 5 for $5.00

air brush maker paasche $25.00

rest of it is being cleaned

compressor $129.99

pricie but its a one time charge rather then the propellant cans

paint booth (desk free,boxes free from costco)

as for my paint

cans maker krylon $3.50-6.99

my metallic paints maker krylon 6.99

the flake i use maker HOK

my air brush paint maker HOK 6.99 per bottle

note krylon crystal clear is good for mixing flake and perils in

apply it between the third coat and the fifth coat (forth being the one for the flake

or if using peril make it the last coat befor clear

this is a good clear for krylon colors only

if you use it for HOK it simply sucks and it wont become glossy

time to dry overnight tthe next day it will be cured

distance of paint if using the cans

four inches to start from move back after each coat at the end you should be six inches away from the body

hope this helps bro

[Smart-Resins]

Hello. Well, it is more in what you want to spend and second what technique works best for you. I am a proffesional custom cabinet finisher. I use pressure pots and air just about every day to finish cabinets. At home I have a compressor and air brush as well. Hoenestly though I prefer to go to the auto parts store, buy dupli-color automotive paint and go. The primer will depend on you and what you want to do. I ofeten use high build formula and will give it say 2-3 coats with sanding inbetween. However if I use a different brand of color, I will use thier etching primer. Now for the color, 2-3 coats as well with sanding inbetween. The 3 good coats of clear without sanding. Then I polish it out at the end after letting it dry for a day. Now the etching primer then using Testors new one coat laquars also works well. Instead of one heavy coat like many say though, I do two decent coats, then 2-3 coats of the wet look clear from them as well. Finally polish out. Looks great. Also as stated in the previous one, I fill my sink up with hot water, let the cans sit for a spell, then shake the dickens out of them. I turn them upside down and shoot to make sure the head is clear before and after spraying. Before hitting the parts, I will spritz it to make sure the paint is coming out in a nice spray pattern. Thanks. Jody

[Carl_M]

Hey,

Thanks guys. I never knew their were so many ways to paint a car. Evilone, that coat hanger idea makes a lot of sense to me. I wondered was wondering how to get the car covered without flipping it over. Hanging it makes complete sense.

I printed off all the techniques, and I am going to go get a compressor soon. The guy at Riders said to just shoot it with a spray can...I am glad I asked the experts, thanks again.

Carl

[evilone]

Hey,

Thanks guys. I never knew their were so many ways to paint a car. Evilone, that coat hanger idea makes a lot of sense to me. I wondered was wondering how to get the car covered without flipping it over. Hanging it makes complete sense.

I printed off all the techniques, and I am going to go get a compressor soon. The guy at Riders said to just shoot it with a spray can...I am glad I asked the experts, thanks again.

Carl

ok i bend the hanger in half width ways

then form a L shape with it

i then squeeze the hanger to put the body on

then i hold it with the top towards the sky

spray it

then hang it

[Carl_M]

Evilone,

How heavy do you spray it, and how many layers do you put down? Also, I am curious to know the best way to do two tones. I kinda like the look of that, but is it complicated?

Carl

[evilone]

Evilone,

How heavy do you spray it, and how many layers do you put down? Also, I am curious to know the best way to do two tones. I kinda like the look of that, but is it complicated?

Carl

well its is determined by the paint type

my HOK paints i do 2-3 coats then like 4 coats of clear

krylon metallics i usually do 5 coats then 4 coats of clear

gloss 2 coats 4 coats of clear

as for the two tone i spary the light color first let it dry for a few hours,mask the area i want that color off(usually the top),press the tape down for full coverage,then i paint th rest of the car the darker color, let that sit for 1/2 hour,remove the tape,touch up the BLEEDERS

if i add a pinstripe i get 1/8 inch masking tape on both sides of where i want the line to be then get the color and hand paint it

its hard at first but when you get use to it it becomes easy

[Carl_M]

Evilone,

Got ya, I'm going to give it a try. Thanks for all the help.

Carl

[abedooley]

Im in the same boat as Carl.. those are some great tips!! Can anyone make a list and where to find most of the stuff you guys mentioned?? I know some of it is pretty self explanitory, I'm mostly interested in more info about the sanding and polishing parts.. I wish I could pull off the stuff you guys do!!! HOW WICKED IS THIS SITE??? I just wish I would have landed on it before I started painting my '70 Challenger!! Its alright though, I've got a '70 Dodge Daytona I'm gonna do next!!